Free Tips To Refinishing, Restoring, and Repairing Furniture
From The Files Of

Publisher of Furniture Refinishing How To Guides
Q & A # 1
This page answers Questions up to 85
New questions & answers are added weekly
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This page is where I answer all my e-mail questions on furniture refinishing and repairs
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#1-Question - What type of glue do you recommend to reglue chairs. I reglued a chair and it did not stay glued.
I am not sure if it was the glue or something else I did wrong.
Answer- It may be because you didn't clean the joints well enough, or your joints didn't fit properly.
I use gorilla glue or tite-bond glue.
How old is your glue?? Glue does have a shelf life!!!
#2-Question - Which is better to use on furniture? regular lacquer or poly.?
Answer- Poly. Regular lacquer will break down sooner.
#3-Question- Which brand stripper do you recommend
Answer- Zip-strip
#4 - Question - How do I find out if my grandmother's dining room set (purchased in the 1920's) is worth restoring? I live in a suburb of Detroit, Michigan.
Answer -
Question #6 -I
have furniture in good shape except a couple of pieces have mold/mildew in
a few small places. Can you tell me what I can use to clean the pieces off
without hurting the finish?
Answer -
Question #7
Answer -
Question -#8
> I hope you can give me some advice.
I had a plastic foam-backed table pad
on
> my pine dining room table under the table cloth. The foam
rubber has
> deteriorated and is now stuck on the finish of the table. We
can rub off
the
> top layer of the foam rubber, but there is still a coating on the
table.
We
> have tried mineral spirits, goo gone, and Afta. Can you give
any advice
as
> to how to go about removing this mess?
> Thanks for your help.
Answer -Paint thinner would of been my first
suggestion.
But you say you tried it.
Well !!!!!! I would try it again.
This time soak the top with it and keep it wet, while rubbing with # 002
steel wool.
If #002 isn't doing the job, switch to a coarser grade.
Use light pressure.
Clean up with clean cloths.
Repeat till results are met.
Remember to keep it wet while rubbing.
When all is removed, apply paste wax to bring back luster.
Question -#9 > I have an old credenza I am
looking to refinish. The problem is it is
> covered with some veneer. I cannot decide if I should attempt to
strip it
> with some type of stripper or sand it. It also has some water and
warn
spots
> on it. I guess my question is can I use stripper on veneer or will
it
damage
> the credenza?
Answer - The stripper won't do any damage IF
the veneer is in tack.
Make any repairs on your veneer before you strip.
You DO NOT remove the finish with sandpaper.
Any water damage will need to be treated separately, after stripping.
Worn areas can be touched up also after stripping.
Extra care is needed when working with veneer.
There are many factors involved in refinishing that must be followed, in
order to produce professional results.
Each step in refinishing needs to be completed thoroughly, before moving
to
the next step, or your going to run into problems. Problems that are
difficult
to correct.
Refinishing with out a guide to follow and learning by trial and error
can
be frustrating.
I can attest to that, I learned by trial and error and went through some
frustration times.
When I first started this business over 20 years ago, I could not find
any
books or guides that were thorough.
They just did not give me enough information.
If I had any questions, I had no one to turn to.
As I learned by trial and error I started to put everything down on
paper, so
other people could benefit from my experience.
I decided to write these reports about 5 years ago.
I write them in easy to follow step-by-step DETAILED instructions, with
FREE
consultation e mail support.
So YOU have some one that you can turn to when you have a question.
To local viewers I also offer one-on-one refinishing clinics.\
Question #10 - I am considering refinishing our
kitchen cabinets, have done some
> antiques in the past, but am looking for any hints, and debating
having
> a local stripper do the doors while I concentrate on the cabinet
faces
> (I do not plan to remove the cabinets).
>
> Is there a way to "lighten" the wood any. Our cabinets
are about 25
> years old, are solid oak, and have the original dark oak finish. I
> tried one door, but need to get some wire brushes, etc. so I can do
a
> more thorough job.
>
> I would appreciate any hints you could pass along.
> Answer - You will need to strip it
more than once.
After the first two coats of stripper,
mix in 50% regular house hold bleach with your stripper.
Use #2 steel wool to work the stripper in.
Wipe up with denatured alcohol mixed with water 50% each.
Don't use wire brushed!!!!
Use plastic brushes or old tooth brushes.
After everything is stripped and before finishing,
wipe down everything with paint thinner to reveal the true
color of the wood.
If there are areas that need attention they will be noticeable.
Repeat the paint thinner process if necessary.
Question #11 - I have a dresser that I rescued
from the Neighbor's garbage. It
had several layers of paint, but in great condition. as I began to strip
it,
I noticed three things: First, the back was extremely oxidized, When I
scraped it with my fingernail, it lightened. I know this means it's an
older
piece. The second thing I realized as I stripped is that The bottom
layer of
paint was actually a lacquer of some sort, and it had black stripes
detailing
the sides, and accenting the drawers around the periphery of the front.
The
last thing I noticed is that the nails have square tops (hand made?) I am
not
sure if It would be a piece better left in the hands of the
professionals as
I am afraid I may take value from the piece. Do you have any advice?
>
>Answer - Have a pro strip it BUT It
should be hand stripped only.
Question #12 - What should I put on a raw maple
butcher block, and how do I
apply it?
Answer -
My choice would be two or three coats of mineral oil.
Thank you for your question!
I hope I have been helpful
Please e mail me if there is something that you are not sure of.
Question - #13
Answer - Yes !! Lightly sand it.
Question - #14 - > I have been trying to
find either a book or a website with illustrations
and
> information on the restoring/upholstering of antique chairs
with the
8-coil
> wiring technique. We bought a house last year and these two
chairs were
> inside --nobody had lived there since the owner died about 4 or 5
yrs.
ago.
> These chairs might be from the 40/50's timeframe.
They have a beautiful
low
> waterfall back with the seat separated by the
arch-crafted wood and
> upholstered with a gold chenille fabric (the back has the tucked
buttons
> technique.) A restoration/upholstery shop estimated $500
for restoring
and
> another $500 for upholstering on each chair ($2,000 and I got
them for
free.)
> They estimated a price range of $2,500 to $3,500 after
fixing them...they
> also suggested a before and after picture for their website
publicity. I
> need your expertise and I want to Do-it-Myself for my own reward
and maybe
> for my next generation. I have them in my covered deck, but
I am afraid
they
> will get damaged. PLEASE HELP. THANKS
Answer - Your taking on a large job that
requires special skills.
The first thing that I would recommend is to take a home study
course. go to
http://www.foley-belsaw.com
I took their course years ago. I highly recommend them.
Your second option is attending classes at your local trade school.
Your local library may have video tapes that you may use.
or books.
Your local book store is also available.
As for the internet check out http://www.constantines.com
They do have a book on upholstery.
Also check out http://www.amazon.com
Question #15 - How do I clean scratches from
my furniture. Thank you for your advice.
Answer -
Question -#16 - I have a refinishing
problem and don't know which publication to order.
Could you advise me, please? I would very much like to do this
project the
first two weeks in July when I am off of work so I need to move
forward in
ordering the correct publication. Thank you.
Here is the problem. I have an Eastlake side table with what
appears to be
a rather large ink stain on it's surface. The whole piece is a
bit raggedy
looking and I think I will need to either refinish the whole thing
or just
paint it. However, that ink stain bothers me. Is there
any way to remove
it without destroying whatever value still exists in the piece?
My fear is
that it is impossible to remove. If I paint the piece will the
stain bubble
back up through the paint? What would you advise?
Answer - Here are your options.
1- Try removing the stain.
