Refinishers Diary
THE FURNITURE DOCTOR'S
Re finishers Diary
copyright 2000 Philip M Beaudet
Furniture Refinishing
Rules/Hints/and Tricks
of the trade
Plus Special Reports
Part 1
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Rule # 1
Make sure the weather is in your favor
If your working out side.
Don't work in direct sunlight.
Humidity should be low.
No wind, or very little wind.
Ideal Temperature
should be 65 to 75 degrees inside or outside.
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Rule #2
If your working inside or out side.
Use tarp to protect grass, and your
work area, and to make clean up easier.
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Rule # 2
Working inside.
Work with plenty of light.
You must be able to see what your doing.
Over head light, and portable light source is necessary.
Keep moving portable light to the point where you
can see what your doing.
OR !! - Place your work on a large turntable.
and keep moving your turntable till the area that
your working on is clearly visible.
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Rule # 3
Make sure your work area is CLEAN before you start.
Especially- Before you apply your finish coats.
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Rule # 4
Read ALL directions on ALL containers carefully.
If there are any questions !!
Get the answers from your supplier.
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Rule # 5
Take safety precautions.
Wear protective clothing,respirators,safety glasses,
and gloves.
Use an explosion proof fan.
DON'T breath the fumes.
Take breaks often, step out side to get away for a while.
Allow for PLENTY of cross ventilation.
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Rule # 6
If you are applying your finish with a brush,
FLAG your brush before using to remove
any loose bristles.
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Rule # 7
Buy the best finish brush you can afford.
It will reward you in the long run.
Talk with your supplier, that is what he is there for.
The wrong brush choice will work against you.
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Rule # 8
Choosing a stripping brush.
I would favor a cheap throw away natural bristle brush,
over a nylon bristle brush.
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Rule # 9
Don't use old out dated containers of finish.
Why take a chance!!
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Rule # 10
When buying new stains or finishes, WRITE on the containers
the purchase date.
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Rule # 11
Purchase ALL your stain and finishes from the same supplier
to make sure that they are compatibly with each other.
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Rule # 12
Some stains and finishes need to be stirred often.
SO !! Be sure to check it out with your supplier.
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Rule # 13
With some finishes, you can't use shellac as a sealer coat.
SO !!! Check it out with your supplier.
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Rule # 14
Staining
When you are working with a wipe on stain.
YOU NEED TO WIPE IT OFF !!!
You don't leave it on with out wiping it off
just because you like the looks of it.
If you don't wipe it off enough !! Your finish
may not dry properly.
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Rule # 15
Some finishes can be used as a sealer coat.
Some can't.
check it out with your supplier.
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Rule # 16
Staining Pine.
You may need to apply a wood conditioner before staining.
Check it out with your supplier.
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Rule # 17
Air is the enemy of containers of finish.
Get rid of the air and your used container of finish
will last longer.
TIP: I drop marbles into my used container of finish or stain
till the finish level reaches the top of the container
then I put on the cap.
It works for me !!!
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Rule # 18
Have your container of stripper,stain,or finish out of harms
way at ALL TIMES !!
I prefer to have it ahead of me, where I can see it.
I would place it on a separate table at a comfortable height.
TIP:- I have used old heavy glass pie plates, to put all my
stripper,stain,and finish in.
I never have to worry about spilling anything.
When your all done, just pour the unused portion back
into their original containers.
Clean the glass pie plate good, and you end up with no
mess or accidents.
It works for me !!!
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Rule # 19
When your all done using your container of stain, or finish
take the time to insure that the cover is on and sealed.
TIP:- If I am taken a break I sometimes place a piece of
plastic wrap over the top of the container just to keep
the air out.
TIP:- When I am all done for the day, I usually place a cloth
over the top of the container and step on it to seal the
top to the container.
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Rule # 20
Work at a comfortable height.
Save your back.
If you don't have use of a turn table! Make one.
I'm sure you will find other uses for it, after
your done with your refinishing projects.
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Rule # 21
Work area
Give yourself plenty of room to walk around your worktable.
You don't need to be bumping into things, or having accidents.
I would give myself at lease four feet clearance all around
my worktable.
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Rule # 22
Applying your stripper
Apply FULL WET coats. And DON'T try to spread you stripper
out to far.
A full brush will go about a square foot.
Better to over kill then to skimp.
You are not going to get your piece stripped completely
with just one application of stripper.
Usually- It takes me three to five applications of stripper
to completely strip a piece of furniture.
Do one small section at a time, and catch your drips.
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Rule # 23
When stripping.
Clean your area often.
You don't want to be tracking the stripper all over the place.
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Rule # 24
If your working with nonflammable materials, and I hope you are!!
Place a fan in front of the piece your working on to direct
the fumes away from you, all you need is a slow speed.
Place the fan in or near a window in there is one available.
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Rule # 25
Tools to use to remove the old finish.
The first coat of old finish will be a heavy one, so
on flat areas, I would use a cabinet scraper or new putty
knife that has had it's edges rounded over.
File and burnish the edges, make sure that there are NO BURRS
on the edges.
Use a light touch, when removing the old finish.
TIP:- If you feel any resistance, then the old finish is not
ready to be removed.
In this case,- But on more stripper.
Leave the stripper on long enough to do it's job.
The old finish should come off easily, with little resistance.
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Rule # 26
Second application of stripper.
The first coat of stripper should of removed a good portion
of the old finish.
After you have applied a heavy second coat of stripper,
I would use # 2 steel wool, and work it into loosen up any
stubborn finish.
Again- If there is any resistance, Put on more stripper.
Do a small section at a time.
Wipe up with a clean piece of steel wool or dry cloth.
Note:- You may be lucky and get all the old finish off
with only two applications of stripper.
If this is the case- You can skip the third coat of stripper.
