Hi Bill,

Are you taking side jobs doing Re upholstery or Re Finishing, or both? Regardless, my Online Clinic may be just what your looking for. If you need more help, I will help you all I can. I can also put you in touch with other Re upholsters and Re Finishers that will help you. One hand washes the other, Try my Online Clinic. It's FREE.... for one week. Check it out

What methods can be used to remove water marks from an acid catalyst lacquer finish on a table top?

 

To answer your question.

Usually I use a Product called Re-Store-A-Finish.

If you can't find it locally, you can purchase it online at

http://www.westernwooddoctor.com/restoreafinish.htm

 

If I run out of Restore-A-Finish I will use  Denatured Alcohol or Paint Thinner.

It depends on the finish, and how long the water was sitting there.

 

Water Marks are caused by moisture that is trapped in your finish.

 

Usually Friction will remove it.

 

It is very important to keep the surface WET while rubbing.

Use a clean cotton cloth to rub your surface.

On stubborn areas, you can use very fine steel wool.

DO NOT let the surface dry out while rubbing, ESPECIALLY when rubbing with steel wool.

 

Let me know how you make out

 

Regards,

Phil

Hello Phil,

 

What is the best way of dealing with enlarged screw holes.

 

The item is a grand piano (150 years old) and the srews are to hold hinges in position so that the top can be held at an angle. The holes are in the top and the srews are half inch

 

Depends on the situation.

If it's a Piano Hinge, you can drill additional holes and install additional screws.

Or get a longer Piano Hinge and reposition it so the holes on the hinge fall in between the old holes.

If it's not a Piano Hinge, you can drill out the holes and plug them with dowels.

Glue in the dowels. Cut them off when the glue sets,reposition your hinge, and drill out the new holes.

Then reinstall the hinges.Another thing you can try is to install 5/8 " screws.

Regards,

Phil

Linseed Oil and Mineral Spirits will not cut throgh any dirt build up.

Start by removing the dirt build up.

Use a product like Fantastic.

Spray on.

Wipe off with clean cotton cloths.

Catch any drips right away.

After you remove all the dirt build up you then can clean the wood,

and then Restore the finish.

There are many guides on Cleaning and Restoring Furniture

on my Online Clinic.

The following list a few found on my Online Clinic

 

#13- Restoring Furniture

#17- The difference between Refinishing & Restoring Furniture.

#26- Removing scratches

#32- Concealing scratches

#65- Cleaning antique furniture

#83- Restoring a pine desk ( saving the finish ) preview

#84- Removing scratches & stains

If you are a subscriber to my Online Clinic, there are many guides that will provide helpful.

Including the following.

Hello Phil,

 

Any advice on dealing with water marks on a pine dresser?

 

Denatured Alcohol will work.

For a Ready Made Product try Restore-A-Finish

The Following link will help you.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

There are other guides that will help.

Use my search tool on my Online Clinic Page,

and punch in Remove Water Mark, or Restore.

Regards,

Phil

I prefer to make my own repair patch.

I have Veneer Punches, but I seldom use them.

There are at lease 2 examples of Repairing Veneer on My Online Clinic.

Hi Julie,

 

Here are your Options.

 

#1- You can try to Restore it.

click following link for example

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/wd50.htm

 

#2- You could cut out the damage area and replace it.

 

#3- You could cover the top with Tinted Plate Glass.

 

#4- Your last option would be to Refinish.

 

would like to know any methods for removing smoke damage from furniture and other antique wooden pieces. I have tried several different techniques with varying success. I want to avoid stipping any of the items if possible.

The method that has worked to best so far has been Minwax floor cleaner and oooo steel wool. This has worked on all but the most severly damaged surfaces.

Alcohol works a little. Any suggestions? Including veneered items as well.

Thanks,

Could you please advise me on how I am to get white paint out of the pours of an oak wood. I have already used heat and then a stripper product. The piece of furniture is an old Shaker style wash stand. Pine and oak.

                                              Standing by

                                                               Bud from Ottawa, Ont 

Dear Ray,

I would try to save the finish by Restoring it first.

For a before & after picture of a piece that has been Restored click the following link.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

 

Click link below to view my newsletter archives for more tips.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/nlbi1.htm

For further help with any questions,check out my Online Clinic.

