Free Furniture Refinishing Tips

 


Question # 201 -

Phil, can you tell me what a typical re-upholsterer would charge (USA) for an antique chair and matching loveseat.  Fabric will be bought by myself from a dealer (didn't like his fabric's).  The back and seat of each piece would need to be re-upholstered but the loveseat would need new stuffing on the seat of the loveseat.  I am lost as to what I can negotiate for a fair price….I believe it will be about 20 yards of fabric to make sure I have enough…Thanks….LOST IN PA!  

Answer - It depends on the job. Plus... Prices depend on your location. The average price for a Antique chair can range from $250.00 to $400.00 plus material. The average price for a love seat can range from $350.00 to $700.00 plus material. Touching up show wood is extra. Repairing the frame is extra also. With out a picture, I can't give you a more actuate estimate. I usually tell my customer the above information. You may get burnt by giving just a one figure estimate. You really don't know what repair work will be needed until you really get into the job. For instance: you may discover that the coil springs will need to be retied. You may find some springs will need to be replace. Also take pictures to show your customer, and to protect yourself. If any unexpected problems present themselves, contact the customer right away. Check out some of my repair jobs on my Online Clinic to see what I am talking about as far as unexpected problems presenting themselves.


Question # 202 - I was wondering how to take veneer wood off of cedar wood chest.  Thank you for your time.
Rebecca

Answer - I have used Vinegar or with stubborn cases I have used a heat gun and a putty knife. In either case let the vinegar or heat gun do it's job. Do not force it off. After it's all removed, wash it down with Vinegar, then with Denatured Alcohol. If you're going to re-veneer the piece, make sure the surface is perfectly flat and smooth. Also use a veneer with a backing.


Question # 203 - How do i refinish banister? thanks Jill

Answer - Hi Jill, First you need to use drop cloths to protect everything else, or you're going to risk damage to your floors etc. Tape or tack everything down. I would use a paste stripper or semi paste stripper. Zip-Strip or Strip-ezz would be a good choice. You could also use Cabinet Scrappers to strip off the finish. for a description of Cabinet Scrappers, click here

You will find that using Cabinet Scrappers is the way to go. It is fast, clean up is a breeze. Just vacuum up the residue. It is healthier. Just wear a dust mask. And it is a hell of a lot cheaper. I use them when ever I can. Just take your time, and clean them often and keep them sharp. Everything you need to know about them will be found on my Online Clinic. Buy two or three of them and let others help you.

As far as further instructions, they would be the same procedure as refinishing furniture. If you were a subscriber to my Online Clinic I would first direct you to read my Refinishers Diary. There you will also find the same rules I use to Refinish Furniture. I would suggest joining my Online Clinic. There you will find answers to all of your questions. To subscribe click here

If you don't think it's worth the price, just cancel. But at lease check it out....

I am here most of the time to answer any questions.


Question # 204 - Do you have any guides on how to start a furniture refinishing and repair business. Thanks for your time, John

Answer - Yes I do. click the following links for more info.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/business.htm

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

 


Question # 205 - Need instructions on how to repair wood dresser drawers.

Answer - My Online Clinic features a few guides with instructions on repairing dresser drawers. Click link below for more info.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/contents.htm

Complete instructions will be found on my Online Clinic for Reinforcing Drawers, Repairing Drawers, Rebuilding Drawers, and building a drawer from scratch. To learn more, click the following link.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm


Question # 206 - Need instructions on how to refinish an oak drop leaf desk.

Answer -   Go to http://thefurnituredoctor.net/oakdropleafpre.htm

 


Question # 207 - Need instructions on repairing stuffed chairs. Instructions must include regluing chair joints and  how to reinforce chair joints. I picked it up at a tag sale. please help. I really want to fix it up. Thanks Mary

Answer - Go to http://thefurnituredoctor.net/consultation.htm

 

 


Question # 208 -

My kitchen cabinets are in good shape but need the luster brought back in them. I want the name of a product that will cover scratches and bring the luster back in them. thank you Connie

Answer -

Hi Connie,
There are many products that CLAIM to work.
One that I have tried is Restor-A-Finish by Howard
It works but you may need to apply more then once a year.
Check it out.
If you need more help
contact me.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index.html

Question # 209 - I have an old bed and the veneer has fallen off (about 98%).  Do you have
> any suggestions?  I also am unsure of the color, the pieces left are so
> very
> dark.
> Picture attached.  I'd appreciate your input.
 