NOTE:- I most all ways never use only two applications
of stripper. And when I did, I sometimes ran into problems.
So I just got into the habit of applying at lease three
coats of stripper.
Check your work for shiny areas left on the wood.
This is a sign of old finish that is still left on the wood.
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Rule # 27
Third coat of stripper- (If needed)
Put your stripper on as before.
Work your steel wool into the wood as before.
NOTE:- Now there shouldn't be any resistance felt when
removing the old remaining left on finish.
If this is the case!!
Wipe up the wood with cloths soaked in DENATURED ALCOHOL.
Repeat till wood is squeaky clean.
On any carved or other fancy areas, work a old toothbrush
into the wood.
Repeat till all tiny areas are cleaned.
Clean toothbrush by wiping a steel brush against the
bristles of the toothbrush.
Watch your eyes!!!
Your piece should now be clean!!
NOTE:- This is the time to do all your repairs.
Fix those nicks,scratches,add missing parts,etc.
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Rule #28
One step further
At this point I usually go one step further.
I like to flood the piece with paint thinner, and
wipe up with clean rags.
This I feel helps to get rid of any contamination that
may be left on the wood.
I also like to run a cabinet scraper over the wood after it's dry
to detect any finish that I can't see.
It works for me.
I spend a lot of extra time checking for contamination
and making absolutely sure the piece is clean before
I move on to the next step.
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Rule # 29
Never shake a container of finish.
This causes bubbles, which may be transferred to your wood.
In stead - Stir the finish slowly.
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Rule # 30
Let your stripped piece dry long enough before going further.
How Long?? Depends on the weather.
Better safe then sorry!!!
Time can be from one day to a week.
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Rule # 31
Sanding
Sand till it FEELS smooth.
Don't go by what it looks like!!! Go by what it feels like.
I would use a 100 / 150 open grit sandpaper.
Clean sandpaper often, or you may scratch the wood.
It shouldn't take much sanding or pressure to get it smooth
You could even use a cabinet scraper!! Just be careful.
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Rule # 32
Use a tack cloth to pick up any dust left on your piece
before applying stain.
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Rule # 33
When staining!! Use your fan to direct fumes away from you.
Place the fan in or near a window in front of the piece you
are working on. Set the fan on a slow speed.
Note:- If your work area is not clean, your fan will draw
dirt and dust on to your piece.
Again-Follow safety precautions,
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Rule # 34
Staining
Follow manufactures directions
TIP:- I apply the stain with a throw away natural bristle brush.
Tip:- Don't forget to stir the stain often.
TIP:- Use a dry brush to draw stain out of inside corners
and fancy carvings.
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Rule # 35
Allow proper drying time after staining before applying finish.
Test - By wiping it down with a clean dry cloth.
If no color comes off on your cloth! It's dry. And ready.
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Rule # 36
Sealer coat
Check with manufacture to determine if it is required.
If needed- Put on a thin coat.
Sand lightly
Tack it - To remove dust
Allow proper drying time before proceeding to next step.
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Rule # 37
Finish coats
Follow manufactures directions.
You may need to apply two to four coats, depending on product.
TIP:-Don't forget to flag your brush before using!!
TIP:- Don't forget to stir often.
TIP:- Don't shake the can.
TIP:- Apply THIN coats.
TIP:- Ask the supplier if you can box the finish on.
TIP:- Allow proper drying time, between coats.
TIP:-Sand and tack between coats.
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Rule # 38
After the last finish coat is applied, don't touch it.
Let it set for a day or two to let the finish cure properly.
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Rule # 39
Chairs
Re glue chair joints before stripping.
Wipe up all excess glue before it dries.
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Rule # 40
Penetrating stain
Before applying penetrating stain, put on a coat of wood conditioner.
The wood conditioner will keep the penetrating stain from going
into the wood to fast, giving you enough time to apply the penetrating
stain properly.
This holds especially true when working with pine.
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Rule # 41
Shelf life of glue.
Check out the date on the container.
The average shelf life of glue is one year.
If you don't do a lot of gluing! purchase a small bottle.
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Rule # 42
Hot Glue (Sticks)
Do not use on furniture joints.
Besides the glue setting up to fast, the joint won't hold up.
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Rule # 43
Before staining a stripped piece, that your trying to match
to a finished piece, TEST your stain in a inconspicuous spot.
Keep testing till you get a color match.
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Rule # 44
After finishing your piece of furniture,
Record the stain and finish used, so if you ever need to do any
touch up you will have the correct information.
File in a safe place.
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Rule # 45
Store ALL your stripping and finishing supplies in a
fire proof metal cabinet, and lock it.
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Rule # 46
Wait at lease a week before using furniture that has
been refinished.
Finishes have different cure times.
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Rule # 47
Sanding
Clean your sand paper and your work often.
Clogged sand paper may scratch your work.
Work that is not cleaned will stop your sand paper
from doing it's job.
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Rule # 48
Belt sanders
Belt sanders have no place in refinishing furniture.
So DON'T use them.
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Rule # 49
Mark ALL joints
When removing drawers, NUMBER them.
Same size drawers are not always interchangeable.
Same rule applies for chairs,or anything else.
NUMBER THEM!!
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Rule # 50
Assembling chairs, etc.
ALWAYS-Work on a COMPLETELY FLAT surface.
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Rule # 51
Use the proper glue.
Do Not use elmers white glue that is used for paper,
it is not strong enough.
I would use Franklin or Tite bond brands.
You don't want to use a fast set glue either.
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Rule # 52
Applying your finish.
Stir your finish in the can,DO NOT shake the can.
Shaking the can will create bubbles that may be transferred to the wood
creating a lot of extra sanding time.
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Rule # 53
Do not mix different brand stains or finishes.