Note: If It's ink, and if the wood is veneer, the stain will be very
difficult
to remove completely, plus the stain may have penetrated the veneer
all the
way through.
Sometimes you get lucky and other times it's a waste of time. But the
only
way to know for sure is to try.
And if you pick this option! I would tell you to mask off every
thing but
the stained area and apply some Clorox bleach to the stain, working
it in
with a fine brass brush or #2 steel wool.
Repeat till results are obtained. If any).
If there are no noticeable differences! after a few
applications, STOP!!!
It's not going to happen....
#2-Cover the stained veneer completely with a new piece of veneer
right over
the damaged piece.
This is best left to a pro.
#3-Cover the area with tinted plate glass.
Cost you about $6.50 a square foot.
You can then restore the rest of the furniture, with out
refinishing, IF it's
in good condition.
A Guide on restoring furniture is available on my site.
#4-Refinish it. If it is in to bad a condition to
restore.
If the finish is coming off worn out right to the wood
then you will need to refinish.
#5- Paint it!!!!
Well you will still need to prep the piece before hand or even strip
it to
do a satisfactory job. or risk the chance of the paint not adhering
properly.
Those are your options----With out being able to see your piece of
furniture. I can tell you this. Refinishing is the way I would go
mainly
because you would be starting from scratch.
As far as the stain!!! I would add bleach to the stripper and work
it in.
You then have the option of plate glass or re-veneering.
These are the guides that I recommend
#A-10 How To Restore Furniture Only $3.95
#A-11 Guide to stripping dressers and tables only $9.95
A-7 How to finish oak furniture $9.95
As far as working with veneer, I am working on writing that report
and should
have it up on my site with in a week.
Question #17 - Hi Doc. good to meet you on line. I have a question about making a solution to antique new brass. It had been suggested to use a cup of distilled water, 1 tbl. of tsp. and 1/2 tea of liver of sulfur. What the heck is liver of sulfur, is there a simpler name ? I live in Thailand so I need to convey this need in the simplest of terms. I hope you can help me and thanks again
Answer -
Question #18 - > I recently inherited
an old table and chairs that are 75 years old. My
> husband broke off one of the legs and splintered a small
piece of wood at
> the base, because the leg were firmly glued on. He started to
pull off the
> other, because we were taking it home from Arkansas to
Louisiana and I had
> a fit. Does this devalue the piece? And what glue should I
use to repair
it
> with now?
Answer - No this doesn't Devalue the
piece!!!
You will need to clean off ALL the old glue COMPLETELY, before
regluing.
You can use liquid hide glue to reglue your loose joints.
If required-My guide to regluing chairs is available on my website
Question - #19
Question #20 - Hi--
I have a mahogany bedroom set that is in very good shape
except for some trim
around the top of the dresser. The dresser is curved and
at the top on the
front of the piece, there is a very thin laminate type strip
about 1&1/4
inch that is coming off. Actually, there is a piece
about 2& 1/2-3 inches
that is already off & another much smaller section right
next do it that
looks like it wants to do the same. Can this be fixed
and how? I do have
the piece that came off so if it's a matter of gluing it back
on with the
proper adhesive, I can do that.
Any advise would be greatly appreciated. We are looking
to sell the set and
I don't want to do so without repair. It's a beautiful
set.
Thank you for your time.
Answer
-
Question - #21
Answer -
Question - #22
Answer -
Paid subscriber can go to Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic then to my Refinishers Diary for more tips
Question #23 - I have a
cedar chest that needs the finish to be restored.
It was built
in
> the 1930's and was kept in an attic. I
would like some hints on how to
> revitalize the finish. Thanks for your
help in this matter. The finish
has
> fine crack in it and is very dull.
Answer - To restore it all
that is required is to clean it up, and apply a
compatible
finish right over the old finish.
In the cracks are in the finish, they will less
noticeable after the new
finish is applied.
If your intention is to preserve it's antique
value, I would leave the cracks
alone.
If you intend on repairing the cracks by
refinishing ,it may destroy the
antique value.
For detailed step by step instruction on How to
restore furniture check out
my Guide To Restoring Furniture.
at my website.
You will also receive FREE one year consultation
with purchase.
Question#24 - >
Hello Phil!
>
> Well I say my furniture is in good condition
but I am not an
> expert. It has some type of corrosion or
substance that was
> spilled onto the dining table and I believe
that area will
> actually have to be sanded and refinished. Here
is a question for
> you, On my buffet table down on the edge of it
the wood is coming
> up almost like it had become wet. it is not
buckled but actually
> peeling or crackling. More like its split. Will
your guide or can
> you tell me the best way to repair that?
Someone advised me to get
> the wood filler but then again this is actually
my first furniture
> project and like I said I want it done
correctly. What do you
> suggest? Well I will add myself to your list
and Will be ordering
> soon. I will be looking forward to the
reupholstering instructions
> as well. Thanks again for your help..
Answer - Sounds like the
top of your buffet table is veneer.
and what you see on the edge is the veneer lifting
up.
That's no problem, it's easy to fix.
Do not use a filler.
You are correct in assuming that you WILL need to
refinish the top of your buffet.
It may be water damage.
What does the damage look like?
What color is it?
Does it look white and hazy?
Is there a build up, or is it level with the surface.
I'll try to write that report on Reupholstering
Chair
Seats this week end.
It should be on my website by Monday.
Best Regards,
Phil
Question#25 - >
Hello! I have recently acquired a very old dining
room table and
> chairs along with a buffet table. They are in
serious need of
> refinishing but I am not sure as how to do this
the proper way. I
> looked at your website and the guides available
but am not sure as
> to which one would better suit my needs. Could
you please advise
> as to which guide or guides I may need. Also do
your offer any
> help on reupholstering the chairs?
Answer - What has to be
done as far as upholstery?
Are we talking about just the seats of the chairs?
If so!! That's no problem, I'll write a report to
guide you through.
One thing I want to mention, before I go any further
is
please keep in mind that I do offer FREE
consultation by E-Mail to answer
any questions you may have, once you order the
reports.
I DON'T leave you hanging!!!!!
Here are the reports that I feel you may need.
#A6-Finishing Pine Furniture
OR A7-Finishing Oak Furniture
#A11-Stripping Dressers and Tables
#A4-Stripping Chairs
#A3-Regluing Chairs (Only if they need regluing).
Plus The guide on reupholstering chair seats, I'll
write it up and place it
on my website within the next week. If you need it)
That just about covers it.
Looking forward to working with you.
Any questions....E-Mail me. by replying to THIS
E-Mail.
If you haven't done so already !! Sign up to receive
my newsletter. It's
FREE.
Best Regards,
Phil M Beaudet
http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/index.htm
phantom2@charter.net
Question - #26
Answer -
If you can't find someone to teach you, check out my guide on Furniture Repairs,
which includes a guide on Rushing chairs along with 29 other guides.
To view info. click here
And that's about it for your options.
Question - #27
Question #28 -
we
just brought our first home and the kitchen
cabinets are a little worn in
certain area. we can't afford to put a new
kitchen in but would like to fix
the old one that are only ten years old.
please if there is anyway to fix
them please e-mail me the information
thank you for you time
in reading my problem
Answer -
click here for information on my guide on Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets.
Question - #29
Answer -
Question#30 -
Answer -
Question
#31-I have a question about refinish
vs. cleaning. I have a piano I
estimate
to
be appx. 100 years old.
The finish is crackled. Is
there anything other
than totally refinishing I can
do to restore the piano?
Thanks.
Answer - I would try to Restore it first.