Answer - Hi Jim,
I would suggest you start with a good cleaning first.
This will give you a better idea of what your have.
To clean: use paint thinner and cotton cloths.
The pictures show either all the veneer is missing
or the bed has a dark frame with light veneered panels.
If all the veneer is missing, you can re veneer or paint or antique it.
Painting would be the fastest and cheapest way.
Re veneering would be the most costly way to go.
Antiquing would be a good choice,
because you can add your own wood grain and color.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index.html
 


Question # 210 -

Phil
 
You helped me a while ago with a furniture polish question.  I have another one for you.  How would you get a ring off a wooden table which was
created from a candle burned down in a glass holder and left a mark on
the table?
 
Thank you.
 
Ellen

Answer -

Hi Ellen,
Wipe down with a little Denatured Alcohol and a cloth.
Sometimes this will work.
Restor-A-Finish has also worked for me.
If not....You will need to Refinish.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index.html

Question # 211 -

Hi Phil

I just purchased your “Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets” manual and I guess I was hoping to find more samples of antiquing with paint and glaze.  I have made many unsatisfied sample attempts at this process and am not achieving the desired look I’m going for.  I am moving into a house that has wonderful solid oak cabinets (but old honey oak stained).  I love the new opaque I don’t want to strip the cabinets to antique stain but was looking more into painting the cabinets a light cream and applying a glaze over the top.  Here is the process I have tried on sample panels: covered with water-based primer, painted latex (flat) in cream color, and then applied a mocha glaze over the top and wiped off to try and get depth in the creases.  In the end it looks more like dirt in the corners than anything.  I then tried with more a mixture of more glaze than paint and that helped somewhat but still not giving me the overall look I’m going for.  Home Depot recommended applying a walnut stain over the paint but that didn’t wipe off well enough and looked too dark all over for my taste.  I may not have allowed the paint to dry 24 hours before applying the stain…would that have made a difference?  Once I have finished I also am not achieving the soft finish feel (opaque) I want.  It looks and feels rough and not smooth.  I really want the smooth feel and look…would that come from sanding in between coats more and over the final product?  I plan on using a satin poly finish but haven’t applied any yet since I haven’t achieved the look I want yet. 

The one process I haven’t tried and maybe need too is applying a darker paint under the lighter cream paint and sand the edges off to look worn?  Just not sure what I would do in the creases where I want the depth.  As you can see I’m lost and have tried four different ways and frustrated.  Can you recommend a process or maybe the best products to use?  I love the new look of this process and see it everywhere in new magazines.

Can you help with any recommendations!  Thanks so much. 

 

Chris

Answer -

Hi Chris,
Kitchen Cabinet Manufactures are always coming out with new looks and finishes, in order to stay ahead of their competition.
Usually they will keep their finishing process a trade secret.
 
One thing for sure is, they would not use latex paint.
Kitchen Cabinet Manufactures usually spray a conversion varnish, or modified lacquer,or other highly water resistant finish.
They tint the varnish to the desired color or colors, and spray them on.
Each color is sealed before the next color is applied.
Sometimes they produce highlights by masking.
Other techniques have been using an air brush to produce the highlights.
 
Duplicating a certain look takes practice.
The best advice I can offer is to practice on scrap wood till you get the look you want.
 
If you could send pictures of the finish you are trying to duplicate, it would help.
 
