Hi, I have a 1960’s teak couch. We are planning on recovering but during our move the leg snapped off.  I am looking for someone to fix it or help me come up with another solution which there could be several. Your site lists only refinishing.  Do you repair as well?

-Aleta

Answer - YES... I Repair Furniture as well as Refinish and also Reupholster Furniture. As far as your broken leg, some legs are added on, other legs are part of the frame. The add on legs should be simple to replace, they just screw on. If the leg is part of the frame, you will need to be able to get at it. Some time that involves removing some of the fabric to expose the break. In the break is hidden, you can reinforce it with out it being seen. If the break is visible it will take more time to fix, depending on the angle of the break. I would either send me a picture or have a Pro. look at it before you attempt to repair it. If you mess it up, it's going to cost you more when you have a pro. repair it. It may require a spline joint or possible a new leg.

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Question # 134 -

Hi, I could use some advice. I've been trying to varnish a piece of furniture for the past week without success. It is a 1930's buffet server (typically used in the kitchen) that I bought at a flee market. I cut a whole in the top for a drop in sink, and was going to use it for a really cool bathroom vanity. I've been recommended to use marine varnish on the top to prevent water damage, so I bought Captains Zspar Varnish and got to work. I wanted to keep its look / color / patina, so I didn't want to strip it down to bare wood, and so my adventure begins...

<1> 600grit W/D sandpaper til dull, wipe with damp cloth, varnish... result fish eyes.
<2> steel wool, and more varnish on top of 1rst fish eye coat... same fish eyes.
<3> 320grit W/D sandpaper down til dull, beyond fish eye depth, wipe clean -w- mineral spirits, and varnish .. result fish eyes.
<4> steel wool, wipe clean -w- mineral spirits, thin varnish -w- mineral spirits and apply... result fish eyes.
<5> surface prep -w- cleaner (I think its acetone like stuff), it takes off all the previous varnish and surface shine and get the surface nice and ready, varnish... result.. yup fish eyes.

What do I need to do? Go with Polyeurothane? Strip til bare wood? Please help.

Thanks.

-Dave

Answer - Go to  http://thefurnituredoctor.net/consultation.htm  for consultation

 

 

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Question # 135 - work as an upholsterer for Hardens furniture. I have recently started taking side jobs and was trying to find a site that would give me specifications on reupholstering antique furniture so that the anitquity is not comprimised. Would you be able to help me or tell me where I could look thank you for your time.  Bill Richards

Answer - 

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Question # 136 - How do I remove a wax finish from a coffee table I have.

Answer - Denatured Alcohol or Restore-A-Finish

=================================================

Question # 137 - >I have a 1950's diner table, I have included a picture and it is wobbly-- I
> am wondering how I could secure it so it doesn't shake--- if you have any
> suggestions I would love to hear them, or if you know anyone I should
> write
> to-- let me know- I have googled thiws to death-- I am still coming up
> short
> of solutions---
>
> I have attached some photos of the legs-- thanks...
>
> Thank-priscilla
>

Answer - Try inserting thin pieces of veneer, or force some hot glue into the loose
areas.
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Question # 138 - I recently bought an old 5-drawer dresser at a yard sale. I sanded it
> down, primer and painted it.
> I would like to add knobs but do not know where to place them. Each drawer
> has 2 knobs. The original did not have any knobs of pulls, so I don't know
> where to drill the holes for them
>
> Tony Mariella

Answer - I would install them centered,with each knob measured 2 to 4 inches from the
side of the drawers.Depending on how wide the drawers are.
Regards,
Phil
=================================================================

Question # 139 - Hello,
> I have what is probably a very simple question, I just do not know where
> to go for the answer.  I am working on antique painted wood and I am
> trying to find a very clear FLAT top coat that will not cloud the paint
> underneath.  I really do not want to use polyurethene since I am working
> on antiques.  I do not need any special duribility as the items are for
> show and not use.  I was wondering if you could recommend a dead flat
> thin oil based varnish, lacquer or shellac that would work well and be
> appropriate for something 100 years old.  Thank you.
> Russell