More info. will be found on my Online Clinic
For a list of guides contained in my Online Clinic click here
Question
#32 - > I am looking to restore
an old French amorire. The hinges
that go on the
> cabinet doors I believe they
are made by Stanley and are called
pivot
> hinges. I think the cabinet is
about 50 years old. Is there any
information
> you can provide to help me fix
this cabinet I am unable to locate
the
pivot
> hinge that connect upper and
lower to the cabinet and the door.
> Thanks
Answer - Go
on line at
http://www.wsidistributors.com
or
http://www.constantines.com
Question
#33 - > Hi
> Can you advise me?
> I have bought an old dome lid
chest which is leather with wood and
metal
> fixings.
> Trouble is it has been painted
with gloss paint!
> I can pick away some of it but
areas are stuck fast.
> Can you advise me on the best
way to remove the paint? I realize
that the
> leather probably won't look all
that great but it's better than it
is!
> Thank you for your help
Answer
- Use a paste stripper like
Zip-Strip and let the stripper do
its job.
Put a good heavy coat of stripper on
and let it set for 15 minutes.
Then put a second coat on and let
that set for 10 minutes.
Remove by using #2 steel wool to
loosen the paint.
Then use cloths soaked in lacquer
thinner.
The cloths are used instead of steel
wool to keep from scratching the
leather.
If it doesn't come off
clean, put an
other coat of stripper on.
If you let the stripper do its
job, the paint will come off a lot
easier.
Work a small tooth brush into hard
to reach areas.
When most of the paint is
removed, wash everything down with
lacquer thinner
to remove the remaining paint.
You will need plenty of cloths or
rags.
Change to clean cloths often.
Repeat till clean.
Treat the leather with saddle soap.
If necessary color the leather with
paste shoe polish.
Question #34 - HI, MY NAME IS BECKY. I FIND THAT REFINISHING WORN OUT FURNITURE IS RELAXING & REWARDING. HOWEVER I AM AT A STANDSTILL WITH MY CURRENT PROJECT. I HAVE A SIX FOOT TALL, EIGHT DRAWER DRESSER MADE OF KNOTTY PINE. THE PREVIOUS OWNEW NOT ONLY SCREWED ON THE HARDWARE, BUT ALSO GLUED, AS WELL AS PAINTED IT ON. PROBLEM? HOW DO I REMOVE THE HARDWARE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE WOOD? ALSO THE HARDWARE (KNOBS) ARE MADE OF BLOCKS OF WOOD. YOUR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
Answer -
Question
#35- > How do you remove the
legs and rockers from an old
rocking chair?
> We do not want to damage the
wood.
Answer
- Use a dead blow hammer.
If you do not have one, use a
regular hammer with a block of
wood wrapped
with a piece of old rug or cloths
to protect the wood.
Check for any hidden locking brads
or dowels, where the legs go into
the
rocker, and remove.
On stubborn
joints, inject vinegar
Question
#36 - > To The Doctor,
> I stumbled across your site
after doing a Yahoo search for
restoration and
> banister. I was
wondering if you would mind
answering a few questions
for
> me, as I do not know who to
ask. I have recently
purchased an older home
> (c. 1895) that is in very
good condition. However,
instead of washing any
> woodwork I believe the
previous owners just painted
everything when it was
> dirty. The
banister is
lovely but we are thinking of
having it dipped
> instead of stripping it
ourselves as we do not have the
time and we have a
> million other little projects
in the house to work on. I
don't know if
you
> can answer these questions
sight unseen, but any direction
you can give me
> would be helpful. The
banister is straight, with about
20 steps. The
> newel post (I think that is
the word) at the top goes straight
down to the
> kitchen door down below.
>
> Do you think we can remove
the banister? Do we remove
the whole unit as
one
> piece or do we take out each
spindle, etc. The bottom
post does not
appear
> to go into the basement but
it is very solid. We
are afraid to try to
pry
> it loose because we don't
even know how banisters are
attached. I know,
we
> sound pretty pathetic, but
all our work is slowly paying off
in the house,
> and we are enjoying the
process....
>
> Lastly, I have been told that
some wood should not be dipped as
it could
> disintegrate. Is this a
factor of the age of the wood, the
species?
>
> Thank you for any advise or
direction you can provide.
And thank you for
> your useful website.
>
Answer
- My first choice would be to
refinish it on site.
It will take more time to refinish
it, BUT you would save time and
aggravation putting it back
together again.
Plus you could damage it by taking
it apart, creating more work for
yourself.
If the paint was applied over a
existing varnish, the paint should
come off
clean. Use plenty of drop cloths.
Mask off everything.
Use a paste stripper like
ZIP-STRIP.
Do a small section at a time.
You may need to apply two
coats, one after the other.
Put the first coat on
HEAVY, wait
about ten minutes, test to see how
the paint
comes off.
It should come off
cleanly, if not
STOP and apply a second HEAVY
coat.
Work with a good light source
positioned to one side, but not
blinding your
vision.
Wear gloves of course.
When the paint is really ready to
be removed, loosen it up with #2
steel
wool.
Then switch to clean rags soaked
with lacquer thinner, and remove
the paint
all the way down to the raw wood.
This procedure should remove 99%
of the paint, depending on how
fancy your
spindles are, and how thick the
paint is, and how long you leave
the stripper
on.
REMEMBER to ONLY do a small
section at a time.
What ever remains after, can be
removed with steel wool and some
picking
tool, like dental tools.
Do one section COMPLETELY before
moving on.
You got to get it off WHILE ITS
WET.....
After every thing is stripped,
the next step is to wash every
thing down with paint thinner,
then
let dry
for a day.
I realize that you did say
that you did not have the time to
do it your
self BUT just in case you change
your mind.
I have included enough information
in this e mail so you will know
what your
doing.
You know the old
saying, If you
want something done right you got
to do it
your self.)
As far as applying your finish
coat, I would apply the first TWO
coats with a
cloth.
Put it on as if you were dusting.
The third coat (if
needed), can
also be applied with a cloth or by
brush.
Or you may even put all coats on
by spraying.
I would use POLY.
I hope this has been helpful to
you.
Any questions !!!!! E Mail me.
Question #37 - Where are you located? or is the clinic online in some way?
Answer
- My On Line Clinic is
a new service that is available to
Paid subscribers
to my website,
that will be added
soon.
For more info on Paid
subscriptions click following link
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
Question
#38 - > hi I live in Brooklyn
and found your site via Yahoo.
do you know of any
folks in NYC that give classes or
clinics in refinishing furniture?
I'm
coming up empty-handed with the
yellow pages...
>
> thanks!
Answer
-
>Question
# 39 - My husband and I
have done some refinishing and
basic gluing with good
> results. We want to
tackle a Victorian sofa with a
carved mahogany frame
> that is broken in several
places. Because it has
three curves along the
> back and in at least one
place some of the wood is
missing where the break
> is, we would like some help
or suggestions. Could we
send you a sketch
and
> get you to design a guide
for us? Please let us know
the price for this
and
> we could include it with
the sketch. Thanks.
Cindy
Answer-
Hi Cindy,
Yes I agree to write up a guide
for your project.
I would need lots of close up
shots of the damage.
And As much info as possible on
the piece.
You can send the info by e mail
or to my mailing address.
My fee for this service will be
$79.00.
Included is one full year of
free consultation.
If your not satisfied with the
report !!!!
You get your money
back, no
questions asked.
My mailing address is
Philip M Beaudet
The Furniture Restoration
Workshop
348 East Main St.
Chicopee, MA. 01020
Please include this E Mail with
payment.
Question
# 40 - Hi, I purchased an
old oak dresser and mirror from
a friend of mine. I have
heard that you can work with the
old finish sometimes and not
have to strip
the piece. The finish is
original and also the pulls
appear to be original.