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 212 -

we have had the table  and chaires dipped and stripped.  we have sanded them down, what products should we use to restore . we are not sure whether to wax or varnish

Answer -

I would use a poly finish.
First the wood should be prepped correctly, to remove any contamination
such as wax, silicon,or your finish will not dry properly.
If you are a subscriber to my Online Clinic, check out my Refinishers Diary,
and the rules I follow for prepping for finish.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 213 -

Was just given a loveseat...back is veneer (cracked/chipped and warped/partially unglued.)  But there is an cherub head and wings at the center top back.  Looks to be made of plaster (?)It's missing small pieces of the wing and is crackled looking.  This piece was painted white and then black. I've gotten all the paint off and it seems to be stained a cherry or mahogany. The piece  is light weight hardwood. Seat is coil spring and was coveredat sosme point.  Arms are slightly shaped wood with shaped spindles below arms.  Leg and arm tops are one piece of wood. 
My questions are:  How do I repair the veneer on this curved back?
 
What do you call the raised plaster cherubs used on furniture?
 
Is there some way to remove the cherub without damaging it?
 
Where do I get repair "stuff" for the cherub?
 
Any idea what ear this type of furniture is?  Thanks  Patt

Answer -

Send pictures.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 214 -

I have a cedar chest made by Farley & Loetscher mfg company Cedar DELUXE Products from Dubuque, Iowa that has a missing back leg that I wish to replace with something like it. I am in Las Vegas, Nevada and am refinishing and restoring this chest as it was in ill repair, all I need is the back leg that is missing, I would even go for 2 new back legs, all though it is quite possible that I need to replace all four legs, if an exact replacement is not available. Darin Jarrett (702) 219-1428. If you can help me with this or know someone who can in my area, I would certainly appriciate it. Thank you for your time.

Answer -

Send Pictures.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 215 -

Dear Phil, the furniture doctor,

I have knotty pine kitchen cabinets. 

Can I sand them and apply ebony stain?  And if so, how will it look?  I don’t have a sample piece to try it on.  Can I go to a lumber place (Home Depot?) and buy a piece of knotty pine and try it?  Or will it look very different since my cabinets are 51 years old with shellac?

Thank you in advance for your time and knowledge.

Answer -

Hi Cathy,
Practice on a scrap piece.
You need to strip off the finish with a chemical stripper or scrape it off with cabinet scrappers.
You don't sand off a finish.
Why a ebony stain?
Regards,
Phil

Question # 216 -

Hi,
I finally decided to try the internet to solve my problem and found you.
 I am refinishing or tiring to my mothers old dinning room set made of pine, table, chairs and hutch. I have it stripped and need to know what to clean it with and what to put on it to keep it looking natural not shinny. We use this every day in our kitchen so I need to put some thing on it that wont let any thing penetrate or stain it.
Can you help.

Answer -

Hi Brenda,
I would use a Poly finish, it is available in satin and dull.
A dull finish will not give any shine.
A satin finish will give you a little shine.
You can clean it with paint thinner.
If you detect any shiny areas, that is a tell tail sign that you need to re strip.
My Online Clinic will insure perfect results.
Prepping for finishing is the most important step in refinishing.
If not done properly, you will run into problems.
The first guide to look at after joining is my Refinishers Diary, #7 down the list.
Go to the rules that I use to Refinish furniture.
They are time tested, and will keep you out of trouble.
Then follow some of my other guides like #38 - Refinishing Cherry Dressers.
This guide will explain everything from stripping, prepping, removing contamination, etc.
An other guide to follow is #52 - these are the most detailed guides on Refinish available.
If you decide to join later, after you run into problem, you may need to start from scratch.
To join, click the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 217 -

Hi ; My mother has a chair that has a seat that is finished in a cover that is called rush. The string needs to be replaced . What is the string made from ? Where do I find this materal? I have never done this type of work.

Answer -

Hi Carolyn,
The rush is made of paper and natural rush.
You can find it online at http://www.wsidistributors.com
If you need instructions, I offer three guides on Rushing.
They will be found on my Online Clinic by scrolling down to
Guide # 18  Guide# 31 and Guide # 63
Two of the guides are fully Illustrated.
They will take you step by step through the whole process.
To subscribe, click the following link.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 218 -

hey Phil,
I have a set of kitchen cabinet doors that i have to spray a couple of coats of either polyurethane or laquer.  What is the best way of testing the finish to see what is already there?
                                                                      Thanx, Bill

Answer -

Hi Bill,
If the Cabinets were finished at the factory, chances are the original finish is Conversion Varnish,
 
or Modified Lacquer, in which case you can spray Poly over them.
Clean and scuff them first.
 