NOW...For a Limited time only I am offering a One Month Test Trial Membership

to my Online Clinic.

Take advantage of this offer while it is still available.

There is nothing that can come close to my Online Clinic.

You will be learning what took me over 25 years of Trial & error to perfect.

This service is not like buying some book on Refinishing Furniture,where

they leave you hanging if you send them a question.

Most of the time you won't ever receive an answer..

I answer all questions the same day.

Some times with in minutes.

For a sneak preview of what you will learn,click on the following link.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

You will also find a Subscription Link on this page where you can subscribe.

Once I receive notice that you have become a subscriber to my Online Clinic,

I will send you an e mail with your own personal user name and password.

Enter them on my Password Protected area on my main web site below.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net

You will then be taken to my Online Clinic Site.

Once there,you can use the search tool found at the top of the page,and type in your question.

Presently, there are over 100 problem solving guides to help you.

After your One Month Trial, Pay Pal will e mail you

asking if you wish to cancel or continue with your subscription.

I am a strong believer in One Hand Washes The Other

and I am hoping that once you check out my Online Clinic

you will decide to continue with your subscription.

The subscription is only $29.97 per Month, and will be locked in

as long as you remain a subscriber.

You could pay $29,97 for just of just one of my guides.

Why pay for one guide when you can

have access to over 100 guides.

New guides are added as time permits at no extra charge.

Besides having access to all my guides, you will also

find many tips in my News letter & Q&A Page.

My News letter is published once a Month.

You Must subscribe to my News Letter to receive it.

My Q&A page is up dated once a week.

There is no extra charge for my News letter or my Q&A Service.

My Q&A Service is only available through a subscription

to my Online Clinic. I do not offer this service separately

Below you will find information on some of my guides.

One of my most informative guides is my Refinishers Diary.

Besides many tips, you will find Rules that I use to Refinish Furniture.

For information on my Refinishers Diary,,,, click link below....

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/refdiarypre.htm

 

The link below is a sample of my Q&A Service.

This is where I answer questions in detail.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/olcs.htm

Click below to see what you will learn on Refinishing your Kitchen Cabinets.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/kitchencabinets.htm

Learn the correct steps needed to insure your chairs stay glued.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

Below is a sample Newsletter

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/snl.htm

Learn how to Restore Furniture. ( You do not always need to Re Finish )

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

The two links below are some tips.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/august.htm

 

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/tips3.htm

For a complete list of all guides that are included,

in my Online Clinic, click link below.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

NOTE:- This is my only business...

When your ready to learn....

I'll be here for you...

Free Advice comes cheap...

Good Advice is Priceless...

You get what you pay for....

Regards,

Phil M Beaudet
http://thefurnituredoctor.net

 

Hi Murv & Bev,

Could be you didn't clean and prep the surface properly

before applying your protective coat of poly.

Your finish could be contaminated with silicon dirt or wax or all three.

If you applied your protective coat with a brush or cloth, they could of

contained dirt or dust.

Dust could of settled on the wet surface as it was drying.

If you applied a thick protective coat, your finish will take to

long to dry, permiting any dust to settle on the surface and getting

trapped in your finish.

 

I do not know what you did wrong.

Here are your options:

Your could live with it.

You could through a table cloth over it.

You could refinish and start from scratch.

 

If you decide to refinish

I offer profession step by step instructions that will guarantee professional results.

 

Hi Stephanie,

The damaged veneer can be repaired.

I have guides that will show you how.

 

 If you Refinish as is, with out correcting the worn off areas,

you will need to antique the worn areas to blend them in.

 

If you remove the veneer, you will find inferior wood beneath.

You could remove ALL the veneer and apply new veneer to match.

 

You could sand everything smooth, and either Antique or Paint completely.

 

It depends on what you're looking for.

How far do you want to go.

 

If I had pictures I could advise you further.

 

Regards,

Phil

 

Dear Charles & Mary,

 

You could darken it by Antiquing it or spraying a Toner spray.

 

Click link below to view my newsletter archives for more tips.

Hi Gloria,

You could use Black Wax Shoe Polish.

Can black lacquer furniture be painted? YES - Be sure to prep it before painting.I would use an Oil Paint.