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Rule # 54
Seal ALL end grains before applying your stain.
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Rule # 55
Do sand between finish coats.
Most manufactures advise it.
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Rule # 56
Unless advised differently by manufacture,Apply THIN coats of finish.
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Rule # 57
Do clean your wood completely,before applying your stain and finish.
Use only clean cotton lint free cloths.
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Rule # 58
After cleansing your wood,and before applying your stain
wipe down with a clean lint free cloth with a little denatured
alcohol on it.
This will make your wood squeaky clean.
Wait a few minutes,then proceed to apply your stain.
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Rule # 59
Wait long enough for your stain and finish coats to dry properly.
I would double the time that is recommended by the manufacture.
This is one of the main reasons why your finish is tacky.
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Rule # 60
Paint thinner use.
So you stripped your piece and your ready to apply your stain
BUT !! Is it really ready for the stain??
Are you sure that you removed ALL the old finish??
Are you sure that you removed ALL the stripper??
Here is one of the trade secrets that I use to determine if
the piece is REALLY ready to stain or finish.
Wipe the piece down with a cloth saturated with Paint Thinner.
If there is any finish left on the piece it will reveal itself.
PLUS - The paint thinner will remove any wax, silicon, dirt or other contamination that you
other contamination that you missed.
Wax and silicon left on the piece is NOT that detectable to the eye.
Apply the paint thinner several times,EACH time using a new clean cloth.
A further wash with DENATURED ALCOHOL to help dry the piece and your
ready for the stain or finish coats.
This might seem like a over kill,BUT- I think it's necessary.
It's better to be safe then sorry !!!!
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Rule # 61
Plant Stands and water damage
Do use coasters,or plate glass under your plants,
and glue on some felt spacers for air circulation
between the finish and glass,
to prevent water marks,and severe water damage.
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Rule # 62
The following information is a sample article from my guide
to buying furniture
Beds:
Note: If your in the market for a new bed,consider buying
one that comes with a metal rail support system.
Many times I have had customers bring in beds that were
broken where the rails fit into the head board and foot boards.
I use to repair them,but now I don't bother with these types
of repairs,Because beds take a lot of abuse,and the repairs just
don't last.
So I Tell all my customers to consider replacing the present support
system with a metal rail system.
They come adjustable and with wheels, and have installation plates
where you can install your head board and foot board to.
If you shim your head board and foot board up off the floor a little
all the stress will be on the support system only.
The good part about this metal rail system is,it should last a long time.
I have had one for over 20 years,and never had a problem.
Where do you get them?
Call your local bedding supply house or any where that sell furniture.
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Hints and tricks of the trade
# 63
Sticky draws!!
I have tried soap,to make the draws slide easier,BUT I find candle wax
to work much better.
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# 63
Candle wax also works better then soap when driving in screws.
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# 64
Loose joints!!
I am sure that you have seen those adds that claim to work on loose joint!
Chair Lock is one of the products that I am referring to.
Well!!!!!! It doesn't work for me.
Some times there just isn't any quick fixes.
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# 65
Many people love to wax their furniture.
Well it does offer some protection BUT!
You should remove the wax every so often,or else your just creating problems
down the road.
Personally I don't believe in waxing furniture,BUT!!
If you are one that loves to wax your furniture I would recommend using
FORMSBE Products.I think it's probable one of the safest products available.
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# 66
Furniture made of particle board with a plastic laminate top!!!
When your putting together this type of furniture DO NOT use a drill.
Use a screw driver,and drive your screws in slowly,OR you may risk
driving the screws right through your top.
Driving the screws by hand offers you better control.
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# 67
Storing files
Don't just throw them in a draw,cut up some old water hose,and place them
in these to keep them working right.If you have to,cut the hose length wise
to make them fit.
You can do the same thing with your wood chisels.
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# 68
Here is a tip on stripping/refinishing chairs or tables or any else
that has legs.
Drive a nail at the bottom of the legs,to keep them up and away from
the work table.OR you could use screws!!
Remember to pre-drill first!! I you use screws,or if there is no hole
there to begin with.
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# 69
Have you tried the new Gorilla Glue??
They advertise it to be the toughest glue on planet earth.
Well!! To each his own!!
I tried it and found it to be hard to clean up.
I guess it takes some getting used to.
$15.00 for an 8 once bottle is pretty high.
I use it mostly for joints that don't show.
If you use it! Let me know what you think of it!!
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# 70
Here is a tip on installing pressed cane.
After getting the cane into the grove,I cut it off right in the grove.
Cut it about a 32 nd of a inch from the surface.
Use a new blade in your utility knife.
Blow out the grove to remove any small pieces of cane that may of
landed in the grove,apply your (WHITE GLUE) in the grove,
and install your spline.
I use white glue because it dries clear.
================================================
# 71
Removing Moth ball odor
#1-From Clothes-Air them out side.
Wash them,ADD Vanilla Extract to wash
Add Hydrogen peroxide to wash
===============================================
#2-From the home- Open all windows leave open for
as long as possible.
Purchase a ozone generator/air purification system.
Com-air would be a good choice.And it would be mu choice.
Place the generator in one closet,or room at a time,leave it there
till results are obtained.
The generator will also remove other odors as well,
like smoke,chemical,cooking odor,etc.
NOTE:- I have been using one in my shop for years,and it works for me.
I also have one in the house,and I can tell you from experience
that it removed burnt toast odor.
Once the wife tried to clean the oven,and it left one strong odor.
The generator removed the odor in ten minutes.
==============================================================
# 72
When I am spraying I add vanilla extract to the spray,and it smells
more like a bakery in here then a refinishing shop.
With out the vanilla extract the smell in here,and out side would be
very strong.
===================================================================
# 73
Hydrogen peroxide- I use it as a soak,to clean all my fruit,as well as
bath in it from time to time.