There was an old piece of
linoleum glued to the top of the
dresser, which I
removed. Some of the glue
remains, but the top doesn't
seem to be damaged at
all.
I would like to restore the
dresser and pulls also. Could
you recommend one
of your books that would help me
with this project?
I have enclosed a couple of
pictures of the dresser, so you
can see what I
will be working with.
Thank you,
Roselie
Answer -
Question
#41 -
i
recently inherited an oak
table from my
great-grandmother. however
she had
kept a vinyl tablecloth on it
for about 50 years ... so now
that it has been
removed, it has started to eat
away at the wood. i am
scrubbing it down with
Murphy's oil soap to try to
get rid of the residue from
the tablecloth ...
but it is not completely
successful. if you
could offer any other tips in
restoring this precious
heirloom it would be
enormously appreciated. Thank
you.
_-Georgia-_
Answer - Use Paint thinner, Keep the surface wet at ALL times. NEVER Let it dry out This is very important. Rub Lightly with # 0 steel wool. Increase pressure ONLY if necessary. Wipe up with clean dry cloths. Repeat till satisfactory results are obtained. NOTE You may have to repeat this technique several times. By keeping the surface wet at all times insures that you not scratch the surface. When all is removed and the surface is scratched, apply some paste wax such as BRIWAX. OR a thin coat of varnish. or bulls eye amber shellac.
Question
#42 - I have an old wood chair
that I don't want to sand or
strip . I want to
> keep the overall
character of the chair. I just
want to clean it up a
> bit as it has stains etc.
what sort of product would you
use?
>
Answer -
Check out my guide to
restoring furniture.
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/wd50.htm
View this guide along with over 100 other guides FREE for one week.
This is a special time limit offer. Take advantage of it while it is available.
To subscribe to my one week free offer to my Online Clinic click here
This free offer will be discontinued at any time
Question
#43 - > I have a pine
chest of drawers that is
fairly new. The top is stained
and
> evidently not sealed or
not well sealed anyway. I
placed a Mexican painted
> clay pot with water &
flowers. The water eventually
seeped thru, leaving a
> ring. Is it possible to
remove the stain, or draw as
much as possible out
of
> the wood prior to trying
to sand the top?
>
Answer
-
Check out my guide to restoring furniture. http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/beforeafter.htm
View this guide along with over 180 other guides FREE for one week.
This is a special time limit offer. Take advantage of it while it is available.
To subscribe to my one week free offer to my Online Clinic click here
This free offer will be discontinued at any time
Question
#44 - I recently bought an old
armoire with some damage to
the left front leg.
> The leg runs the length
of the piece, and has been hit
hard enough to
> splinter off an eight
inch section that , in the
middle, is over .5 inch
> deep. It was glued
back in place, but not fitted
properly. What is the
> best way of getting this
splintered wood off?
Eventually, should I
re-glue
> this piece in place or
just cut it out and fit a new
piece in its place?
Answer -
You may not be able to
remove this glued up piece
with out damage. SO my
first thought would be to try
to reinforce it by installing
some screws and countersinking
them then plugging the screw
heads, and sanding
flush.------When sanding the
plugs, apply tape around the
plugs to protect the
surrounding
surfaces.-----Fill in any
imperfections with a wax
fill in stick. OR
Lacquer stick.-----OR-----
You can apply Hot glue and
sand down. I have tried the
hot glue and it works great
!!!!!
Question - #45
Answer - An O-Zone Negative Ion Generator would do the job. If you know someone that has one, ask to borrow it for a day or two.----To learn more on O-Zone Generators go to my Online Clinic page at http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm, You can also wash all exterior surfaces with paint thinner and apply a thin coat of finish to trap the odor.----On ALL the interior you will need to wash everything down with paint thinner then let it dry OR force dry it then seal EVERYTHING inside with a shellac. That means EVERYTHING inside including the insides and outsides of the drawers and the whole carcass.
Question
#46 -
Hi,
I have an old "mission
oak" type rocker with
leather seat and back. I
just
happen to have some leather
and would like to attempt
covering this myself.
Do you have any suggestions
on how to go about it? The
chair itself does not
need to be refinished.
Sincerely Nancy
Answer - Hi Nancy, I would very carefully remove the old leather, without damaging it and simply use it as a pattern for the new leather. NOTE Cut a little over size, you can always trim later.----NOTE Get some upholstery tacks,#6 and #3.---- Position your new leather and dry tack only for now.---By that I mean don't drive the tacks all the way in. Just 1/4 of the way into the frame or ,just enough to hold it up.---Place a tack on the centers top and bottom and the centers of both sides. Work toward your corners, placing tacks 1/4 in into the frame. working the leather as you go by smoothing out with your hand from the center to the outside. Check your original leather fabric often to determine how it was attached. NOTE By dry tacking ( tacking only 1/4 into the frame), you are able to adjust the leather as you proceed, by pulling tacks to adjust the fit. When the fit is satisfactory to you then you drive ALL the tacks ALL the way in BUT---ONLY WHEN YOUR ABSOLUTELY SURE of the fit. Then you can trim off all the excess. If the chair had decorator tacks, don't try to use the old ones, purchase some new ones. An upholster shop should be able to sell you some. If not go to http://www.constantines.com ----Any questions?? Contact me.
Question - #47
Answer -
Question - #48
Answer -
Question - #49
Answer -
Question
#50 -
Hi
Phil,
I have a old
small table I
found over the
weekend, I find
very interesting
it
was holding up
an air
conditioner
placed in
a window.
When I
removed it it
fell apart, with
minimal damage,
it didn't seem
to be
held
together
by glue
only by the hand
made joints.
The wooden knob
on the draw has
wooden threads
to hold it.
Do you recommend
Formby's to
remove the paint
which has turned
to a powder
like finish.
As you can see
by description
I'm an armature.
allen
Answer -
Question
#51 -
what
is a good
stripper to
use on antique
furniture with
intent to
refinish
it not paint
it. i want
something that
works well so
i don't have to
scrape
a
lot. would
buy it at home
depot or lowes
which are
closer
Answer -
I have a old sellers cabinet that has been has been in a damp basement and at the bottom the veneer is bowing up and coming off. the bottom door is ruined. Do you have any clues on how to fix this cabinet .
Answer - You may have to remove the damaged veneer, clean both sides and reglue it back.
Apply heat to remove, using a putty knife under the veneer to pry off.
Scrape off ALL the old glue from both surfaces, clean well, and apply white glue to both
surfaces and apply weight.
On areas that bubbled, and can not be removed, slit the veneer with a razor blade, with
the grain and inject glue and weigh down.
On corners pry up just enough to inject glue and tape down, or clamp, or apply weight.
Question
#53 -
Hello,
I came
across
your site
while
looking
around
"furniture
restoration"
on
Yahoo.
I am
actually
refinishing
windows,
stairways
etc. in my
house. The
wood is
fine grain
redwood,
but it is
relatively
old (circa
1910) and
has been
painted
and filled
numerous
times over
the years.
Some of
the gouges
in the
wood have
been
filled
with old
fillers
that won't
come out
with
either
Jasco,
Peel Away
or
acetate.
The house
painters
and
refinishers
I talk to
seem to
think that
there is
no
solvent
available
that would
work on
this
stuff, and
that my
only
alternatives
are to
either pry
out the
filler or
sand it
down or
stain the
wood. I
would
prefer to
do none of
those.
I figured
that
antique
furniture
restorers
must deal
with this
problem
all
the time
and have
discovered
some
combination
of
solvents
that will
work. Am
I wrong?
