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The Furniture Doctor Newsletter
August/4/2001
In this issue I will be talking about filling in defects, and the different
techniques are that available.
#1- Wax fill in sticks - Good for scratches, and small dings, dents or nicks.
For scratches just rub across the scratch with the stick till it's full.
Wipe off the excess with a cloth.
For dings, dents or nicks, you can also try rubbing across the defect.
Or you may have to melt some into the defect with a burning tool, melting enough
to fill just above the surface, then shaving the excess off with a cabinet
scraper, or sandpaper.
Note if working with a finished piece, protect the surface with balm,
or paint thinner.
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#2- Lacquer sticks - Or Burn-in sticks - These have to be melted into
the defect. The surfaces need to be protected with balm also, plus
the excess need to be removed with the burn in tool.
This technique is a little more difficult to master.
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#3- Wood putty - This technique is easier to use, but harder to finish.
You can either use as is, apply it to the defect, sand down, then stain
to match.
Or color the putty first then apply.
You can use regular stain, or aniline dye to add color.
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#4 - Saw dust and white glue.
Sand in a inconspicuous area just to gather excess saw dust, and
mix in some glue, and use this as a filler.
Note;- Old timers have been using this technique for years.
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#5 - Boil up the defect with steam.
This technique will bring up the defect some times all the way back,
but not always !!!
How it's done !!
Some people place a wet cloth over the defect and run an iron
over it. Check it often for results.
Some times you can just drop water into the defect and place
the tip of a soldering gun into the defect, always making sure
to have water present on the defected area, till the defect rises
to the surface. DO
NOT LET IT DRY OUT.!!!!!
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#6 - Hot Glue Gun.
YES ! You read it right !!
I discovered this technique by curiosity.
I just wanted to try it to see if it would work.
Last week I was working on a dresser top, that had a missing corner that
I had to rebuild about 1/8 inch deep by three inches long of missing wood.
Corners can be difficult to rebuild using other methods.
I glued a straight edge on both sides, and applied oil so the hot glue
would not stick.
Next I applied hot glue to the defect and let it cool off.
Next I removed the straight edges, and applied masking tape to the surrounding
finish area to protect the finish.
Next I started to reshape the hot glue, using a sharp knife, to remove
most of the excess.
Next I switched to some # 80 grit sand paper and removed the masking tape
and sanded the hot glue along with the rest of the molded edge of the
dresser top edge to draw some of the saw dust into the hot glue defected
area.
This automatically added or dragged color to the hot glued area, and blended
the hot glued damaged area perfectly.
__________________________________________________________________________
#7 - Sometimes you can cut out the damaged area, and replace it with new
wood of the same species. Especially of corners or edges of dresser tops.
Then you can reshape it and stain it to match.
This technique takes longer to master.
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#8 - Surfaces - Some times you can use a plug cutter, to drill out a small
defect, and insert a plug, then plan off and stain to match.
Using this technique you would choose a wood as close to possible to matching
the color and grain of the defected area.
Plus you would use the surface of the wood to drill your new replacement plugs.
_______________________________________________________________________________
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