Answer - Hi Russell,
You would be safe to use either flat varnish or shellac.
Regards,
Phil

======================================================

Question #140 -

Answer -

=================================================

Question # 141 -

Answer -

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Question # 142 - My mothers house was burned  recently, and she had a lot of antique Oak furniture. Most of the furniture has a lot of smoke damage. Can it be cleaned and the can the smell be taken out

Answer - YES.... Contact a Refinisher that specializes in that type of Restoration

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Question # 143 - have some furniture that I inherited from my Mom but they are in need of some serious cleaning.  I was told to use linseed oil and mineral spirits but not sure.  This furniture is from the 1930s and has never been cleaned really good and has 70 some years of cigarette smoke exposure.  Please help!

Answer -

=======================================================================

Question # 144 -

Greetings:

 

In July 2001, I purchased a beautiful Hitchcock dining set from an estate sale. It has the gold leaves and flowers in each corner of the table and on the chair backs, as well as the doors of the hutch. Beautiful. In any case, the table had a huge wax build up from years of the previous owner using pledge, or some similar product. I removed all the buildup, using techniques  recommended by furniture manufactures' websites, including the Hitchcock site.

 

After I had removed the buildup, unfortunately, we had some construction done in the house - we were not living here at the time, and the construction workers marred the top of the table by leaving coffee cups or whatever on the table top. There was a tablecloth covering the surface, but the white rings are there, nevertheless.

 

I cannot seem to remove the white rings, no matter how I try, using mayonnaise, cooking oil, etc. Additionally, the remainder of the table seems cloudy, compared to the leaves which still have the original pledge shiny surface. Here is what I would like to do - based on your recommendations.

 

I would like to know other techniques for removing said water rings, as well as restoring the table top to a satin type finish that would be quite durable. Presently, I keep the surface covered with tablecloths to protect against damage, however, this is unsatisfactory for such a wonderful piece of furniture. Is there a technique, short of polyurethene, that would create a durable finish? What about tung oil? I have used that to restore other pieces of furniture and it seems to provide a durable surface. I would still use placemats, occasionally a tablecloth, and certainly, hot pads; I am not attempting to make the table into "formica". I would just like to enjoy its beauty, without the ever present tablecloth for protection.

 

Thank you for your assistance with this matter. 

 

Answer -

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Question # 145 -

Answer -

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Question # 146 - What are your feelings about veneer punches? Would you prefer to use a punch or cut a triangular patch for repairs?

Answer -

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Question # 147 - Doc - I am attaching a picture of a dining room table that is very old and
> needs some work.  The veneer is off in a couple of spots.  Will a
> subscription to your site provide me with enough information to handle the
> refinishing of this myself.  I got an estimate from someone in town, but
> the
> cost was $1500 for the table, $175 to refinish each chair, $100 to reglue
> each chair if necessary and finally $125 to recover the chair seats with
> the
> cost including the fabric.  I also need to work on the oak trim in my
> howse,
> primarily baseboards and kitchen cabinets.  Will a subscription cover
> these
> items as well.
>
> Thanks for your help.

Answer - Sorry I couldn't get back to you sooner.
I looked at your pictures.
You have a lot of work ahead of you.
Break it down into stages.
Do all your repairs first.
Repair your veneer.
You will find guides covering how to replace veneer
on my Online Clinic.
From the pictures, it looks like it's possible to save your finish
instead of Refinishing,which will save a lot of time.
The link below will give you an example.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

There is a guide I wrote on just Stripping & Refinishing Interior Woodwork.

Also you will find a guide on How to Refinish Kitchen Cabinets.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/kitchencabinets.htm
It's one of my most popular guides.

If there is one subject I know, it's how to reglue chairs.
I wrote a guide on it, it is very detailed,more info below.
http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/how_to_reglue_chairs.htm

After you subscribe,and before you start,Please read and
be sure you understand everything before starting.
My guides are very detailed.
If there is anything that you do not understand,
contact me.I am usually right here at my computer.