Any help
or advice
you have
would be
appreciated,
and if
your book
has the
answer to
this
problem,
please
tell me
and I
would be
happy to
purchase
it.
Thanks in
advance,
Colin
Chapman
Answer
- You will
have to
color the
filler to
match the
wood, or
cut out
the
defects,
and
install a
patch
using
redwood
with a
matching
grain, or
remove as
much of
the old
filler and
refill
using
different
techniques.
To add color you may use blending stains, penetrating stains, or aniline dyes. Apply them with a fine artist brush.
To cut out the defected areas, you will need to make a template large enough to cover the defected Ares. You can cut out the defected areas with a chisel, or if your handy with a router, use a router. As far as dissolving the filler, I would not recommend it.
Here is a article from my newsletter archives which may prove helpful.
NOTE:- If you are really into furniture refinishing you really should subscribe to my Online Clinic.
I am now offering a one week free trial. Take advantage of this free trial while it is available.
The Following Is A Sample From My Newsletter Archives.
And Is Included With A Subscription To My Online Clinic.
The
Furniture
Doctor
Newsletter
August/4/2001
In this
issue I
will be
talking
about
filling in
defects,
and
the
different
techniques
that
available.
#1- Wax
fill in
sticks -
Good for
scratches,
and
small
dings,
dents
or nicks.
For
scratches
just rub
across the
scratch
with the
stick till
it's full.
Wipe off
the excess
with a
cloth.
For
dings,
dents
or
nicks, you
can also
try
rubbing
across the
defect.
Or you may
have to
melt some
into the
defect
with a
burning
tool,
melting
enough
to fill
just above
the
surface,
then
shaving
the excess
off with a
cabinet
scraper,
or
sandpaper.
Note if
working
with a
finished
piece,
protect
the
surface
with balm,
or paint
thinner.
----------------------------------------------------------------------
#2-
Lacquer
sticks -
Or Burn-in
sticks -
These have
to be
melted
into
the
defect.
The
surfaces
need to
be
protected
with
balm
also,
plus
the excess
need to be
removed
with the
burn in
tool.
This
technique
is a
little
more
difficult
to master.
__________________________________________________________________
#3- Wood
putty -
This is
easier to
use, but
harder to
finish.
You can
either use
as
is, apply
it to the
defect,
sand
down,
then
stain
to match.
Or color
the putty
first then
apply.
You can
use
regular
stain, or
aniline
dye to add
color.
__________________________________________________________________
#4 - Saw
dust and
white
glue.
Sand
in a
inconspicuous
area
just to
gather
excess
saw
dust,
and
mix in
some
glue, and
use this
as a
filler.
Note;- Old
timers
have been
using this
technique
for years.
______________________________________________________________
#5 - Boil
up the
defect
with
steam.
This
technique
will bring
up the
defect
some times
all the
way back,
but not
always !!!
How it's
done !!
Some
people
place a
wet cloth
over the
defect and
run an
iron
over
it. Check
it often
for
results.
Some times
you can
just drop
water into
the defect
and place
the tip of
a
soldering
gun into
the
defect,
always
making
sure
to have
water
present on
the
defected
area, till
the defect
rises
to the
surface.
DON'T
LET IT DRY
OUT.!!!!!
___________________________________________________________________
#6 - Hot
Glue Gun.
YES ! You
read it
right !!
I
discovered
this
technique
by
curiosity.
I just
wanted to
try it to
see if it
would
work.
Last week
I was
working on
a dresser
top, that
had a
missing
corner
that
I had to
rebuild
about 1/8
inch deep
by three
inches
long of
missing
wood.
Corners
can be
difficult
to rebuild
using
other
methods.
I glued a
straight
edge on
both
sides, and
applied
oil so the
hot glue
would not
stick.
Next I
applied
hot glue
to the
defect and
let it
cool off.
Next I
removed
the
straight
edges,
and
applied
masking
tape to
the
surrounding
finish
area to
protect
the
finish.
Next I
started to
reshape
the hot
glue,
using
a sharp
knife, to
remove
most of
the
excess.
Next I
switched
to some #
80 grit
sand paper
and
removed
the
masking
tape
and sanded
the hot
glue along
with the
rest of
the molded
edge of
the
dresser
top edge
to draw
some of
the saw
dust into
the hot
glue
defected
area.
This
automatically
added or
dragged
color to
the hot
glued
area, and
blended
the hot
glued
damaged
area
perfectly.
__________________________________________________________________________
#7 -
Sometimes
you can
cut out
the
damaged
area, and
replace it
with new
wood of
the same
species. Especially
of corners
or edges
of dresser
tops.
Then you
can
reshape it
and stain
it to
match.
____________________________________________________________________________
#8 -
Surfaces -
Some times
you can
use a plug
cutter, to
drill out
a small
defect,
and
insert a
plug, then
plan off
and stain
to match.
Using this
technique
you would
choose a
wood as
close to
possible
to
matching
the color
and grain
of the
defected
area.
Plus you
would use
the
surface of
the wood
to drill
your new
replacement
plugs.
_______________________________________________________________________________
Paid
Subscribers
receive
extra
benefits.
To
receive
FULL
benefits
click here
Question
#54
- > I
have a
metal
dresser
that was
kept in a
damp
basement.
It is from
around
> the
1920's.
It is
solid, but
has rust
on it.
If I were
to sand
blast it
> how
would I
refinish
it?
I would
appreciate
any ideas
that you
could give
me.
>
> Thank
You
> Sara
Answer - After sandblasting clean it with lacquer thinner, then pain it with rustoleum brand spray paint. You may need to prime it first, check with supplier.
Question
#55
- > My
mother's
furniture
is very
sculptured
and
mahogany
with large
club
> feet.
Living in
Florida
over the
years and
not using
the air
>
conditioning
it has
become
very moldy
and the
odor is
unbearable.
Can
> you
recommend
anything
to clean
up this
furniture?
There are
2 bedrooms
> sets
(one solid
maple),
dining
room set
(belonged
to my
grandmother)
,a
>
beautiful
desk and a
cane
rocker
that
belonged
to my
great
great
>
grandmother.
I know I
am going
to have to
sell these
but would
like to
> do
something
before I
have
dealers
into the
house for
appraisals.
>
(Everything
is still
in Ft.
Lauderdale)
>
> Your
help will
be greatly
appreciated.
>
>
Sharon
Answer - My first suggestion would be to use a o-zone neg.ion generator, to treat the problem. If you know someone who has one, ask to borrow it. They work great.
Check my website and click on Removing odors, for more information on them.
My second suggestion would be to remove to odor by washing everything with a disinfectant like lestoil,then applying a finish coat to trap the odor. Your dresser interiors will need to be also treated the same way. I would get some cans of clear spray shellac and spray everything, inside and outside. NOTE:- You MUST be very thorough......
BUT!!! The easiest and best way by far is with a o-zone generator. PLUS!!!! You can always find uses for the generator after your through. Get a good brand like ALL PINE.
Personally I would use both methods, to be sure.
I liked the o zone generators so much that I bought three of them. A refinishing shop can be a very smelly place, but I no longer have any such problems.
They have gotten get of odors from my stripper, my lacquer spraying, they also get rid of smoke.
Hell they even got rid of a skunk odor I had a few months ago.
To use the o zone generator, I would put everything in one small room and turn the generator on all the way, and close the doors and leave it alone for three to four days. That should solve your problem...............
Question
#56 - I'm
in the
process of
restoring
a vanity,
I'm having
a problem
with
getting
the paint
out of the
cracks,
and carved
areas.
Also is it
true that
you can
use bleach
to lighten
the darken
areas on
wood.