 What are the procedures for this?--- Depends on the paint you use. Ask where you buy your paint

.

Hi Linda,

There is no easy way to remove paint from end grain,other then sanding or conceal with stain or paint.

I would use a stronger stripper such as Zip-Strip and put it on heavy,let it sit there for a while so it can do it's job,

then scrub the wood with a stiff brass brush.Repeat till results are met.

I have written a guide on Stripping Interior woodwork that will make your job go much smoother.

It can be found on the following link. http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm.

Hi Cheri,

The safest way is to strip them to avoid any problems.

It's not a good idea to apply a finish over another finish,

doing so may result in expansion & contraction problems

between the two finishes.

 

Hi again,

It is possible that the finish is Shellac, although manufactures don't usually use Shellac.

Maybe they were refinished at some time and Shellac was used then.

Where did you get the set?

Did you buy it yourself?

or did you get it secondhand.

Regards,

Phil

===================================================================

Question # 171 - My sister has a chopping block that is built into her counter top so it
> cannot be removed.  It has been neglected & consequently suffered mildew
> damage as a result.  What is the best way to remove the mildew & restore
> the surface?
>
> Thank you for your help.  She is going through a divorce & is working on
> getting her house ready to sell & she is trying to do these things on her
> own.  She apparently went to the local hardware store & was sold some wood
> stripper & some type of wood putty or paste & it did not work.  It only
> made the surface worse.  Any advice you could give would be greatly
> appreciated.

Answer - Hi Steve,
Apply bleach and scrap with a cabinet scrapper.
To restore....apply a few coats of salad oil and wipe dry.

 

========================================================================

Question # 172 -

I tried to make payment for a yearly enrollment for your clinc.  However, upon entering the credit number , I was notified that it was an invalid card number.  This is incorrect.  I would like to enroll.  How do we work this out?  Thanks,  Gordon

Answer -

===============================================================================

Question # 173 - Hi,
>
> I have two questions concerning an old dining room table that I sanded
> down last year:
>
> 1.   Despite all the sanding, I couldn't remove a few glass rings.  Any
> suggestions?
> 2.   In my delay in asking question #1, for the past year we have
> occasionally eaten off the table, which now, has left some grease marks on
> the sanded and unfinished surface.  What do you recommend for removing the
> grease?
>
> Thanks for your help!
>
> Karen Vachon

 

Answer - Hi Karen,
Use a Degreaser to remove the grease.
Use a balm sander starting with a 80 grit paper and then switch it a 150
grit then to a 200 grit.
You should sign up for my newsletter.....It's FREE.......... It's Loaded
with tips....
For further help with any questions, check out my Online Clinic.
 

===============================================================================

Question # 174 -

Hey Phil,

I just got your email on how to refinish my kitchen cabinets but i have a question?  I plan on painting my cabinets because they are old and cheap.  I would like to paint them an off white sort of color.  Is it ok to do this and what kind of paint would you recommend?.  I have 2 children so I need something that is almost chip resistant.  Someone told me that if i glaze them that would work.  What are your thoughts?

Thank you so much.

Mandy

PS.  do i need to strip all of the cabinets like your instructions said to do or is that necessary when painting them.  Right now they are stained.

 

Answer -

=========================================================================

Question # 175 -

Hi! I am in the process of stripping and refinishing an old dresser. My mom is 53 and it has been in the family for as long as she can remember. I know it belonged to my great grandmother, but not sure how old it is or where it came from, it may have even come from England with her parents. It has what we thought was carved wood on the top drawer and also around the edge and front of dresser. There were about 4 layers of paint. As the paint is coming off, I realize the design is made of some type or plaster or something. Just wondering if you know what it could possibly be and since we want to put a natural finish on it, how do we treat it? Can it be stained to match the wood? I am inserting a few pictures. Thanks

Cheryl

Answer -

====================================================================

Question # 176-

I am refinishing a cedar chest that has been antiqued. I put the stripper on and the first coat came of with the use of steel wool. I put the stripper on again after the first layer had been removed and wiped dry. It didn’t even touch the second layer. Is there something special that I have to do? Thanks for your advice.