To determine if the original finish is Lacquer, apply a small amount of Lacquer Thinner
in a inconspicuous area.
Lacquer thinner will dissolve most types of Lacquer.
 
To determine if the original finish is Shellac, try Denatured Alcohol.
 
To most important step before applying your finish is to properly
prep, or you will run into problems.
 
If you are a subscriber to my Online Clinic,
Read my Refinishers Diary, and the Rules I use to Refinish furniture.
 
My Refinishers Diary will be #7 on my Online Clinic.
 
If you're not a subscriber, you can subscribe by going to the link below.
 
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 

 
Regards,
Phil

Question # 219 -

I would like to change the color of my laquer armoir to match my new bamboo bed set.  How do I g about doing that please?
 
Thank You,
Judith

Answer -

Hi Judith,
#1- The fastest way would be to Antique it.
#2- The only other way would be to Refinish it.
Refinishing instructions will be found on my Online Clinic.
For more info.click below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
The first guide to read after you subscribe is my Refinishers Diary.
You will find it listed as guide # 7
Go to the Rules I use when I Refinish.
 
Pick a guide to follow and proceed to strip the armoire.
Guides # 38 and #52 would be a good  guides to follow.
 
After you strip a door or drawer, the next thing to do is
to take it, plus a door or drawer from your bamboo bed set
 to a paint supplier and have them match the color.
 
If you have questions about any step in the guides, contact me right away.
I usually answer all questions the same day.
 
Looking forward to working with you,
Regards,
Phil

Question # 220 -

I have a beautiful white wallunit, that has, over the years, yellowed. Any suggestions on how  I can whiten it again?
 
Thanks for your response.
 
Lory

Answer -

Could be caused by wax.
Try a wax remover
Regards,
Phil

Question # 221 -

I have some 30 year old Rose Wood furniture and the only finish on it is Johnson's Paste Wax. I would like to know how to strip the wax off to refinish it.  If you have any ideas I would apprecitate it.  Thank you...
 
Rick

Answer -

Hi Rick,
I would use a wax remover.
Paint thinner will also work.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 222 -

Do you strip furniture at your company?
 
Thanks,
Kelly

Answer -

Hi Kelly,
To answer your question, yes I do strip furniture.
Are you looking to have a piece stripped ?
Or are you looking for instructions on stripping ?
 
First I want to point out that stripping is not always necessary.
The only time you strip, is if the finish is to far gone, or you
want to change the color.
 
Often you can save the piece by Restoring the finish.
 
Click link below for before and after pictures.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 
Also....You are not limited to using a chemical striper.
Dry stripping with Cabinet Scrappers is much safer and it
would be my first choice.
 
Click below for a description of Cabinet Scrapers
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/fig12.htm
 
To learn more !
Sign up for my Online Clinic.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 224 -

Hi,
 
I was left a, well what i would describe as a glass display cabinet by my step grandfather who was adamant that i had it.
 
It has a label on the back that says Harris & Rose ( Furniture ) Ltd.
It's double fronted with lead stained glass, 2 glass shelves, mirrors in the back and the centre inside has a goldish coloured material on it.
 
Is there any chance you may be able to tell me anything about it, or a worth amount, I think it's Walnut!
 
I can get some pictures of it for you if you may need them, or if you know anyone that may be able to help me.
 
Many thanks
 
Lyndsey

Answer -

Hi Lyndsey,
Send pictures.
You should also have it appraised locally, by a qualified Antique dealer.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 225 -

Hi,
 
I just found your site.  I inherited a bunch of teak furniture and while moving the piece of most worth, a beautiful sideboard, I put a rather deep scratch right on the top of it.  Is there any type of filler and stain I can use to fix this?  Do you sell such things?
 