This
vanity
had 3
different
colors of
paint on
it I'm
down to
the
finish,
However
there is
paint
built up
in the
edges or
corners of
the
vanity.
What can I
do?
Answer - Yes you can use ( Clorox Bleach) to lighten the (over all) color of wood. Mix with your stripper 50% of both. BUT as far as just treating the darker areas of the wood, it doesn't work that way. All wood type have their own color and grain configurations. For example: You are not going to make pine look like oak or maple. And you are not going to get rid of sap streaks in pine, just because you don't like the looks. If your stripping a piece of furniture that has been painted, chances are it is not going to look that great if you intend to finish it by staining it, or and finishing it with varnish or some other clear finish. That is the reason it was painted in the first place. The manufacture knew that the piece was going to be painted so he used what ever wood he had on hand at the time.
As far as getting the paint out of cracks and carved areas, Apply a paste stripper and use a stiff small plastic brush ( like a old tooth brush) or a soft brass bristle brush and scrub the areas till they are clean. Some times I even use dental picks.# 3 steel wool also will prove helpful. Let the stripper soak on the wood for a few minutes, if it dries out, apply more stripper. Keep at it, and you will get it all off.
As far as paint build up ! Scrap it off with a cabinet scraper, or a putty knife or a single edge razor blade. If this piece is going to be stained, the stain will cover what little remains. Or a little sanding could be all that is required after the build up is removed.
Let me know how you make out. Please e mail me if you require more help.
Question
#57 - I
recently
purchased
2 antique
tables,
one small
drop-leaf
end table
and a
small
writing
desk.
Both are
in need of
refinishing.
The small
one I want
to retain
the
stained
look and
the
writing
desk I
would like
to paint.
What
products
do you
recommend
and what
are the
steps to
achieve my
desired
results?
Also, one
table has
a place
where some
of the
wood has
been cut
away
- what do
you
recommend
to fix
this or
improve
it's
appearance?
Thanks in
advance
for your
help,
Melissa
Answer
- First of
all,
if they
ARE
antiques,
I would
not
refinish
them,
because
you would
loose
their
antique
value.
I would
just clean
them up
and use
them as
is, just
restore
them.
On the other hand if you do not care about their antique value, you can go ahead and refinish them.
The desk you mentioned you would like to paint. I would have to assume that the finish on it is varnish. If it's that old and if it is the original finish it could be. BUT painting over a finish can be risky. I personally would strip it and start from scratch, JUST TO BE SURE that I don't have a chemical reaction between the original finish and the paint. However there are products available that claim to make a liar out of me. I just don't believe in taking chances. If you want to take that chance You will need to clean the piece with some paint thinner, or a store bought wax remover. Then sand lightly. Then use a tack cloth to pick up the dust. Then prime it. Sand it again. Clean it again with a tack cloth. Then apply your paint. One to two coats. May be three coats. I have an excellent guide that will be very helpful. It explains in DETAIL the step by step needed instructions that you need to produce professional results. I recommend you get it. Also you will find further help in my newsletter Archives, and my refinishers diary. I would have to write three separate reports to answer your questions completely in this e mail. The reports are already written and are available NOW. All you got to do is order them.
As far as the missing wood on one of the tables, There are several solutions that are available. I have written reports on this subject also. Why not subscribe to my website At $69.00 for a year. and get EVERYTHING in one package. There is nothing that comes close to what I am offering. Take advantage of it while the offer is still available at this price.
Question - #58
Answer - Bring it in, and I'll take a look at it. I am open 10-6 7 days a week. Call first. Best time to get me is on the week ends.
Question
#59
-
Hello...I
just read
your
section on
refinishing
furniture.....
I am new
at it and
am doing
it on my
own.
Presently
I have an
antique
washstand
with the
'harp'
towl rack.
It was my
grandparents'
years ago.
It had 2
layers of
mactac on
the top
and the
rest was
painted a
sold
creamy
color.
I am
stripping
the paint
off and I
see that
years ago,
they
stained
it.
Once that
is
done,,there
is no way
to get
that out,
is
there?
I was a
bit
disappointed
that it
was
stained,
but I
guess I
will
take it
however it
comes.
In some
places the
stain
looks a
bit darker
than
others
giving it
a
'non-consistent'
finish.
Do you
have any
suggestions
for me?
I am not
sure about
sanding it
down now
or what?
help.
Donna in
Canada
Answer
- You will
need to
re-strip it
several
times. Use
a paste
stripper
like
ZIP-STRIP. Scrub
it down
with #3
steel wool
mixed 50%
with
Clorox
bleach.
Use a
small
plastic
brush like
a old
tooth
brush to
get into
any hard
to reach
areas. Repeat
till
results
are
obtained.
Wash down
with
denatured
alcohol
after.
than with
paint
thinner.
Question
#60 - Any
suggestions
on
restoring
Old Tin
Bed!
Answer
- My first
suggestion
would be
have it
sandblasted. My
second
suggestion
would be
to clean
it up with
lacquer
thinner
then spray
it. My
third
suggestion
would be
to have it
dipped.
Question - #61
Answer - I can't answer this question with just a sentence or paragraph. I have already written a guide on this subject in great detail. I would strongly recommend purchasing my guide to refinishing kitchen cabinets. It will answer all your questions and take all the guess work out. At the time I am writing this I am offering a FREE guide to refinishing and stripping interior woodwork with the purchase of my guide to refinishing kitchen cabinets. Take advantage of it while the offer is still available.
Question
#62 - Is
there
anyway I
can get
motor
oil out
of wood?
I found
a cute
little
antique
table in
the back
of my
Dad's
shed one
day
while
helping
him
clean.
I have
stripped
the
table of
the 2
coats of
nasty
green
paint.
Some
paint
has
soaked
into
wood.
And
sanded,
I also
washed
it down
with
Dawn
soap.
I
stained
it and
set it
outside,
when I
went
back to
get, you
can see
where
the oil
has
surfaced
again.
Does
anyone
have a
solution?
I will
not be
able to
put any
kind of
varnish
on it
or
doilly
in this
shape.
Thanks
Answer - Re-strip it. Wash it down with denatured alcohol. Let dry. Apply heat to it. A heat lamp or two should do it. Wipe off the oil as it surfaces. Repeat till satisfactory results are obtained. Note: You may need to repeat this several times. Note: When you don't detect any more oil rising to the surface, you got it. BUT I would not take it for granted. When you are sure you got all the oil out, SOAK IT with paint thinner, and observe the surface, if it looks like clear glass with no imperfections then you have gotten rid of all the oil. BUT if you see imperfections like craters, or little rings, then you got to apply the heat again. Please e mail me and let me know your results.
Question
#63 -
We
recently
purchased
a
restaurant
in
Atlanta,
Georgia
and we
have
beautiful
solid
oak
walls.
When
we first
saw the
restaurant
the
walls
had such
a
beautiful
luster
and
finish,
now they
are dull
and need
to be
restored.
I've
tried
everything,
Murphy
Oil, Old
English,
etc.,
and
nothing
seems to
work at
all.
For
the most
part the
walls
seem to
be more
dusty
and
dirty
than
every.
Could
you
please
give me
some
suggestions
to
restore
the
walls
and
return
them to
their
original
shine
and
luster?
Thank
you for
your
assistance.
Sincerely,
Mrs.
Roberta
Gentile
Answer - Wash down with paint thinner and #2 steel wool. Wipe up with clean dust free cotton cloths. When dry !! Sand lightly with 180 grit garnet open coat sandpaper. Wipe up with a tack cloth. ( get them at your paint supplier). Wipe up several times, because you need to pick up ALL the sanding dust. Then put on a coat of poly. Maybe two coats. Put on thin coats, to avoid runs and drips. You can put the poly on with a mop, or cloth or a brush. It is possible that your finish has worn out. In that case you will need to refinish it. If that is the case I would purchase my guide on stripping and finishing interior woodwork.