You will find a link to subscribe,along with a complete list of
guides that are contained in my Online Clinic below.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

NOTE: Besides having access to over 100 guides,
 I try to answer most question the same day.

Regards,
Phil

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Question # 148 - What's the difference between Restoring & Refinishing ?

Answer - Usually you Restore Antiques by cleaning it up, touching up scratches & dings, and saving the finish.You could apply a finish over the original if the original finish was mostly gone with out damaging the value.

Refinishing means to remove the original finish and start from scratch, and apply a new stain and finish.

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Question # 149 - What do they mean by Colored Finishes, or Fake Finishes ?

Answer -  Colored finishers are colors that are added to the lacquer and sprayed on. Fake finishes are some form on imitation finish such as an antique finish.

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Question # 150 - I have a end table that is all scratched up. I like the finish,and would like to keep it but how do I remove all the scratches? Please Help. Thanks Mary

Answer - You could conceal the scratches. click the following link to learn more 

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/rs6407.htm

 

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Question # 151 - 

Answer - 

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Question # 152 - I am working on a small entry table. The joints need to be re-glued.
They put a t-nail through the tenon. What is the best way to remove a
nail or broken screw.

Thanks
Sonny Pettijohn

Answer - Some times you can force the joint apart with a reverse clamp. If the joint breaks, then you glue it. Other times you will need to dig the nail or screw out. Once the nail or screw is out, and the joint reglued, you can drill a hole in the area where the screw was and install a wood button. There is no easy way.

================================================

Question # 153 - have a small, mahogany gate leg table which I had stripped.  I was told to finish it with polyurethane, but I'm not sure that's appropriate.  I like a low gloss finish and think maybe it should just be oiled.  What do you suggest? 

Answer - The advantage of an oil finish is that it is easy to apply. Another advantage is if you get a scratch, you need only to apply more oil, and it will cover the scratch. I would use an Oil Finish on pieces that do not get much use. I would not use it on a table top, such as a Kit. Table.

The disadvantage is that it doesn't offer much protection. You will need to re apply maybe once a year, because it will dry out. An Oil Finish will soak into the wood. An Oil Finish could collect a lot of dust.

The advantage of a Poly Finish is it's tougher, and will not scratch easy. In your case, I would use a Poly Finish. You will find many guides on my Online Clinic that will help you in applying a finish. My Refinishers Diary would be a good place to start.

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Question # 154 - 

Answer  I would use Paint Thinner with clean cloths or fine #2 steel wool on stubborn areas. Keep the surface wet while rubbing LIGHTLY with cloths or the steel wool. You could also try Restore-A-Finish. The main thing is to KEEP THE SURFACE WET AT ALL TIMES while rubbing. Removing any Odors will be found on my Online Clinic. NOTE: Any loose Veneers should be re-glued first, before applying the Paint Thinner. Not to worry....Paint Thinner will not hurt your finish. 

===================================================

Question # 155 - 

Answer - Apply a paste stripper such as Zip- Strip, let it sit there for a few minutes, then scrub with a stiff wire brush LIGHTLY. Repeat if necessary. You can also use # 2 Steel Wool. On stubborn areas, heat your stripper to 70 degrees. I use a 5 gallon pail with a pail heater attached to it. Make sure your work room is heated to 65 - 70 degrees too. You may need to spray a toner in the color of your choice to conceal any paint that couldn't be removed. Another trick is to use the pigment that settles to the bottom of a can of oil stain to cover any remaining paint. Since your piece of furniture is made of both Pine and Oak, using a toner will also blend in the differences, giving a more consistent look. If you plan on finishing the piece natural, you will need to remove all of the paint. If this is the case, repeat the stripping instructions above till results are met. If your case, I would not use a liquid stripper. They dry out to quickly.