Connie Suby

 

Mark Suby

 

Answer-

=======================================================================

Question # 177- Hi,
>
> My name is Kelly Burkom.  Do you also do refinishing yourself?  If not, do
> you
> know where in Halifax or Dartmouth I can find a quality refinisher to
> refinish
> a dining room set (table, chairs, hutch and cabinet)?
>
> Kelly Burkom

Answer- Hi Kelly,
I would punch your search in on your computer.
" Furniture refinishers in Halifax or Dartmouth MA."

Need some instructions on Furniture Refinishing ?
NOW...For a Limited time only I am offering a One Month Test Trial
Membership
 

==========================================================

Question # 178- I have two small matching dropleaf tables I'd like to strip and refinish. They have leather inlays. What special provoisons do I make for the leather?
 

Answer-

=====================================================

Question # 179-

Hi Phil,

 

I just received your email "Note from the Doctor" about the new Wicker Repair Clinic, and of course it piqued my interest. But I am not sure exactly how the one free week offer works. Do you have to subscribe to the monthly Clinic at $29.98 to get it, and we really can cancel after a month or two if we don't care to continue?

 

My second question deals with a reciprocal link, do you have them on your site and I just missed it? Because I would like to add your website link to my Antiques, Collectibles & Woodworking page of my site, but prefer to have reciprocal links in place with similar sites. Maybe we could strike some kind of deal with the above mentioned report or clinic on wicker repair?

 

I have been very impressed by your site and the Clinic concept and would like to implement something of the kind on my site, but not sure how to go about it. Until recently my site on Wicker, Seatweaving and Basketry primarily, has been on the Internet since 1999 as an information and resource site with no e-commerce. But with recent health problems with my husband, (he had a table saw accident in 2003 and cut off three fingers on his left hand and is in the construction/carpentry business), and high medical bills in excess of $33,000 with no insurance, makes it imperative that I begin to make some income from my site.

 

Could you perhaps offer some advice for me? I was wondering how successful you've been also at charging for these clinics, reports, or articles? Have you received many monthly subscribers or ones taking you up on the five year plan?

 

In January of this year, I started a paid Furniture Repair Directory listing of experts across the country in the fields of Wicker Repair, Seatweaving, Upholstery and Stripping & Refinishing, charging $35 annually for the ads. It has been quite successful and is taking off quite nicely, and I will be selling my deer antler baskets and basket patterns from my site soon, but don't have those pages up and running correctly yet. I've also started charging for the Cane & Basket Suppliers listings and hope to start charging for some "Reports" that I will be writing and selling for somewhere around $7.95 - 9.95 on the site soon.

 

Say, that reminds me, maybe we could swap the Wicker Repair article at $29.95 for an annual listing in the Stripping & Refinishing section of my Directory for $35, what do you say? Hope to hear back from you soon on all this, will appreciate any help or advice you can share. Thanks!

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
"The Net's Best Wicker, Caning & Basket Resource Information Site!"
The Wicker Woman/Cathryn Peters/1250 Hwy 25, Angora, MN 55703
Website: http://www.WickerWoman.com/
Blog: http://www.wickerwoman.blogspot.com
Ezine:  http://groups.yahoo.com/group/WickerWomansWeavings/
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

 

 

Answer-

=================================================================

Question # 180 -

Hi,

I am wondering how to repair my Chippendale antique table legs. My dog chewed off three of the bottom to bare wood. I really don't have a clue as to what to do next;They are claw bottom but the claws have been all but chewed off. Please help before I kill this DOG!

                                               Yours Truly,

                                           jeanette karsen

Answer -

For further help with any questions, check out my Online Clinic.

======================================================================

Question # 181 -Do you have quides on how to refinish/restore ratton furniture?  I have a
> very nice table and chairs and a matching loveseat which has received
> extensive sun damage.  I wanted to fix it for my daughrter's apartment.
> Thanks !  DPatti

Answer - Hi Debbie,
Rattan furniture can be refinished and restored, depending on the condition.
I have had many request on this subject.
I am in the process of writing such a guide and it should be available
on my Online Clinic by tomorrow.
I got some good news for you in the mean time.
For a limited time I am offering a one week Free Preview of
my Online Clinic.
Take advantage of this free offer while it is available.
The free offer will not last long.
To receive your one week free trial, click link below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
 Regards,
Phil
 