Question
#64 -
Dear
doctor
furniture,
I live
in
Winnipeg,
Manitoba,
Canada
and I
would
like to
bring
some
antique
furniture
made out
of Ebony
from Sri
Lanka.
Will
my
furniture
adapt to
the
Canadian
climate?
Your
expert
opinion
of this
will be
appreciated.
Thanks
D. Alwis
Answer
- I
would
apply an
oil to
ANY
unfinished
areas, JUST
to be
sure. Put
it on
with a
brush
and let
it soak
in. Wipe
off the
excess
the next
day. Reapply
every
six
months. You
can use
boiled
linseed
oil.
Question - #65
Answer - Never tried to refinish rubber wood. I think the problem here would be sealing it .You may need to apply more then one coat of sealer. Then you should be able to finish it just like any other wood.
Question - #66
Answer - To be sure I would have it dipped. Nothing will live through that. Then your safe.
Question
# 67-
Dear
'Doctor':
I
purchased
A
lovely
old
(not
sure
how
old)
chest
of
drawers.
It is
tiger
oak
with
curved
legs
that
sit 6
or 7
inches
from
the
floor
and
has
a
swinging
mirror.
The
mirror
has
side
arms
(shaped
like
the
legs)
which
attach
it to
the
top of
the
chest.
Some
pieces
of
veneer
are
missing
from
around
the
curved
face/frame
of the
mirror.
The
mirror
is
in
very
good
shape.
The
drawers
all
fit
and
are
not
warped.
I need
to
add a
spot
of
glue
to one
joint
at the
base
and
secure
one of
the
center
drawer
supports
that
is
loose.
some
one
tried
to
refinish
it
darker
than
the
original
color
and
stained
the
sides
and
backs
and
insides
of
the
drawers.
It has
wooden
wheels
and
though
they
show
signs
of
'arthritis'
seem
to
roll
well.
the
estimates
I have
range
from
$500
to
800 to
refinish
the
old
beauty
but in
reviewing
the
books
and
techniques
used
to do
the
work i
think
I can
do it
myself.
I need
to
replace
one
of the
keyhole
lock
faces
on one
drawer
and
would
love
to
find a
key
that
would
work.
Any
advice?
Thank
you.
Gwenn
Asher
Answer
- As
far as
the
key !
A lock
smith
would
be
your
best
bet. As
far as
refinishing
it
your
self!!! Go
for
it. If
you
need
help!!
I
offer
consultation
with
any
purchase
of my
guides.
Question
#68
->
I am
interested
in
refinishing
my
kitchen
cabinets.
They
were
custom-made
>
when
the
house
was
built
approximately
45
years
ago.
The
doors
are
slatted
>
which
I
really
like.
At
some
point
a
previous
owner
put a
coat
of
shellac
>
on
them
to
spiff
them
up
which
complicates
things.
>
How
difficult
will
it be
for us
to
sand
it
down.
I have
only
sanded
a
time
>
or two
so am
not an
expert.
I
might
be
interested
in
purchasing
your
>
information
for
kitchen
cabinet
restoration
if we
decide
it's
worth
it to
>
pursue
this.
Thanks
for
any
info.
Joanne
Shaver
>
Answer
- Dear
Joanne,
Thank
you
for
your
interest.
If the
tables
were
turned, and
I
found
someone
who
wrote
step
by
step
detailed
instructional
guides
on
refinishing
kitchen
cabinets, plus
was
offered
free
consultation
for
one
year, to
answer
any
questions
that I
may
have,
I
would
at
lease
order
it and
check
it
out. THEN
!!
if I
decided
it
was a
waste
of
money, I
would
ask
for a
refund.
My
guides
are
the
results
of
over
20
years
of
trial
and
error. I
do not
write
these
guides
to get
rich. I
write
them
because
what
is out
there
now as
far
as how
to
guides, leave
you
hanging
plus
they
don't
offer
any
support
as far
as
consultation, Plus
they
don't
get
into
the
details.
But I
can't
simply
give
them
away. I
put to
much
time
into
it.
So
order
the
guide
and
check
it
out. At
this
time I
am
offering
a FREE
guide
to
stripping
and
finishing
interior
wood
work
with
purchase
of my
guide
to
refinishing
kitchen
cabinets. Take
advantage
of
this
FREE
offer
while
it's
still
available.
Regards,
Phil M
Beaudet
http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm
mailto:phantom2@charter.net
Question
#69 -
My son
had a
friend
whose
house
burnt
a few
weeks
ago.
While
he was
helping
them
to
clean
up he
noticed
that
there
was an
old
upright
piano
in the
living
room
that
hadn't
burnt
but
did
have
alot
of
soot
from
the
smoke.
He
asked
him
what
they
were
going
to do
with
it and
he
said
they
would
just
dump
it,
too.
I had
been
looking
for
one
for my
Grandchildren
to
learn
to
play
on and
didn't
want
to put
alot
of
money
in one
until
I knew
for
sure
they
were
serious
about
learning.
My son
asked
if I
could
have
it and
the
next
thing
I
knew,
here
was
this
piano.
I did
wipe
down a
small
spot
in an
inconspicuous
place
and
the
wood
is
beautiful
and it
still
has
some
of the
shine.
What I
would
like
to
know
is the
safest
way to
clean
this
off
and
there
is
also
some
melted
candle
wax on
the
top
where
she
had
some
candles.
I have
carefully
cleaned
the
most
part
of it
off
except
there
is
still
a fine
layer
that
would
keep
any
type
of
cleaner
from
getting
through
but I
didn't
want
to
scrape
to the
point
of
scratching.
A man
that
just
happened
by
when
they
were
unloading
the
piano
stopped
and
said
the
wood
looked
like
"Tiger
eye
Maple"...????
This I
am not
sure
because
I have
never
heard
of it.
He
suggested
that I
take
"Dawn"
dish
detergent
and
spread
it
over
the
entire
piano
and
let it
sit
for 3
days
then
wipe
it
down
and
all
the
smokey
damage
will
come
off.
It
turns
out
that
this
piano
is
beautiful
and if
there
is any
way it
can be
saved
I
would
like
to
try.
There
are a
few
keys
that
are
sticking
and I
am
told
that
can be
remedied
and my
son
didn't
know
to
close
the
cover
over
the
keys
while
they
were
transporting
it and
a few
of the
ivory
pieces
blew
off.
(The
heat
loosened
the
glue
holding
them
on.)
Of
course
it
will
need
tuning
again,
though
it
doesn't
sound
too
bad
now.
We
did
WD-40
the
strings
to
keep
them
from
rusting
and I
got
that
advice
from
the
tuner.
They
found
a date
on the
inside
that
said
1848.
If
there
is
anything
you
can
tell
me to
help...I
don't
want
to do
anything
until
I'm
sure
I
won't
damage
this
piece.
Thank you for any advice
Answer - I would saturate the wood with paint thinner and clean cloths. Repeat till results are obtained.
Next- If the results prove favorable would apply a light coat of paste wax. However If the results are not favorable, you may need to refinish it. If the finish just needs sprucing up, I would purchase a product called Restore-A Finish, just follow the directions ,and you should be all set.
As far as using DAWN, I have never tried it and mainly because if it contains any water it could create other problems, plus because I already know that paint thinner will work, why should I take the gamble.
As far as the strings, I would apply a light coat of sewing machine oil, and wipe up the excess, after removing any possible rust with WD-40.