And it is a safer bleach to use then clorox,and it will remove some
odors.
Punch (Hydrogen peroxide) in on your computer,and check it out.
Hey!! It works for me,and I have been doing it for years.
=====================================================================
# 74
Restoring cedar closets.
If your closets no longer smell like one,lightly sand it's surfaces.
Sanding opens the wood's pores and restores cedar odor.
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# 75
Prevent paint spatter.
When replacing the lid on a can of paint,drape a cloth over the lid,
then hammer the lid back on,or step up on it.
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# 76
Painting draw knobs.
Remove them from the dresser and set them screw end down into empty
soda bottles.
Spray paint,or paint with brush.
No missed spots or painted fingers.
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# 77
Removing paint on clothes.
Use Pine-sol or any pine base cleaner on clothes spotted with
dried-on latex enamel paint.
Apply it directly to each spot,then wash.
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# 78-A
Removing Odors , Mildew & Mold from wood.
Wash the wood one or more times with a solution of
2/3 cup of trisodium phosphate
1/3 cup of detergent
1 quart of house hold bleach
Enough water to make a gallon
Caution; Wear rubber gloves
78-B
Sometimes cleaning with trisodium just isn't enough especially on raw wood,
such as the insides of draws.or carcass interiers.
In this case you should seal ALL unfinished wood areas with shellac.
This should trap the odors,thus eliminating them.
78-C
Try lining your draw interiors with cedar.
Cedar now is available in 4x8 sheets.1/4 inch thick.
78-D
An O-Zone generator will also remove odors.
Place a large drop cloth over the dresser with the draws removed and placed
along side the dresser.
Place the O-Zone generator inside the covered area and leave the
generator on for a day or two.
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# 79
When moving furniture around,(especially large pieces) make sure that all
four legs touch the floor at the same time.
This prevents the frame from twisting,which weakens wood and joints.
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# 80
If your wooden chairs are in a room with wax floors,scrape off the bottoms
of the chairs feet and apply wax to the bottoms,so that they will
slide easily along the floor.
This protects both the chair and the floor.
Check the bottom of the chair's feet every so often.
Clean off dirt with paint thinner,and apply more wax.
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# 81
Ever seen a computer charge?
If the weather is cold and dry,you can build up a charge of static
electricity just by walking around,especially on carpets.
A good shot of static electricity to your computer can cause it to crash.
So before you begin work,touch a door knob or metal cabinet-anything
metal will release the charge.
If static is a serious problem,consider in investing in a special
desk or floor mats that control static.
These are available from your computer stores or from mail order
computer supply companies.
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# 82
When you stop working on your computer for a few hours,go ahead and
turn it off,even if you plan to return to it later in the day.
The heat build up from leaving it on will do more harm then the act of
turning the machine off and then on again.
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# 83
Printer help...
If you want your printer to last,be sure to use good quality paper
made for computers.
Cheaper paper made for copy machines tends to shed more dust,
which can shorten the printer's life.
Finer papers with a high rag content also sheds a lot of dust.
Save these to use with your fountain pen.
********************************************************************
# 84
Nail polish spilt on table.
Here are your options:
#1- You can hire a touch-up pro.to touch-up the spot.
If he's any good he should do a good job of repairing the
missing finish.
This should cost you anywhere from $25.00 to $50.00.
========================================================
#2- You can have the top refinished by a pro.
Most re finishers charge from $20.00 to $30.00 a square foot.
If you can figure out the square feet,X what ever they charge,
you would know what they would charge you for the job.
=========================================================
#3-You could touch it up your self.
Touch-up is a trade by it's self.
It's not an easy thing to do,without guidance of some type.
The suggestion I am about to give you for touch-up
is NOT what a pro would use.BUT it will give you results.
To do your own touch-up....Purchase a small can of OIL STAIN
as close to the color of your table as possible.
DON'T shake the can......Wrap a cloth around your finger and tap
it into the damaged area.
Repeat till satisfied results are obtained.
NOTE: - If you can't get the spot dark enough!
Stick a screw driver or small thin stick down
to the bottom of the can to pull up the thick
pigments.
Use this to tap into the damage area.
NOTE:- You may have to play around with this till
you get satisfactory results.
If you don't like the results!! Wipe it off and
start over again.
When you are satisfied with the repair job!!
Cut a hole in a newspaper the size of the damaged area
and lay over the table,exposing just the damaged area.
and tape the newspaper to the table.Also place weights
around the cut out,to hold the news paper from lifting
when your spraying.
With a spray can of shellac,lightly spray across the area.
Use light spray ONLY.
Lift newspaper to check results.
Repeat spray if needed.
Try to match the sheen of the table.
more info. on
restoring furniture
==========================================================
#4- Have a piece of PLATE GLASS cut to fit your table.
Plate glass comes clear and with different color tints.
If you want to try to hide the defected area,choose the
darkest tint.
If you want to still be able to see the grain of the
wood,choose the clear glass.
NOTE:- Some people choose to put pictures of their loved
ones under the glass,or even colorful leaves,or what ever
you choose.
Using the glass solution, you have extra options.
If you choose to put pictures or what ever under the glass!!!
You don't even have to touch up the damaged area.
Or!!!!! If you choose to touch up the damaged area,and it just
doesn't look right,You can conceal it by using tinted glass.
=============================================================
# 85
Here is a tip on re gluing chairs.
Where do you start?
I Start with the bottom.
Take the chair,and place it on a table up side down.
Clamp the chair to the table.
Make your repairs,if any!
Glue your legs.
Let the glue dry.
Take the clamp off.
And your half done.
Now!! use a web clamp and clamp the chair up right
to the table and do the top!!
It works for me!!!
more
info.
******************************************************
# 86
Cleaning Black Lacquer Furniture.