=====================================================

Question # 156 -> I purchased a "pickled" oak server and wish to refinish it
> to match a painted/distressed hutch.  How do I begin?  Do I
> need to strip the item or may I sand the item? My plan is to
> paint, distress and restain finally adding a poly finish.  I
> would assume that I would sand after painting for the
> purpose of the stain and then lightly sand again just before
> and during the poly finishes. Please direct me on the best
> way.  Thank you.

Answer -There are two ways to accomplish this. The first way is to put your new finish right over your old finish. You will need to clean and prep the surface completely first to remove all contaminations like dirt wax and silicon which will produce negative reactions.

Your second choice would be to completely refinish and start from scratch. Although this way involves much more time, it would be the best way in the long run.

To match your finish, take a drawer to your local paint dealer and they will custom mix paint to match the drawer.

You will find directions on prepping stripping and refinishing, on my refinishers diary and my Illustrated guides.

If you need more help contact me.

======================================================

Question # 157 -

Help!  My black lacquer dining table has lots of little scratches.  Is there any way to rub these scratches out or to have it refinished?   Thanks.

 

Joan

Answer -A Pro. would buff out the scratches for a reasonable price. In a pinch you could try applying black shoe wax and wiping dry. Sometimes spraying on a thin coat of finish will fill in the scratches. If all else fails, you would need to refinish.

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Question # 158 - have a Cherry coffee table I bought for $40 bucks at a yard sale that had a plastic mat on it for a while to protect the finish  Not it has a pattern of splotches across the top.  Do you know how to fix this?

Answer - Often you can restore the top by rubbing it out. Begin by flooding the top with a lubricant to protect the surface. You can use paint thinner in a pinch. Next start rubbing LIGHTLY  using #2 steel wool, with the grain to remove the splotches. It is very important to keep the surface WET while rubbing. After all the splotches have been removed, apply a light coat of paste wax and buff. If this method doesn't work, you will need to strip off the finish and refinish, or some people prefer to cover the top with clear or colored plate glass.

=============================================

Question # 159 -

Answer  - Here are your options:

#1 - Leave the piece out doors with all the doors open and the drawers removed.

#2 - Seal everything inside with a spray shellac or other sealer.

This includes the insides of all the drawers too.

#3 - Place a bag of cedar chips inside the cabinet to conceal the odor.

#4 - Clean the exterior to remove any possible mildew or odor,

with a hand full of TSP mixed with warm water then apply a

wax to trap any possible odor.

=============================================

Question # 160 -

My husband set a hot baked potato on the table top for a few minutes.  When he picked it up there are now very white blotches in the finish.  Is there anything I can do to repair this without having the table refinished?  The table was built in the 30's or 40's.  I believe over the years it has been cared for with waxes, oils, and polish.

 

I hope you can help me.

 

Thank you.

 

Gloria

Answer - The white blotches are from moisture that is trapped in your finish, To Restore your finish you can use Restore-A-Finish or Retorz-it. Sometimes you can remove the white blotches by flooding the surface with paint thinner and rubbing LIGHTLY with FINE # 0000 steel wool.

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Question # 161- hello Phil
>
> my name is Tim Ramsdell.  I came across your web site this evening. I
> amthinking about starting my own business and getting into furniture
> repair.
>
> some info about my background:  I am 53 years old. I spent 25 years with
> Thomasville Furniture in manufacturing. I was a plant manager in 3
> different factories in VA and NC. In my factories, we made case
> goods--bedroom, dining room, entertainment centers, and wall systems. At
> the end of 2002, I was forced to leave T'ville when they shut down another
> factory in their continued effort to move manufacturing offshore.
> Currently I am plant manger for a lighting manufacturer and importer in
> Roanoke,VA. I am not satisfied with this job. I have thought for some time
> about starting my own business doing something I have experience in.
> I would like to have your input about my idea.
> I am also very interested in getting your guides. How much would it be for
> your entire set of guides??  Where would be  a good place to start this
> kind of thing geographically?
>
> I look forward to hearing from you
> Tim