Thanks!
 
Michael
 

Answer -

Hi Michael.
The only thing I sell is Information.
You will find several guides on repairing scratches
on my Online Clinic.
 
Below is an excerpt from one guide.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 
The method you use depends on how severe the damage is.
 
Send pictures.
 
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 226 -

Thanks for your reply but no wax was ever applied to it. Any other ideas?
 

Answer -

Hi Lory,
Some of the older finishes do turn yellow with age.
One technique that may work is to wash with Borax.
 
If that doesn't work, you could spray on a new finish.
NOTE: - It helps to know what the original finish is
before applying a new finish over it, or you may run into problems.
NOTE: - Also you will need to prep for the new finish.
 
The last resort would be to Refinish it.
If the design is plain, you could consider using Cabinet Scrappers
to strip off the old finish.
It would be faster,safer, and cheaper then using a chemical stripper.
Cabinet Scrappers would remove all of the finish,
right down to the wood in one application.
After the finish is removed, all that is required, is a light sanding,
and a wash with paint thinner, and you're ready to proceed to the next step.
Clean up is a breeze, just use a vacuum.
No fumes, less mess to clean up.
 
For a description of Cabinet Scrapers, click link below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/fig12.htm
 
Let me know if the borax treatment worked.
 
Regards,
Phil Beaudet
Publisher/Author
Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic
 
 

Question # 227 -

Hello:
 
I was given a kitchen table and one of the back poles on one of the chairs is cracked in a diagnol manner.  I want to fix this chair as I can't afford to buy another one.  Can you help? 
 
I was going to just tap a small nail and use some wood glue, but I don't want it to look like a female did it.
 
Thank you,
 
Rhonda

Answer -

Hi Rhonda,
Spread the joint apart, you can use a small screwdriver to do this.
Force some glue into the joint till it comes out the other side.
There are special glue injector available.
Clamp the joint tight.
You can use a c clamp or two.
Protect the wood with heavy cardboard,
or small pieces of wood so you won't damage the wood finish.
Wipe up excess glue.
Let dry for a day.
 
More free tips are available on my web site by going
to my newsletter archives and my Q & A page.
 
Subscribe to my newsletter to receive more tips.
 
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
 
 

Question # 228 -

I have a Stickley Bros. dresser that was probably manufactured just before they went out of business. The mirror is attached by way of a dowel on each end that goes through a hole on the dresser top. Each dowel has a slot and was kept in place by a keyhole type of metal slide that went in the back of the dresser just under the top. Any idea of where to get replacement keyhole type retainers? Thank You.

Answer -

Hi Steve,
Go online at http://www.wsidistributors.com
Regards,
Phil

Question # 229 - Phil - My wife and I just bought a house that has pickled oak (white
> washed) cabinets in the kitchen and bathrooms. She hates them, but the
> house isn't very old and the cabinets are in great shape - replacing them
> just doesn't make any sense.
>
> How difficult are these to refinish to a darker, more traditional finish?
> Is removing pickled/white washed finish and refinshing covered in your
> guide?
>
> Thanks!
>
> Mark
 

Answer - Hi Mark,
Refinishing Cabinets that have a pickled finish is no different.
The process is the same.

IF the cabinets are TRULY made of oak, you should be able
to strip them and apply what ever stain and finish you choose.

Just be certain that they are made of oak and not simulated wood.
Test strip in an inconspicuous area to determine.

Next: Apply ample amount of paint thinner to the stripped
area to see what the wood reveals.

If you're not sure, get a second opinion, or send me pictures.

Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net

 


Question # 230 - have a round oak dining room table that I am trying to refinish because it was water damaged in one spot.  Someone gave me advice to simply clean it off, apply oil based golden oak stain over the entire table.  I did this, but the stain would not dry.  I also did this to the chairs because one of my cats has used the chair legs as scratching posts.  I filled in with wood filler and re-stained the legs and chair seats.  Back to the table.  I sanded the table top because the stain is all uneven.  Have re-stained with same results.  Tried to apply polyurethane water based to table top and now have a big mess.  I need to get the finish off.  What product do I use.  And how do I proceed from there???  (grain on table runs in 3 thirds on each half, so grain runs in directions that are difficult to work with)

Answer -

Hi Barbara,
If you don't start off right, you are going to run into problems.
There are certain procedures to follow, and if you do not follow them
you're going to be lost and confused.
 
You will need to strip everything off and start from scratch.
Most likely your finish is not drying due to improper stripping and prepping.
 
As far as water damage, there are ways to remove it.
 
In order for me to advise you, we MUST BOTH be on the same page,or
I will just be guessing what you did wrong.
 
Before you go ahead and restrip the piece, I would suggest that you subscribe
to my Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic.
 
The first thing I want you to do after subscribing, is to go to my Refinishers Diary # 7 on the list.
On my Refinishers Diary you will find the rules that I use when I Refinish Furniture.
These rules are the results of 26 years of trial and error.
It is very important that you Follow them exactly,and you will shouldn't run into any problems.
If you do, since we then will be on the same page, I will have a better understanding of
where you are and what you did wrong.
 
Other guides I want you to read is # 15  How to finish Oak.
and # 52 - Refinishing an Oak Drop Leaf Desk.
There are many tips in this guide and it is one of the largest guide I
have ever written. It will prove very helpful.
There are also many guides on chairs. Check them out too.
There are over 100 guides, so just pick the ones that pertain to your project.
 
If there are any instructions that you don't understand, STOP and contact me
before going any further.
My computer is always on, and I answer all questions the same day.
Some times you will receive an answer with in minutes.
 
If you choose not to subscribe, all I can do is guess what the problems are.
I would rather not guess.
I will recommend what products to use and how to proceed from there.
My step by step instructions are very detailed, and I don't leave anything out.
 
If you choose to subscribe, click the following link.
 
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
If you're not satisfied, just cancel.
I only want Happy subscribers....
 
Looking forward to working with you.
 
Regards,

Question # 231 -

Hello-
  I looked at your online site and was unable to see if there was a guide available for my problem - could you please advise which
one I need to look at?    My problem is an antique birchwood-type table that the movers put heavy items on in our last move and
the top is now sway-backed.  How do I get the table straight again?  I was unable to find a guide with anything similar..
Thank you!!
  Sandy
 

Answer -

Hi Sally,
Sounds like the frame came loose.
You will need to retighten the frame
I do not know if the frame is held together with glue joints
or screws etc...
Send pictures.....Close ups would be required.
Regards,
Phil

Question # 232 -

I have a round oak dining room table that I am trying to refinish because it was water damaged in one spot.  Someone gave me advice to simply clean it off, apply oil based golden oak stain over the entire table.  I did this, but the stain would not dry.  I also did this to the chairs because one of my cats has used the chair legs as scratching posts.  I filled in with wood filler and re-stained the legs and chair seats.  Back to the table.  I sanded the table top because the stain is all uneven.  Have re-stained with same results.  Tried to apply polyurethane water based to table top and now have a big mess.  I need to get the finish off.  What product do I use.  And how do I proceed from there???  (grain on table runs in 3 thirds on each half, so grain runs in directions that are difficult to work with)

Answer -

Hi Barbara,
If you don't start off right, you are going to run into problems.
There are certain procedures to follow, and if you do not follow them
you're going to be lost and confused.
 
You will need to strip everything off and start from scratch.
Most likely your finish is not drying due to improper stripping and prepping.
 
As far as water damage, there are ways to remove it.
 
In order for me to advise you, we MUST BOTH be on the same page,or
I will just be guessing what you did wrong.
 
Before you go ahead and restrip the piece, I would suggest that you subscribe
to my Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic.
 
The first thing I want you to do after subscribing, is to go to my Refinishers Diary # 7 on the list.
On my Refinishers Diary you will find the rules that I use when I Refinish Furniture.
These rules are the results of 26 years of trial and error.
It is very important that you Follow them exactly,and you will shouldn't run into any problems.
If you do, since we then will be on the same page, I will have a better understanding of
where you are and what you did wrong.
 