========================================================================

Question # 182 - Dear Dr. Phil,
>
> What a great idea for a website.
>
> I have a question about an antique walnut bed. I have the head and foot
> only, no side rails or slats, and would like to have sides and slats made.
> The hard part is that the metal pieces for receiving the side rails (the
> pieces embedded in the head and foot of the bed) are unusual. I have been
> told that I would have to have parts made to fit them, which is a very
> expensive option. A friend suggested that another option would be to have
> the current metal pieces removed and replaced.
>
> What would you suggest in a case like this? Is it possible to remove the
> existing hardware and replace it with something more common?
>
> Thank you for your time.
>
> Sincerely,
> Susan Forste

Answer -

==================================================================

Question # 183 - Hi Susan,
One suggestion would be to purchase a metal rail support system.
It would attach right to your head and foot boards.
Another suggestion would be to check out http://www.wsidistributors.com
they may have replacement parts

If you need more help with your project, check out my Online Clinic.

There you will find over 100 guides on Furniture Stripping,
Refinishing,Repairs, and Re upholstery.

Many guides have step by step pictures that will assist you from start to
finish.

I am promoting a special LIMITED TIME FREE  One Week offer.

Take advantage of this offer while it is still available.

Click below for more info.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm


Thank You for your question.

Warm Regards,

Phil M Beaudet

 

Answer -

============================================================

Question # 184 - hello Phil
>
> hope you are doing well. You may not recall but I emailed you a few weeks
> ago when I found your web site. I want to thank you for your prompt and
> personal reply.
> I wanted to ask your opinion about the franchise-Furniture Medic. I have
> been in contact with them about what they have to offer. What do you think
> about them?? Are they worth the investment? My wife and I are looking to
> relocate to Beaufort, SC by the end of this year. Furniture Medic has an
> opening in that area. I think that would be a good area for this type of
> business. i know that you must be busy and I really appreciate  what you
> are doing.
> I would also like to talk to you some time. When would be a good time??
> During the week, i do not get home until 6:30 or after.
>
> -take care
> Tim Ramsdell-
 

Answer - Hi Tim,
A Franchise is not for everyone.
It is NOT going to guarantee you success.
It is expensive.
With Most franchises you have to pay them a percent of your gross.
With Furniture Medic they may charge you a percentage of your gross.
I think at that time they did charged about 8% of your gross.
When I checked them out some years ago it would of cost me $12,000.00 plus
the cost of a van
which at that time was about $18,000.00.
Plus I would of had to pay Monthly royalty fees forever.
Plus they charge for national advertising, or they did so back then.
I decided to go it on my own.
I just didn't have the money.
I am not saying not to go with a franchise.
BUT I am telling you that you are still going to make mistakes.
There is no substitute for experience.
If I had it to do over again, I still would go on my own without a
franchise.
Bottom Line.... I would advise you to really think about this before jumping
into it.
I would keep a regular job and start off part time.
If you have a garage, it would be a great way to get started.
That is the way I started, but I did mostly chairs, regluing caning and
rushing.
It didn't take up much room.And after a while I got pretty good at it.
I made a lot of mistakes BUT that is the way you learn.
Later on I had a oil furnace installed, then enlarged using the money I made
from the refinishing business.
I added equipment as I grew.
A few years later I was on my own doing the business full time.
Your NOT going to learn this business without making mistakes even if you
invest $30,000.00
in a franchise.
People like you are the main reason why I started this Online Clinic,
plus... I don't have anyone to leave this business to, so I guess you could
say
that my subscribers are like family and families stick together...
If you decide to join me on my Online Clinic, I will help you all I can.
Even if you decide to go the franchise route, I'll still be there for you.

If you want to discuss this matter over the phone, I am up till 10 o'clock
or later.