As far as removing any smoke odor, I would look into purchasing or borrowing a O-Zone generator.
As far as any keys that came loose, I would scrape off all the old glue from both surfaces and apply gorilla glue, and clamp till glue sets up.
Next day-Clean off all excess glue from keys.
If I can be of further help please contact me.
Question - #70
Answer - Restore-A-Finish would be the product that I would recommend. Just follow directions. There are many old timer remedies to try, BUT some could prove to be risky. Restore-A-Finish usually does the job satisfactory, with very little risk involved. Personally I would use DENATURED ALCOHOL,-But you have to use the proper technique, and it could be damaging especially if you have never attempted it before. If you do not want to take the chance !!!! Have a pro do it. However !! If you want to try the denatured alcohol technique, here it is. Make a ball out of a clean cloth and pour some denatured alcohol onto it. Then with your other hand pat the ball of cloth till most of the alcohol is removed from it. Then with a pendulum motion, swing the ball over the spot just barely touching the area. Repeat till results are obtained. Finish up with a light coat of wax.
Question #71 - What is the average price to reglue chairs?
Answer
-
Regluing
chairs
has
become
my
specialty.
When
I get
chairs
that
no one
has
tried
to
reglue,the
price
can
average
from
$55.00
to
over
$100.00.It
depend
on the
style,
and
the
fit,
and
if
there
are
any
broken
or
missing
parts.etc.
On the
other
hand
if the
chairs
have
been
worked
on
before,
the
price
will
sometimes
double.
I
have
learned
the
hard
way, I
got
burnt
to
many
times.
I
had
customers
bring
me
chairs
in
plastic
bags
and
boxes.
Sometimes
the
chairs
were
put
back
together
wrong.
and
I
didn't
catch
it in
time.
After
a few
experiences
like
this,
you
take
the
time
to
really
inspect
all
chairs
for
any
possible
problem.
Sure
!! I
charge
the
extra,
I
call
it my
aggravation
fee.
Sometimes
I'll
get
chairs
where
no one
messed
with,
but
the
joints
poorly
matched.
I'll
point
this
out
along
with
any
thing
else I
find
to the
customer.
And
I
won't
guarantee
this
particular
chair.
There
is no
easy
way to
reglue
a
chair.
As far
as
just
squirting
any
type
of
glue
into a
joint,
and
expecting
it to
stay !
Well
- If
you
can be
sure
that
you
can
clean
the
joint
and
clamp
it
properly,
it
may
stay.
But
I
wouldn't
guarantee
it. I
just
wouldn't
take
the
chance.
I
don't
want
it
coming
back,
It
makes
you
look
bad.
Sometimes
if the
customer
has 5
or 6
chairs
and
they
are
all
basket
cases,
they
tell
me
they
will
just
buy
new
chairs,
unless
I drop
my
prices.
I
tell
them
if I
drop
my
prices,
I
will
have
to cut
my
time,
which
means
I
won't
be
able
to
guarantee
the
job,
and
in
which
case I
won't
accept
the
job.
After
explaining
this
to the
customer,
I
end up
getting
80% of
the
jobs,
ON
MY
TERMS.
Plus
I get
the
reputation
where
if I
can't
do it
my
way,
go
somewhere
else.
The
average
there
is
that
word
again)
chair
takes
me
from
20
minutes
to 1/2
hour.
Basket
cases
can
take
up to
an
hour
or
more.
Caning
and
rushing
I
charge
an
ave.
of
$150.00
Refinishing
chairs
I
charge
$150.00
and
up,regluing
is
extra.
Hand
caning
I farm
out to
the
workshop
for
the
blind.
They
charge
$45.00
to
$55.00.
Stripping
chairs
only
I
charge
$95.00
to
$135.00
If you
would
like
detailed
step
by
step
written
instructions
on the
techniques
I use
to
reglue
chairs,
I
have
written
a
guide
on the
subject,
and it
is
available
on my
web
site.
Question
#72 -
Hi
there.
. .
so
glad I
found
you on
the
net!
I have
2
questions
regarding
old
furniture
if I
may.
The
first
- I
have
discovered
two
pieces
of old
furniture
in our
"barn"
that I
would
like
to
restore
and
bring
into
the
house
- the
first
thought
is how
do I
check
for
any
insects/bugs
in the
wood?
or is
there
a
product
that I
could
put on
the
base
of the
wood
(it's
a
table
top
base
that I
am
referring
to) to
ensure
that
any
parasites
are
killed?
my 2nd
question:
I
found
an old
4
drawer
dresser
that I
am
very
fond
of,
however,
I
discovered
when
opening
the
drawers
that
the
mice
in the
barn
were
also
fond
of
this
piece.
I
planned
on
knocking
out
the
existing
drawer
bottoms
and
replacing
them
with
new
wood
but
what
kind
of
cleaning/disinfecting
product
can I
use to
rid
the
piece
of any
smell
or
parasite?
Thank
you so
very
much
for
your
help.
I look
forward
to
your
response.
Lisa
Answer - My first thought is to have them dipped.
That will kill anything.
You could go to your garden center and purchase a insect bomb, and place a plastic drop cloth or large plastic bag over the furniture and place the bomb inside. Leave it undisturbed for a day.
Baking Soda and water wash should remove any smell.
Applying Cedar Oil after washing is an other idea.
An O-Zone generator is an other thought. They are great for removing odors. Check them out on my web site, listed as Removing Odors.
Question
#73 -
Hi -
can
you
pls
tell
me how
to
repair
scratches
(some
light,
some
heavy)
on
black
lacquer
furniture
?
Thanks
for
your
help.
Lalig
Answer
-
Removing
Scratches.
This
information
addresses
the
problem
ONLY
if
If the
damage
is not
into
the
substrate.
If the
damage
is
through
the
finish
and
the
color,
you
will
need
to use
fill
in
sticks,
or
lacquer
hot
melt
sticks,
and
that
will
be
found
in an
other
report.
There
are
many
techniques
used
to
remove
scratches.
At
this
time I
will
be
addressing
one of
them,
called
The
Aerosol
Technique.
If the
scratch
is to
deep
to be
rubbed
out
with
steel
wool,
and
you
can
feel
it
with
your
finger,
then
it
will
need
to be
filled.
If the
color
is not
missing,
you
can
use
Aerosol
Sanding
Sealer.
Start
by
spraying
over
the
area,
using
short
even
strokes.
The
lacquer
base
sealer
will
fill
in
these
scratches.
Once
filled,
Let
Dry!
Sand
with
400
grade
free
cut
paper
wrapped
around
a
sanding
block.
Sand
with
the
grain
being
carful
not to
sand
through
any
color.
Clean
the
area
with a
dry
clean
cloth.
Rub
with
0000
steel
wool
to
remove
the
patterns
left
by the
sandpaper.
If the
pattern
of the
sandpaper
show
up!
Repeat
the
process.
When
ALL
signs
of the
pattern
are
gone,
reestablish
the
proper
sheen.
Use
the
proper
sheen
of
aerosol
spray.
If
required, use
0000
steel
wool
to
correct
any
over
spray.
______________________________________________________________
BRUSHING
TECHNIQUE
You
can
apply
sanding
sealer
by
brush.
You a
FINE
artist
brush.
Spray
a
little
aerosol
sanding
sealer
into
the
cap of
the
can of
aerosol
sealer,
using
it as
a
small
container.
Dip
your
brush
into
the
container
and
pick
up a
little
sealer,
wipe
off
the
excess
on a
piece
of
paper,
rolling
the
brush
to a
sharp
point.
NOTE:
- You
want
to
apply
a
little
at a
time.
You
can