Other guides I want you to read is # 15  How to finish Oak.
and # 52 - Refinishing an Oak Drop Leaf Desk.
There are many tips in this guide and it is one of the largest guide I
have ever written. It will prove very helpful.
There are also many guides on chairs. Check them out too.
There are over 100 guides, so just pick the ones that pertain to your project.
 
If there are any instructions that you don't understand, STOP and contact me
before going any further.
My computer is always on, and I answer all questions the same day.
Some times you will receive an answer with in minutes.
 
If you choose not to subscribe, all I can do is guess what the problems are.
I would rather not guess.
I will recommend what products to use and how to proceed from there.
My step by step instructions are very detailed, and I don't leave anything out.
 
If you choose to subscribe, click the following link.
 
If you're not satisfied, just cancel.
I only want Happy subscribers....
 
Looking forward to working with you.
 
Regards,
Phil
 

Question # 233 -

Hey Rhonda !!!
I'll start on it tomorrow.
Keep checking my web site for it's premier.
I think I'll also include it in my news letter.
 
As far as fixing drawers, There are a half dozen guides on the subject
in my Online Clinic.
All guides are Illustrated.
It is to difficult to try to explain how with just text.
Pictures are necessary.
And my guides are loaded with them.
 
Keep in touch,
Regards,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: phil
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 3:06 PM
Subject: Re: Kitchen Chair

 
Dear Mr. Phil:
 
Oh really!  I could use some Household tips, like how to take out a broken light bulb, cause I broke one a while back and I always thought you had to use a potato, but the potato was too soft.  A young man on the third floor got it out for me.  How do you fix your drawers, you know when the bottom starts to fall out, stuff like that.  A link for household tips would be a very resourceful idea. 
 
You would make a lot of unhandy people real handy expecially the young women, because I read some of your stuff and you seem to know what you are doing and you make it really easy to read. 
 
Thank you.
 
Rhonda
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From: phil
To:
Cc: phil
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 2:22 PM
Subject: Re: Kitchen Chair

 
Thank you Rhonda,
I appreciate that.
If I can be of further help, contact me.
What type of resource tips would you be interested in.
The reason I ask is, I am thinking of adding a Household Tips Link
to my web site.
You should sign up for my Newsletter
It is loaded with tips on Refinishing and Repairs, and it's free.
Regards,
Phil
----- Original Message -----
From:
To: phil
Sent: Tuesday, November 08, 2005 9:01 AM
Subject: Re: Kitchen Chair

 
Dear Mr. Phil:
 
I greatly appreciate the time you took to respond to my e-mail.  As a single mother I find it very hard to find resourceful tips on the web to help me around the house.  Your's just happened to be a very resourceful site.
 
Kindest regards,
Rhonda Brockman
----- Original Message -----
From: phil
To:
Cc: phil
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 4:42 PM
Subject: Re: Kitchen Chair

 
Hi Rhonda,
Spread the joint apart, you can use a small screwdriver to do this.
Force some glue into the joint till it comes out the other side.
There are special glue injector available.
Clamp the joint tight.
You can use a c clamp or two.
Protect the wood with heavy cardboard,
or small pieces of wood so you won't damage the wood finish.
Wipe up excess glue.
Let dry for a day.
 
More free tips are available on my web site by going
to my newsletter archives and my Q & A page.
 
Subscribe to my newsletter to receive more tips.
 
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net
 
 
 
 
----- Original Message -----
From:
Sent: Friday, November 04, 2005 2:54 PM
Subject: Kitchen Chair

 
Hello:
 
I was given a kitchen table and one of the back poles on one of the chairs is cracked in a diagnol manner.  I want to fix this chair as I can't afford to buy another one.  Can you help? 
 
I was going to just tap a small nail and use some wood glue, but I don't want it to look like a female did it.
 
Thank you,
 
Rhonda

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