Warm Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net

 

=============================================================

Question # 185 -

I recently acquired a desk and chair that are abou 40 years old.  At first glance, the top appeard to be slightly bowed.  Actually, I discovered the entire piece is warped.  The 2 legs opposite the drawers are about 1inch off the floor.  The drawers seem to fit fine and when you look at them there are no gaps between the drawers and the desk.  Is there anything I can do to straighten this desk out or is it a lost cause?  Also, it has a veneer top.  Is there a way to remove that and just stain or paint the wood that is under the veneer?  Thanks, Carolyn

Answer -

=============================================================

Question # 186 - To the Furniture Doctor:
>
> I have a 50's piano (Acrosonic by Baldwin) with dark mahoghany finish.
> It has several dated features that are not appealing to me at all.  It
> was the piano I learned on as a child.  I would like to either paint it,
> paint it and use a faux finish, stencilling etc. or take off the finish,
> hoping for a lighter more attractive natural look.  I have looked at the
> area around the keys and have  pretty much decided that I could not "mess
> with" that area, just paint or strip the other areas.  What are your
> suggestions, if any.
>
> Thank you,
> Carole Young
 

Answer- Hi Stephen,
I would not strip it,unless it really needed it.
I would first try to save the finish, by Restoring it.
A flaux Finish would need a good deal of prep work.
If you do not remove the finish before applying your flaux finish,
the flux finish may chip....
Although it is the easiest way to solve your problem, it is NOT
something that I would recommend.
If your present finish is in that bad shape, then I would strip
it completely,and start from scratch.
This way you have more control.
To insure that your job runs smoothly.
I offer you a set of rules that I have been using most of my life.
You will find the rules in  my Online Clinic, listed under
my Refinishers Diary.
If you are already a subscriber to my Online Clinic, you can go there now.
If your not a subscriber,you should consider joining.
It's like anything else in life....If you know what your doing, it's a heck
of
a lot easier.
It's no fun learning the hard way.

NOW...For a Limited time only I am offering a One Month Test Trial
Membership

to my Online Clinic.

Take advantage of this offer while it is still available.
 

=============================================================

Question # 187 -

What is the best stripper to get paint off of wood?

 

Debi

Answer -

====================================================================

Question # 188 -

I want to buy your guide for refinishing kitchen cabinets. However I want to paint my cabinets. Does you guide  touch painting the cabinets. How can i spray my cabinets because i am afraid it will go inside the cabinet. Thanks

Shahid
 

Answer -

========================================================================

Question # 189 - hi ----
i have a 40 inch dining room table top and another table that have a build
up of turpentine and linseed oil. they also have stains and marks from 40+
years of use (abuse.)
both pieces are oil walnut.
i would like to clean them up and perhaps do a tung oil finish. am not sure
if they would require staining also.
thank you for any advice you may offer as to how i would go about this.

sandra smith

Answer - Hi Sandra,
You may be able to Restore it with out having to refinishing it.
Check out the link below for a before and after picture.

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm
 Regards,

 Phil

 

=========================================================================

Question # 190 -

hello. hope all is well with you. I was wondering if you knew anything about taking out worps from old pieces.I have a oak square table that is worped in the middle of it and i cant the worp out of it.Can we fix it?ty for your email on wicker but i usussley just work on wood pieces. ANY ADVISE ON STRIPPING AND REFINISHING WOULD BE GREATLY APP. TY 
                                                                                   BONNIE SMITH
phantom2@charter.net wrote:

To all paid subscribers to my Online Clinic: There is a new guide available for your viewing. " How to Repair Restore and Refinish Wicker and Rattan Furniture"
If you are not a paid subscriber I have a special offer for you.
For a limited time I am offering a Free one week trial to my Online Clinic.Now is your chance to check it out.
This free offer will not last so take advantage of it while it's available.
Regards,
Phil
http://thefurnituredoctor.net

 

 

Answer -

======================================================================

Question # 191 -

Hi,

I see the advice you have given other and I hoped that you might point me in the right direction...

I have an OLD dining table that has lots of detail to it...for the most part its in good shape, but you can see that is does have it's wear and tear on it...I'm just getting my house in order to use it in my formal dining room...and I need to do some work on it...the table top itself it where the problem lies....Im not exactly sure how to describe this so bare with me, and I hope I explain well..the table top where you would eat has some small strips on wood that have peeled off and have since been discarded, prior to my getting the table...and so there are chuncks of wood that have peeled up...it seems to have a thin layer of this wood that looks to be doing it on other areas of the table...I was wondering what I could do to get the table smooth and to one layer? Can is peel the rest of tis top layer off then sand it down re-stain and varnish, or is there an easier way to get this table top lookin good again....I look forward to your advice and I thank-you for your time.

