wss2

Illustrated Project # WSS2

Repairing & Reupholstering A Dinning Room Chair

Fig.1 - This chair has been worked on so many times,I can not take it apart without damaging the joints,that are nailed,so I will have to clamp it as tight as possible and apply glue blocks.

Fig.2 - As you can see below someone has driven nails into all the joints.

Fig.3 - An other shot of the joints nailed.The Illustration also shows the chair clamped using a web clamp plus a pipe clamp.

Fig.4 - The springs will need to be retied.

Fig.6 - An other close up showing the joints nailed.

Fig.7 - A close up showing the wood split,caused by nailing with out pre drilling first.

Fig.7 - These are the reinforcing corner blocks that I made that will be installed.

Fig.8 - Shows the blocks glued in place.Extra care was taken to make sure that the blocks fit perfectly.

Fig.9 - A close up of a corner block

Fig.- 10 Notice the arrow shown on the block.This indicates where a screw will be installed through the blocks and into the legs of the chair.

Fig.11 - Here i'm pre drilling a hole through the block and 3/4 of the way into the legs.

Fig.12 - An other angle.

Fig.13 - Nailing the ends of the blocks.

Fig.14 - I have pre drilled and I will be installing pan head screws through the blocks and into the sides of the chair.

Fig.15 - I am all done with the corner blocks.Now I am starting to apply new webbing.Starting from the center front to back.Notice the nails are not installed in a straight line,but stagered,so I won't split the wood.

Fig.16. - A close up of the web stretching tool I use.

Fig.17. - The webbing is being stretched and nailed in place.

Fig.18 - The webbing is cut and will be folded over and nailed again.

Fig.19. - Here the webbing is shown folded over and ready to be nailed.

Fig.20. - The webbing is folded over and nailed.

Fig.21 - Shows two band of webbing nailed in place.

Fig.22 - The web stretching tool is placed on the edge of the frame and the webbing is placed over the teeth and pulled tight and held there while I nail the webbing in place.

Fig.23 - Close up of the completed webbing.

Fig.24 - Webbing comes in rolls.

Fig.25 - Shot of my tack hammer and the #12 tacks used to nail the webbing.

Fig.26 - Close up of the stretching tool.

Fig.27 - Webbing is completed

Fig.28 - Drawing showing side view of the chair seat indicating the recess where you tack on the fabric.

Fig.29 - Fabric is centered and tacked on all four centers.You then work out from your centers toward your corners,pulling and fitting as you go.Stopping about two to four inches from your corners.

Fig.30 - This is the back of the chair.The fabric is cut from the outside toward the inside of the back corner.Make this cut very carfully.Do Not cut right to the edge but stay about a inch away and then adjust your fit till it is perfect,then make your final cuts,a little at a time.

Fig.31. - Showing the front left corner fold.Note: Dry fit till your satisfied then tack it.DO NOT cut off any excess yet.

Fig.32. - The left back corner fitted,BUT not tacked YET.

Fig.33 - The right back corner fitted,BUT NOT tacked YET. This is just a dry fit.

Fig.34 - The fabric being fitted and stappled.Notice I am working towards the corner.

Fig.35.- The fabric is all stapled.Pull the excess up and reach in between with a single edge razor blade and cut off all excess.

Fig.36 - Excess being removed.

Fig.37. - Trim off all loose treads.

Fig.38. - The top of this chair has the fabric wrapped right around the front and back all in one piece.Start by centering the fabric on the back and also seat. Center and tack both front bottom and back bottom.Smooth out all excess fabric as you go.Now place tacks at the centers of both front sides and back sides,and work towards the corners,smoothing out all excess fabric as you work.When you get to the top,you will need to make a couple of pleats.Fold your pleats towards the back of the chair.This will make them less visible.

Fig.39. - Shot of the back of the chair.

Fig.40 - Shot of the two pleats on the top right side of the chair.Note: you can just about see them.

Fig.41 - The rubber end of my web stretching tool.

Fig.42 - The chair is almost done.Next step is tying the webbing to the springs.

Fig.43 - These are called Hog Ring Pliers.This is what I use to fasten the springs to the webbing.There are several techniques that accomplish the same results.It is a matter of preference.

Fig.44 - The pliers loaded with a hog ring ready to be inserted.

Fig.45. - The springs are centered under the two over lapping webbing,and the hog ring fastener is positioned catching both the spring underneath and both strips of webbing.one quick squeeze and it's done.

Fig.46. - Close up of the springs held in position with hog rings.One alternative would be to tie the springs with a curved needle and twine.This tying method is very time consuming and it doesn't last as long.

Fig.47 - Here the dust cover or cambric is applied completing the bottom of the chair. Cambric comes in rolls. Just cut off what you need plus a few inches. Staple all centers first, and work toward the corners. Trim your corners short,recut to fit. Fold your cambric under and about 1/8 to 1/4 of an inch from the edge of the chair frame. Pull your cambric smooth as you work. Place your staples about 1 1/2 inches apart. It doesn't take many staples to hold the cambric.

Fig.48 - Next the gimp will be applied,adding the finishing touches,by concealing the rough cut fabric edges.Gimp can be attached using gimp tacks,or staples or hot glue.I prefere to use hot glue,because it is much faster,and easier too. You can order gimp by the feet or yard or purchase a complete card,which is how I purchase it. It comes in many different colors,and designs.The following Illustration are some examples of what is available.

Fig.49

To become a paid Subscriber to my Online Clinic click link below.