Try a solution of strong tea.
Buff with a clean cloth.
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# 87
Chair legs wobble!!
Try adding a spacer under the glides.
You could use tape,or even a washer.
Plug the hole with a tooth pick and
drive the chair glide back in.
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# 88
Paint thinner as an all around cleaner?
Yes!! I use it all the time.
It will remove dirt and wax build up.
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# 89
Denatured alcohol - What is it good for !!
Well I use it for many reasons.
For one thing ! I use it to remove water marks.
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# 90
Stripping Problem !!!
How do you clean out the holes in draws that the screws
go through to hold the knob or pulls ?
I use pipe cleaners.
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# 91
How to make your container of finish last longer!!!
Try dropping marbles in,till the finish comes to the
top on the container,then go ahead and put the top on.
This will get rid of all the air.
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# 92
Here is a tip for heavy smokers!!!
Since I am a heavy smoker,I tried many ways to remove
smoke odor from my shop.
I spilt some vinegar by accident and noticed that
I couldn't detect any smoke odor.SO!!!!!!
I pour some vinegar in a shallow container and place it
out of the way, and so far it works.
There probably other ways to remove smoke odors
If you know of any !! Let me know...
I'm always trying different things.
******************************************************
# 93
Speaking of odors !!
I use vanilla extract in my finish when I spray.
Just a few drops will do it.
Hey ! It works !!
And it doesn't harm the finish.
AND- I don't get any complaints from the neighbors
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# 94
Worn out screw holes.
Instead of putting in a larger size screw!
Try applying a few drops of glue and packing
the hole with thin hard wood veneer or tooth picks.
Fill the over size hole completely.
Apply a few drops of glue to the back of the knob
and drive the screw in.
Note: Make sure the back of the knob is clean.
Note: Don't use a lot of glue.
***************************************************************
# 95
Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets.
Take out everything in your cabinets and pack in
boxes and store as far away from the kitchen as possible.
Wait at least a day or two before putting everything
back into your cabinets.
Your other option is to wash everything before using.
Also open all windows while you are applying your finish.
And keep them open at least two days after your all done
applying your finish.
click
here for more info.
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# 96
Bubbled Veneer!
Place a damp cloth over the area
Iron it down with a hot iron.
Place a weight on the damage area leave it on for a half hour.
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# 97
Cleaning brass
Apply a thin coat of window cleaner with a soft cloth,
let it dry and rub lightly to polish.
Brass will be tarnish free for months.
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# 98
What to do when your tools are rusty.
Soak them in kerosene and clean them with emery cloth.
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# 99
Making screws go into wood more easily
Put a little oil on the end of the screw.
It will go in more smoothly.
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# 100
Got scratches on your maple furniture???
Mix some denatured alcohol and iodine,half and half.
On large areas put it on with a piece of cotton
On small areas use a fine artist brush.
Let it dry.
Wax it.
Then buff it.
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# 101
Cleaning Chrome
Dust a damp cloth with baking soda and rub over the chrome.
Polish with a dry soft cloth.
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# 102
Get glasses clean without streaks
If your glasses get dirty,you can clean them off without streaks by
putting a drop or two of vinegar
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# 103
Clean your enamelware
Use a paste of salt and vinegar.
******************************************************************
Make sure you understand all instructions before you start.
If you have questions,seek out the answers.
Don't take short cuts,and most of all - HAVE FUN !!
Refinishing can be very relaxing and rewarding,
and it helps to have guide lines to follow.
************************************************************
Re finishers Diary Part 2
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# 104
Removing Paint
If the piece was painted originally by the manufacturer,you may run into problems
Problem #1
The manufacture wasn't that particular in the grade of wood used to
make that piece.
Why should he,if its going to be painted!!
That's a problem for YOU if you plan on refinishing it.
You may find mixed grades and types of wood,or even wood filler
to conceal defects.
Problem #2
Depending on the type of wood.
The paint may come off very hard.
You may end up having to bleach out stains.
You may end up with heavy sanding as a last resort.
On oak and mahogany the paint will be imbedded right into the grain.
Maple should be easier to work on.
Pine?? The toughest of all to work on.
Problem # 3
If the piece has veneer!!!
The stripper may attack the glue.
This is true especially if you have it dipped in a hot dip tank.
Also if you decide to strip the veneer your self,you may find
the veneer breaking apart while you are are trying to remove the paint.
************************************************************************
Note: If the piece has varnish underneath the paint,then the paint will
come off easier,because the varnish will have stopped the paint
from direct contact with the wood also from filling the pores of the wood.
Note: If the piece had varnish missing in areas,and someone painted the piece,
then the paint will be in direct contact with the wood in these areas,
making it difficult to remove.
***********************************************************************
REMOVING PAINT
1- Cabinet scrapers
Cabinet scrapers are pieces of metal that come in different shapes.
They can be sharpened with a file,and burnished with a burnishing tool.
A good quality set will last a life time.
I have used cabinet scrapers to strip paint right down to the wood.
Once you get the hang of it,it goes pretty fast.
If you would like to try cabinet scrapers and you can't find them
go to http://www.constaintine.com
They may also have instructions.
******************************************************************
REMOVING PAINT
2- DIP TANKS
Dip tanks will remove most every type of paint.
A cold tank is pretty save,if the piece is not left in to long.
If the piece has veneer,and the veneer is loose in areas,the veneer
may curl or break off.
Also if the piece id dipped the stripper may raise the grain.
Other then that,a cold tank is pretty save.
A hot tank I would stay away from.
A hot tank WILL attack the glue.
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REMOVING PAINT
3- Heat Guns and torches
They will remove paint BUT you will need to final strip with
a chemical stripper.
Personally- I would stay away from.