 

Pete Garcia

 

Answer -

NOW...For a Limited time only I am offering a One Month Test Trial

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Question # 192 -

I have a dark oak dining table and four chairs (circa 1920's) but do not like the dark colour.  What would be the best way to strip off the dark oak staining and take the set down to a lighter colour?

Answer -

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Question # 193 -

Where can I purchase legs with a ball roller on the bottom for a chair on which that part is broken?

Answer -

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Question # 194 -

I have a drop leaf dining table with chairs.  It has a veneer that was blonde and has been varnished with a stain-varnish that is an orangey-brown (a color that I do not like).  I would like to get the table back to a blonde because I want it to match my cabinets.  I have not chosen the cabinet finish yet, and am wondering if it is possible to get the varnish off and keep the blonde or if it is possible to get all of the finish out and start over.  What  products would be the best to use, and do you have any helpful suggestions?

 

Mary

Answer -

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Question # 195 -Phil....
>
> I'm planning to convert a 1940's mahogancy dresser to a bathroom vanity,
> and if possible want to keep the top the current wood rather than covering
> to entire dresser with stone such as granite (the top is solid, not
> veneer).  I will be using a drop-in sink, not an undermount, (so no or
> less problem of exposed end-grain in direct water contact), but I know it
> will be impossible to avoid any contact with water on the surface.  Advice
> I have had so far is to give the top a very light rub with -00 steel wool
> and denatured alcohol, and then use an oil-based poly on the top, with
> heavier coats on the cut-thru edges of the sink cut out in addition to
> doing a very good caulking job on the sink edge when I drop it in.
>
> I can't tell from your website listing if one of your guides would cover
> this...  any advice would be appreciated....
>
> My back-up plan if what I do does not work, and a problem appears with the
> top, would be to then go the granite top route...so all would not be lost
> in case of a problem down the road...
>
> Thanks
>
> John
>
 

Answer -Hi John,
No finish is water proof, just water resistant.
Why look for trouble....
Go with the granite.
Regards,
Phil
 

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Question # 196 -

I just sanded and painted my kitchen table black. I would like to "beat it up" a little and fill in the marks with a little

white paint.  Do you have any tips or suggestions on how to make this look antiqued or do you think this is a bad

idea?? 

Answer -

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Question # 197 -

How can you remove the hard putty around the glass pieces on the doors of an antique hutch?

 

Thanks,

Carol Riggs

Answer -

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Question # 198 -

Dear Furniture Doctor,

My friend and I received some old furniture as part of payment for cleaning a house.  The furniture was very old and had the old, dark, almost black finish on it.  We went to the local hardware store and bought some stripper.  After removing the finish, we found that the wood was beautiful and stained two-tone.  We were placing a fresh coat of poly-urethane on the dresser when one of her friends showed up and said that we had ruined the furniture.  That taking the finish off makes the furniture loose it’s value as an antique.  Is this true?  We have not changed the original color of stain, nor have we changed its function or physically changed it.

 

Confused in WI,

Lynette

Answer -

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Question # 199 -Dear Phil,
>
> From your website, it is not clear to me how to get your A-7 guide or how
> to
> get the one wek free online help. At one place, I see the A-7 costs $9.95.
> Another placed looks like the only possibility is the one month
> subscription. Either way is ok with me but I want to be sure to get the
> most
> complete infornation. I have a somewhat valuable oak table from first
> decade
> 20th century. It looks like it has been hand stripped and will need a new
> finish. I would like to know how to get a high quality finish a bit darker
> than the natural oak color. Please advise me as to how to get the best
> information from your resources.
>
> Fred Zenone

Answer -Dear Fred,
You have reached an outdated version of my website.
For the latest updates go to http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
I would suggest subscribing for a month and use what ever information
that pertains to your project.
There are now over 100 guide to help you.
Regards,
 Phil
 

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Question # 200 -

Will your Online Clinic help me to start my own business if I am handicapped?

Answer -If you have the use of your hands you can do chair repairs

such as regluing, caning, and rushing. It's clean work and it pays well.

Besides many people find it relaxing.

Check out the following link for more info.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

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 For Questions # 201 to 233  click here

 

 

 

 

 

 

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