Answer - Hi Tim,
I think your idea is very practical.
You are going through what I experienced 25 or so years ago.
Working for yourself is the way to go.
More today then ever.
I would start off small, just to get your feet wet.
There is plenty of information on my Online Clinic that will help you.
You have a strong background in furniture manufacturing, so you
understand how furniture is made.
Don't wait till your 65 years old to start your own business.
Check out your competition and what they charge.
When first starting out charge accordingly.
I would pick up some through aways and practice on them.
I would suggest starting off by repairing chairs.
You could reglue them and also later on try your hand at caning
and rushing chairs, which is becoming a loss art.
Not to many people know how to do either of them.
It doesn't take up much room, and you won't have to invest
in a lot of money to get started.
The money is good.
For example: I get $55.00 at lease to glue one chair.
and it takes me 20 minutes.
I get $ 150.00 to cane or rush one chair.
It takes me 3 to four hours.
You asked what all of my guides cost...
You can either subscribe by the month for around $20.00 per month.
Or subscribe for 5 years at $129.00
Which ever you prefer.
The first week is free, no matter which option you choose.
If you decide to do some stripping, you don't need a tank.
I do all my stripping by hand.
It takes longer but it is the best and safest way for the wood.
Keep your regular job while learning.
You can grow as fast as you want.
I'll help you all I can.
I will be looking forward to hearing from you.
Regards,
Phil

 

=================================================

Question # 162 - Hi, I'm interested in learning the trade so I can start my own business.
> Will your site give me the information I need to be proficient enough to
> compete in a professional sense?
>
>                                                          Thanks,
 

Answer - Hi Kevin,
Tell me a little about yourself.
Do you have any experience?
What are you mainly interested in?
What are your goals?
How much competition is there in your area?
What is the population in your area?
Do you have a outside heated work area or a place to set up shop?
Do you now work full time?
How much do you need to make per week?
I advise you to start part time and keep your full time
job till you get established.
Exactly what do you want to learn in the business?
Why do you want to start your own business?
What phase of refinishing are you interested in?
Repairs, Touch Up, Refinishing, Restoring, Stripping, Making Parts,
Are you interested in Shop Work Only? Residential Work ? Commercial Work?
I have subscribers who have started their own business using the information
in my Online Clinic, and most of them are still with me.
I would suggest you take advantage of my one week free trial and
check it out.
The biggest benefit about joining is support. I answer all questions the
same
day, sometimes with in minutes.
I am also a member of Professional Refinishers Group, which will also help
you.
They are highly qualified in every phase of Refinishing & Repairs.
Get back to me as soon as you can, so we can get started.
Looking forward to working with you.
Phil M Beaudet
http://thefurnituredoctor./net
phil@thefurnituredoctor.net

Phil,

        Thankyou for your reply.


Q:  Tell me a little about yourself.

A:  I am a part time janitor at night.  I have a little bit of construction and carpentry experience.


Q:  Do you have any experience?

A: No


Q:What are you mainly interested in? 

A:  Not sure.  I like the idea of working by myself, having my own hours, and making good money.


Q:What are your goals?

A:  I would like to learn the trade and eventually start a business with my girlfriend.  My girlfriend would run the business and I would do the labor involved.

Q:How much competition is there in your area?

A:  There are about ten businesses under repair and refinishing in the phonebook for the Eugene, Or. Springfield and surrounding areas. 


Q: What is the population in your area?

A:  Not sure, but I am located in the city of Springfield, Oregon which is right next to Eugene, Oregon and this is a fairly large city.


Q:Do you have an outside heated work area or a place to set up shop?

A: No.  But I have a fairly large back yard where I could build something.


Q: Do you work full time?

A: No, part time from 5:30-9:30PM.


Q:  How much do you need to make per week?

A:  I would like to make at least $500 a week.


Q:Exactly what do you want to learn in the business?

A:  Whatever is necessary to run a profitable full-time residential business.


Q:Why do you want to start your own business?