Heat guns would be good as a starter if your stripping a door with
many coats of paint.BUT the fumes can be deadly,especially
if the paint is leaded paint.
I suggest you take it to a pro strip shop.
*******************************************************************
REMOVING PAINT
4- Chemical strippers
This would be my choice.
There are many chemical strippers to pick from.
Ask for the strongest stripper that is available,and take safety
precautions just follow directions.
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REMOVING PAINT
5- Glass
Old timers used to use glass to strip off the finishes.
They would keep breaking the glass till they came up with a
piece that was the right shape.
**************************************************************
# 105
Stripping conversion varnish.
Conversion varnish is used on newer furniture,mostly on kitchen cabinets.
It is very difficult to remove.
You need to keep working at it.
Chances are you will end up scrubbing it off,and stripping it
more then once.
It will be a experience that you will not want to experience
again.
Stripping conversion varnish is best left to a pro.stripping shop.
If your piece is fairly new,!!!! do your self a favor.
Test in a inconspicuous area to see how the stripper will work.
If the finish remains tacky!! or slippery,It's probably conversion varnish.
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# 106
If you are about to refinish one lone chair,that doesn't belong to
a set or doesn't match any thing,BUT you want to duplicate the same
color,here is what you do.
Turn the chair up side down and strip under the seat.
Apply different stains to this area till you find one that matches
the original color,then you can go ahead and strip the chair.
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# 107
Broken Bed solution-
Instead of trying to repair a broken rail support on your head or foot
board,why not get your self a metal rail support system.
They come adjustable to fit any size bed,and it will relieve all
stress from your head board and foot board.PLUS it will last a life time
Call or visit your local bedding outlet supplier and see for your self.
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# 108
Need a small clamp in a hurry???
Try a clothes pin it makes a excellent small clamp.
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# 109
Computer Tip.....
My computer is located in my shop,which gets pretty dusty at times.
I use to cover it with a plastic covering to keep it clean.
Well!!!! I was told NOT TO cover it because the computer has to breath.
And by covering it would trap the heat.I guess I wasn't so smart!!!
SO!!! I ended up inclosing my computer area completely from all the dust.
*********************************************************************
# 110
To clean antiques or old wooden furniture that has a dull or discolored
SHELLAC finish,use a solution of equal parts mineral oil,turpentine,
and white vinegar.
Rub the solution in with a sponge,then wipe it off with a clean rag.
As you work,continually stir or shake the solution to keep it well mixed.
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# 111
The Furniture Doctor's
Table Of Removers
#1-Shellac
Denatured alcohol. (Sold as "shellac solvent")
For gummier shellacs,used in the Victorian era,add
1 part lacquer thinner to 4 parts alcohol.
No rinse necessary.
===================================================
#2-Lacquer.
Lacquer thinner will dissolve this quite easily.
Job will go faster if you add one part of
denatured alcohol to every four parts of lacquer thinner.
No rinse necessary before staining or applying new finish.
==========================================================
#3-Varnish.
Best thing is a water-rinse paint and varnish remover
of the TTM-4 or stripeeze type.
Some varnishes are quickly and cleanly removed with a mixture
of half lacquer thinner and half alcohol.
Lye,ammonia and T.S.P will eat varnish but also darken
and chew up the wood underneath, so are not usually
used on a single layer or two of clear finish.
===========================================================
#4-Paint.
For a single coat of ordinary paint,read as above
for varnish.
Enamel paint is just varnish with ground pigment in it.
( The enamel on kitchen stoves is actually a thin coat of
baked-on glass.)
=============================================================
#5-Paint
(many layers)
Here we resort to strong chemicals.
Lye is first- It will turn wood brown,and will raise fibers
on the surface,and must have a final rinse with vinegar to
stop the action of the lye in the wood.Also T.S.P.a milder
version of lye.
===============================================================
#6-Milk Paint.
Ammonia works better then anything else on these,regardless
of cost.
Be pre paired for unpleasant fumes.
Also turns wood dark,but oxalic solution will bleach quickly.
Then just rinse with water.
=================================================================
#7-Linseed Oil.
Reads the same as varnish.
=================================================================
NOTE:- All of the removers mentioned above are commonly available
through paint,hardware,and grocery stores.
There aren't any secret chemicals.
It's just knowing what to use,and when.
================================================================
# 112
What is the best way to remove broken dowels???
Here is the way I do it.
Hey!!-- It works for me.
Removing broken dowels
copyrite1999,Phil M Beaudet
I found through trial and error,that the best way to remove a broken dowel is to
first cut it off flush,then drill a hole in the center.
Next drive a one inch screw in the hole about half way,then try to pull it out with a
claw hammer.
Sometimes (especially if the dowel is a little loose) this will remove the dowel with
out damaging the original dowel hole.
If this doesn't work,I then drill a larger hole in the dowel,using a drill bit about half
the diameter of the dowel.
Then I dig out the rest of the dowel with a awl,or small chisel.
This way you end up not destroying the dowel hole.
You may be tempted to drill out the dowel using the same diameter drill bit.
Most of the time,the bit will go off center,and you'll end up ruining the dowel hole.
Sometimes there just isn't any easy way.If the claw hammer doesn't do the job,
then DIG IT OUT
Here is a technique that I use that you can try.
Sometimes if there is enough of the broken dowel exposed you can try vise grips
on the broken dowel and hit the vice grips with a hammer to drive out the broken
dowel..........It's worth a shot.
Remember not to use replacement dowels that are to long.
Take the time to measure.Dry fit if your not sure.
It's better to have them a little shorter.
There is nothing more frustrating then to glue up every thing ,and find that the
joints don't come together because your replacement dowels were to long.
For replacement dowels choose fluted dowels,and don't use excessive amounts of
glue,you'll just end up with extra work with removing all that excess glue.
Just use enough glue to cover both joints.
Clean up excess glue with a wet rag.
Buff dry with a dry rag.
Clamp at lease over night.
Use wax paper under clamps.
Glue and clamps won't stick to wax paper.
Point to remember: Yellow glue has a shelf life of one year
How old is your glue?
Cleaning old glue off of joints: You got to remove all the old glue off of your joints
or they won't stay.Glue has to penetrate the wood to insure a strong bond.
If there is very little glue to remove,you could use a cabinet scraper,or a piece of
cut glass.
If there is a lot of glue to remove you can use a file,to remove most of the
glue,then switch to a cabinet scraper or glass to remove the remainder but just
down to the wood,and to the wood only.
Don't use sand paper,it will clog up.
Hot water or vinegar will work on some glue,but I find it leaves a mess,plus you'll
have to wait for the joints to dry before continuing.
My self! I prefer a cabinet scraper.
It works for me
The choice is yours.
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# 113
Furniture Buying Tips
Consumers Guide to Buying Furniture
Copyright,1998 Philip M Beaudet
Here are some points to consider,when your out there shopping for furniture.
The following express my opinion only,and is based on my 22 years in the furniture restoration business.
Where was the piece made?
If the piece was manufactured somewhere other then new England,where the climate is much different,there is a chance that the joints will loosen up. Wood does extract and expand.
How long has the company been in business?And are they still in business?
Replacement parts may be difficult or impossible to get.
How many coats of finish is there on the piece?
Usually three coats of sealer and three coats of lacquer or poly.
Are there any metal fasteners used in the construction?
Watch out for this one.Using metal fasteners, may be a faster way to assemble furniture,BUT to me this means poor quality.
When shopping for kitchen or dining room chairs,should you purchase spindle or stick style chair? Besides personal taste! What's the difference?
My opinion is STICK CHAIRS are usually a better buy.WHY! They hold up better.
Spindle chairs,unless they are made of a good hard wood,with a thick seat of at lease one and a quarter inch thickness,with the legs going in to the seat at lease one inch,simple won't hold together as long. And it helps if the wood is seasoned properly and the joints are not sloppy.
How is it constructed?
But joints and staples used on a frame of a couch! This is how many dinning room sets are put together.Not my choice.
What type of joinery was used?
In the case of a upholstered piece of furniture,where most all joints are hidden,Ask to see printed info.I would not buy something that was thrown together with but joints and staples.
What kind of wood is it made of?
Ask to see it in writ ting,--To me particle board and flake board and plywood is not my idea of quality furniture. And that goes for kitchen cabinets and dovetail joints especially.
What kind of guarantee do you get?
Get it in writ ting
What was used for a top coat finish?
This info. will prove valuable if you need to touch it up personally.
Is the finish a colored finish?
Manufactures sometimes use toners and colored lacquer to blend in difference in the choice of wood they use.This makes the piece more uniform,and more appealing to the eye.This system is used especially on maple wood,among others.
When a colored finish wears out,you will notice a drastic difference in appearance.
If only for this reason!I personally would stay away from any furniture with a colored finish. There is no fast way to correct this problem.
Unfortunately,better than 50% of the furniture made today,has a colored finish.
Is the piece made from selected hard woods or all hard wood?
Manufactures like to play with words.What I would want is ALL hard wood construction.
Is there any particle board,flake board, or chip board, used in construction?
Stay away from this
In a upholstered piece,what type of springs are used?
Coiled springs is what I would want. Not zig zag springs!
What type or grade of foam,or rubber is used?
Cheap foam will bottom out.How long is the foam or rubber guaranteed to hold up.
What type of fabric is used?
How long is it guaranteed for.
Does the fabric have scotch guard protection?
Most fabrics today do.
If the piece has coil springs! are the springs tied eight ways?
This usually means high quality.
On a couch, Are the legs part of the frame?or added on?
Sometimes added on legs prove to be problem,especially if there is not enough support where the legs are fastened to.
When shopping for a piece of furniture,give it a stress test.
Stress testing a kitchen or dining room chair! Stand in front with one knee on the seat.and grabbing the back of the chair,test for play,or any movement.
With your knee still on the chair,grab the seat and move from side to side.
There shouldn't be any play,or movement at all any where.
Stress testing a couch or stuffed chair.Grab a arm,and try to move it side to side.
Grab first one side of the back,and try moving front to back.
Grab one end of the couch or chair and lift off the floor.Rock the piece side to side.
Again there shouldn't be any play anywhere.
Tip the couch or chair on it's back and check out the bottom.Check the legs.Sometimes you can see what type of springs were used.
If all this sounds a bit drastic! Hey! It's your money....
Is there free delivery?
Usually.
Do they take away your old furniture?
Sometimes. Ask!
Do they supply you with a touch-up kit?
Usually not.BUT it sure would help,down the road.
What color stain was used on the wood?
This is very helpful info.Expecially if down the road it needs touch-up or refinishing
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# 114
Tips on Rushing chairs
RUSHING CHAIRS
copywrite1999 phil m beaudet
CUT OFF OLD RUSH,AND REMOVE ALL NAILS
CLAMP CHAIR TO TABLE WITH WEB CLAMP PLACED UNDER LOWER RUNGS AND UNDER TABLE TOP TO SECURE THE CHAIR FROM MOVING.
UNWIND RUSH FROM REEL,AND MEASURE OFF ABOUT 20 FEET,AND THROW ACROSS FLOOR.