A: So I can make good money and work at home.


Q:What phase of refinishing are you interested in?

A:  Whatever makes sense for someone starting out without any experience.  Whatever I should learn first.


Q:Are you interested in shop work only?  Residential work?  Commercial Work?

A:  I would like to work from my home doing projects for people's home furniture.

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Phil, thanks again for your help.


                                   Kevin Hayes

 

=========================================================

Question # 163 -

Good morning! I have an end table with a veneer top. It has water marks and other small damages. I would like to either refinish this top or replace the veneer. Can I strip the top surface with remover and then I apply a substance to the veneer to add protection and what should I use? Many thanks for any help . Ray

Answer -

======================================================

Question # 164 -

We attempted to sand and apply a protective coating (poly)on a dining room table.  However, once the poly dried the table appeared to have little bumps or pits in it.  We resanded and reapplied the poly, to no avail.  The table feels smooth after we sand it and wipe it down with mineral spirits, however, once it dries it appears pitted or rough.  Any suggestions? Thanks.

Answer -

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Question # 165 -

Dear Phil,

I have a 50 year old Basset bedroom set that is coated in veneer.  The dressers are in very poor condition and I was wondering if there is any way to refinish them if the veneer has worn off in numerous areas.  Is there a way to remove the veneer and stain the wood underneath?  Thanks

 

Stephanie

 

Answer -

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Question # 166 -

I have a "old" bedroom set that is oak with a veneer finish.  Can I strip this piece of furniture with a "stripper" and then sand lightly after it is dry, or do I just sand it lightly?  I would love to darken the color on it also.  Is this possible?

Answer -

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/nlbi1.htm

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Question # 167-

What is a good way to touch up black lacquer furniture?  Also, can black lacquer furniture be painted?  If so, what are the procedures for this?

Thank you, Gloria 

Answer-

=======================================

Question # 168-

I am re-doing our great room, by stripping the doors and windows of white latex

paint and staining them red mahogany.  So far, they haven't been too bad, as

the wood is a good wood.  Now I am stripping the open staircase ledge which

are 2x7 boards.  I have stripped them 4 times so far with Citrus Strip and then

cleaned it with equal parts denatured alcohol and lacquer thinner using a stripping

pad.  But, after I wipe them down with water to get rid of the saw dust, I am

seeing a little bit of white in certain places, and then also at the cut ends. 

I don't really see it unless it is wet.  Does this mean there is still white paint

there?  I am so flustered and don't want to make the mistake I made in the

beginning of staining after only one stripping. Boy, did I have a mess to

try to strip then!!  I have already done a good sanding job with my electric

sander, and I don't want to go thru the clean-up I had after the first

sanding.  I covered my furniture, but still had a mess everywhere else.

PLEASE HELP!!

                                                       Thank you,

                                                      

Answer-

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Question # 169-

I have an Ashley dining set that is only a few years old, but I’m toying with the idea of painting the chairs.

 

The set is a simple “farm” looking style made of pine with a natural finish.  It is coated with something like poly.  Would I have to strip the chairs before painting?  What other steps would I need to consider.  If I do this, I will probably paint them black and do a little distressing with sandpaper.

 

Any advice would be appreciated.

 

Thanks,

Cheri Harrison

Answer-

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Question # 170-

Hi,

We have some old dining chairs (maybe 30 years old?). I don’t know what the finish on them is, but over the years it has deteriorated to become VERY sticky & soft. You can’t clean the stickiness off with soap, scrubbing, or anything else I’ve tried. I haven’t yet tried a stripper because I don’t really want to totally strip & refinish the chairs if I don’t have to…but this is a big problem for us; we already got rid of the matching dining table because the finish on the top of it was so sticky that you had to keep a tablecloth on it all the time and the fuzz from the tablecloths would not come out of the finish!

Is there anything I can do short of refinishing the chairs to fix this problem, or should I just get some paint stripper and sandpaper and set to work?

Thanks,

Tirzah Harper

Answer-