REWIND RUSH ONTO A PLASTIC SHUTTLE,OR IN A COIL
PLACE WOUND UP RUSH IN A DOUBLE BOILER AND STEAM FOR AT LEASE HALF AN HOUR
MARK(CENTER) YOUR FRONT RAIL EVEN WITH YOUR REAR RAIL
RUSH ONE CORNER AT A TIME.UP TO YOUR MARK
START WITH YOUR LEFT FRONT CORNER
PLACE YOUR RUSH ALONG THE INSIDE OF THE LEFT FRONT RAIL
AND TACK IT
PULL YOUR RUSH OVER THE FRONT RAIL UP AGAINST YOUR LEFT POST AND GO UNDER THE RAIL THEN GO OVER YOUR LEFT SIDE RAIL
KEEPING THE RUSH TIGHT AGAINST THE CORNER POST
CLAMP EACH CORNER AS YOU GO.
BRING YOUR RUSH OVER YOUR RIGHT FRONT SIDE RAIL UP AGAINST
YOUR RIGHT FRONT POST
GO AROUND THE POST AND OVER YOUR RIGHT FRONT RAIL KEEPING THE RUSH AGAINST THE POST
BRING THE RUSH BACK TOWARD THE BACK OF THE CHAIR STAYING TO THE RIGHT AND TACK THE RUSH TO THE RIGHT SIDE POST ABOUT 2 TO 4 INCHES FROM THE BACK
CUT THE RUSH AND REPEAT THE SAME PROCESS UNTILL BOTH YOUR FRONT CORNERS ARE FILLED UP
PULL AND MAINTAIN TENSION ON EACH STRING OF RUSH.
CHECK SQUARNESS OFTEN AS YOU GO.
REMEMBER TO CLAMP EACH CORNER AS YOU GO
AFTER YOUR FRONT CORNERS ARE FILLED IN TAKE THE NEXT SPOOL OF STEAMED RUSH AND TACK THE LOOSE END TO THE INSIDE OF THE LEFT RUNG AS YOU DID BEFORE.BUT THIS TIME YOU WILL KEEP GOING TILL YOU RUN OUT OF RUSH
WHEN YOU GET TO THE RIGHT RUNG INSTEAD OF TACKING THE RUSH,YOU WILL BE BRINGING THE RUSH TO THE REAR RUNG.
GO OVER THE REAR RUNG BRING THE RUSH UNDER THE REAR RUNG ANDTOWARDS THE FRONT THEN SWING OVER THE RIGHT SIDE RUNG
UNDER THE SIDE RAIL AND OVER THE LEFT RUNG,UNDER THE LEFT RUNG,THEN OVER THE LEFT BACK RUNG,UNDER THE LEFT BACK RUNG AND OVER THE LEFT FRONT RUNG.
JUST REMEMBER TO GO OVER AND UNDER,AND TAKE YOUR TIME
KEEP THE TENSION ON AND CLAMP YOUR WORK.
USE A WOODEN WEDGE TO KNOCK BACK THE RUSH TO KEEP YOUR WORK SQUARE.
WHEN YOU RUN OUT OF RUSH,TIE A SQUARE KNOT TO THE RUSH
KEEP THE KNOT IN THE CENTER OF THE CHAIR,THIS WILL HELP HIDE THE KNOT,AND CONTINUE ON.
WHEN YOU ARE THREE FORTH OF THE WAY FROM COMPLETING THE CHAIR, YOU WILL NEED TO PUT IN FILLERS.
CUT SOME CARDBOARD WEDGES AND STICK THEM IN BETWEEN UPPER AND LOWER STRANDS OF
RUSH. PICK CLEAR CARDBOARD
WITH NO PRINTING.
NOW YOU WILL HAVE TO USE SMALLER RUNS OF RUSH BECAUSE YOUR CENTER WILL BE SMALLER.
MOST ALWAYS YOUR SIDES WILL FILL IN FIRST LEAVING THE FRONT AND BACK ONLY TO BE COMPLETED.
THE REMAINING FRONT TO BACK IS COMPLETED BY GOING OVER AND UNDER TILL YOU CAN'T GET ANY MORE RUSH IN.
YOU MAY HAVE TO PUSH THE RUSH TO THE SIDE WITH YOUR WEDGES TO MAKE ROOM.
TIE THE RUSH BY RUNNING IT THREW AND UNDER THE RUSH UNDERNEATH THE CHAIR LOCKING IT SECURELY
FINISH THE RUSH BY APPLYING 2 TO 3 COATS OF SHELLAC.
**************************************************************************************
# 115
When using penetrating stains, try sealing the wood first.
The stain should go on a lot smoother, without biting into the wood.
********************************************************************
#116
A better solution for glue containers.
Clean out one of those plastic French's mustard containers,and use it as a glue container.
You will never loose the tip,and your glue will stay fresher,plus this container will stay cleaner.
Makes you wonder why all glue containers are not made this way!!
***********************************************************
#117-A
Touching up furniture
Use Wax Shoe polish to touch up nicks and scratches and worn areas.
Use it straight, or mix with a little Paint Thinner.
Apply with your finger or a small artist brush.
Wait 5 minutes to dry, and buff.
******************************************************
#117-B
Fine Tip Magic Markers.
Available online at
http://www.mohawkfinishing.com
they come in many shades.
It don't get any simpler then this....
Use a light touch--and if you mess it up
Wash it off with Paint Thinner.
You can also blend it in by applying paint thinner and
working #0000 steel wool over the area, just remember to ALWAYS
keep the area wet while rubbing.
Wipe dry...and your done.
*********************************************************
#117-C
Almond Stick
Available on line at
This is good for fine scratches.
Just rub it on and buff.
************************************************
#117-D
Restore-A-Finish
Available online at
Will remove light scratches and water marks.
*************************************************************
#117-E
Briwax & Antiqwax
Available online at
Besides covering scratches Briwax will also stop mildew.
***********************************************************
#117-F
NU-GLO
Available online at
http://www.mohawkfinishing.com
Excellent product for concealing scratches
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More Guides Available Below
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm