Free Furniture Refinishing Tips

This page is where I answer all my e-mail questions on furniture refinishing and repairs

#1-Question - What type of glue do you recommend to reglue chairs.I reglued a chair and it did not stay glued.

Answer- It may be because you didn't clean the joints well enough,or your joints didn't fit properly.

#4 - Question - How do I find out if my grandmother's dining room set (purchased in the 1920's) is worth restoring? I live in a suburb of Detroit, Michigan.

Also an appraisal from an antique dealer.

Question #6 -I have furniture in good shape except a couple of pieces have mold/mildew in
a few small places. Can you tell me what I can use to clean the pieces off
without hurting the finish?

Answer -

How to get rid of mold and mildew

mix 10% household ammonia with water in a Qt. spray
bottle, spray it on wipe it off.

Repeat if needed.

Stubborn areas rub lightly with fine steel wool.

As a added extra

Wipe on Restore-A-Finish.

to follow up and protect the finish.

Just follow their directions when using.

If you can't find the product go to

http://www.constantines.com

Question #7

I have a question I'm hoping you can help with. I have a couple of Oak chairs (part of a 6-chair dining set) stored in a

storage unit that was recently re roofed without our knowledge. When I recently went to my storage unit the sloppy roofers had dripped a tremendous amount of tar all over these two chairs. The roofers returned to view the damage and told us that the tar can be removed relatively inexpensive. Can you tell me if this is true?

Answer -

Is this covered by insurance?

Paint thinner orTurpentine will work in most cases.

But the tar may leave discoloration of your finish,and may need touch up or even refinishing in severe cases.

Try the paint thinner first.

If that doesn't work then use the turpentine.

I would try the paint thinner or turpentine treatment in an inconspicuous area if any, and note the results.

Just apply with a cloth and rub lightly,then let dry completely.

Question -#8

> I hope you can give me some advice. I had a plastic foam-backed table pad
on
> my pine dining room table under the table cloth. The foam rubber has
> deteriorated and is now stuck on the finish of the table. We can rub off
the
> top layer of the foam rubber, but there is still a coating on the table.
We
> have tried mineral spirits, goo gone, and Afta. Can you give any advice
as
> to how to go about removing this mess?
> Thanks for your help.

Answer -Paint thinner would of been my first suggestion.
But you say you tried it.

Well !!!!!! I would try it again.
This time soak the top with it and keep it wet,while rubbing with # 002
steel wool.
If #002 isn't doing the job,switch to a coarser grade.
Use light pressure.
Clean up with clean cloths.
Repeat till results are met.
Remember to keep it wet while rubbing.
When all is removed,apply paste wax to bring back luster.

Question -#9 > I have an old credenza I am looking to refinish. The problen is it is
> covered with some venier. I cannot decide if I should attempt to strip it
> with some type of stripper or sand it. It also has some water and warn
spots
> on it. I gues my question is can I use stripper on venier or will it
damage
> the credenza?

Answer - The stripper won't do any damage IF the veneer is in tack.
Make any repairs on your veneer before you strip.
You DO NOT remove the finish with sandpaper.

Any water damage will need to be treated separately,after stripping.

Worn areas can be touched up also after stripping.

Extra care is needed when working with veneer.

There are many factors involved in refinishing that must be followed,in
order to produce professional results.
Each step in refinishing needs to be completed thoroughly,before moving to
the next step,or your going to run into problems.Problems that are difficult
to correct.

Refinishing with out a guide to follow and learning by trial and error can
be frustrating.

I can attest to that,I learned by trial and error and went through some
frustration times.

When I first started this business over 20 years ago,I could not find any
books or guides that were thorough.
They just did not give me enough information.
If I had any questions,I had no one to turn to.

As I learned by trial and error I started to put everything down on paper,so
other people could benefit from my experience.

I decided to write these reports about 5 years ago.
I write them in easy to follow step-by-step DETAILED instructions,with FREE
consultation e mail support.
So YOU have some one that you can turn to when you have a question.
To local viewers I also offer one-on-one refinishing clinics.\

Question #10 - I am considering refinishing our kitchen cabinets, have done some
> anitques in the past, but am looking for any hints, and debating having
> a local stripper do the doors while I concentrate on the cabinet faces
> (I do not plan to remove the cabinets).
>
> Is there a way to "lighten" the wood any. Our cabinets are about 25
> years old, are solid oak, and have the oringinal dark oak finish. I
> tried one door, but need to get some wire brushes, etc. so I can do a
> more thorough job.
>
> I would appreciate any hints you could pass along.

> Answer - You will need to strip it more than once.
After the first two coats of stripper,
mix in 50% regular house hold bleach with your stripper.
Use #2 steel wool to work the stripper in.
Wipe up with denatured alcohol mixed with water 50% each.
Don't use wire brushed!!!!
Use plastic brushes or old tooth brushes.
After everything is stripped and before finishing,
wipe down everything with paint thinner to reveal the true
color of the wood.
If there are areas that need attention they will be noticeable.
Repeat the paint thinner process if necessary.

Question #11 - I have a dresser that I rescued from the Neighbor's garbage. It
had several layers of paint, but in great condition. as I began to strip it,
I noticed three things: First, the back was extremely oxidized, When I
scraped it with my fingernail, it lightened.I know this means it's an older
piece. The second thing I realized as I stripped is that The bottom layer of
paint was actually a laquer of some sort, and it had black stripes detailing
the sides, and accenting the drawers around the periphery of the front. The
last thing I noticed is that the nails have square tops (hand made?)I am not
sure if It would be a piece better left in the hands of the professionals as
I am afraid I may take value from the piece. Do you have any advice?
>
>Answer - Have a pro strip it BUT It should be hand stripped only.

Question #12 - What should I put on a raw maple butcher block, and how do I
apply it?
Answer -
My choice would be two or three coats of mineral oil.

Thank you for your question!
I hope I have been helpful
Please e mail me if there is something that you are not sure of.

Question - #13

My grandmother had an old cedar chest that she put moth balls in!! I have been told to lightly sand the inside of it to renew the cedar smell. Is this the correct/only thing I need to do to get back the cedar smell?

I would appreciate hearing from you!

Thanks!

Answer - Yes !! Lightly sand it.

Question - #14 - > I have been trying to find either a book or a website with illustrations
and
> information on the restoring/upholstering of antique chairs with the
8-coil
> wiring technique. We bought a house last year and these two chairs were
> inside --nobody had lived there since the owner died about 4 or 5 yrs.
ago.
> These chairs might be from the 40/50's timeframe. They have a beautiful
low
> waterfall back with the seat separated by the arch-crafted wood and
> upholstered with a gold chenille fabric (the back has the tucked buttons
> technique.) A restoration/upholstery shop estimated $500 for restoring
and
> another $500 for upholstering on each chair ($2,000 and I got them for
free.)
> They estimated a price range of $2,500 to $3,500 after fixing them...they
> also suggested a before and after picture for their website publicity. I
> need your expertise and I want to Do-it-Myself for my own reward and maybe
> for my next generation. I have them in my covered deck, but I am afraid
they
> will get damaged. PLEASE HELP. THANKS

Answer - Your taking on a large job that requires special skills.
The first thing that I would recommend is to take a home study course.go to
http://www.foley-belsaw.com
I took their course years ago.I highly recommend them.

Your second option is attending classes at your local trade school.

Your local library may have video tapes that you may use.
or books.

Your local book store is also available.

As for the internet check out http://www.constantines.com
They do have a book on upholstery.

Also check out http://www.amazon.com

Question #15 - How do I clean scratches from my furnature. Thank you for your advice.

Answer -

Use Restore-A-Finish

They should carry it in your area

Just follow directions.

Also you can apply a colored wax

such as Briwax or Antiquax

All products can be found at

http://www.constantines.com

Question -#16 - I have a refinishing problem and don't know which publication to order.
Could you advise me, please? I would very much like to do this project the
first two weeks in July when I am off of work so I need to move forward in
ordering the correct publication. Thank you.

Here is the problem. I have an eastlake side table with what appears to be
a rather large ink stain on it's surface. The whole piece is a bit raggedy
looking and I think I will need to either refinish the whole thing or just
paint it. However, that ink stain bothers me. Is there any way to remove
it without destroying whatever value still exists in the piece? My fear is
that it is impossible to remove. If I paint the piece will the stain bubble
back up through the paint? What would you advise?

Answer - Here are your options.

1- Try removing the stain.
Note: If It's ink,and if the wood is veneer,the stain will be very difficult
to remove completely,plus the stain may have penetrated the veneer all the
way through.
Sometimes you get lucky and other times it's a waste of time.But the only
way to know for sure is to try.
And if you pick this option! I would tell you to mask off every thing but
the stained area and apply some Clorox bleach to the stain,working it in
with a fine brass brush or #2 steel wool.
Repeat till results are obtained.(If any).
If there are no noticeable differences! after a few applications,STOP!!!
It's not going to happen....

#2-Cover the stained veneer completely with a new piece of veneer right over
the damaged piece.
This is best left to a pro.

#3-Cover the area with tinted plate glass.
Cost you about $6.50 a square foot.
You can then restore the rest of the furniture,with out refinishing,IF it's
in good condition.
A Guide on restoring furniture is available on my site.

#4-Refinish it. If it is in to bad a condition to restore.
If the finish is coming off worn out right to the wood
then you will need to refinish.

#5- Paint it!!!!
Well you will still need to prep the piece before hand or even strip it to
do a satisfactory job.or risk the chance of the paint not adhering properly.

Those are your options----With out being able to see your piece of
furniture.I can tell you this. Refinishing is the way I would go mainly
because you would be starting from scratch.
As far as the stain!!! I would add bleach to the stripper and work it in.
You then have the option of plate glass or reveneering.
These are the guides that I recommend
#A-10 How To Restore Furniture Only $3.95
#A-11 Guide to stripping dressers and tables only $9.95
A-7 How to finish oak furniture $9.95

As far as working with veneer,I am working on writing that report and should
have it up on my site with in a week.

Question #17 - Hi Doc. good to meet you on line. I have a question about making a solution to antique new brass. It had been suggested to use a cup of distilled water, 1 tbl. of tsp. and 1/2 tea of liver of sulfur. What the heck is liver of sulfur, is there a simpler name ? I live in Thailand so I need to convey this need in the simplest of terms. I hope you can help me and thanks again

Answer -

Liver of sulfur is actually potassium sulfide.

Question #18 - > I recently inherited an old table and chairs that are 75 years old. My
> husband broke off one of the legs and splintered a small piece of wood at
> the base, because the leg were firmly glued on. He started to pull off the
> other, because we were taking it home from Arkansas to Louisiana and I had
> a fit. Does this devalue the piece? And what glue should I use to repair
it
> with now?

Answer - No this doesn't Devalue the piece!!!

You will need to clean off ALL the old glue COMPLETELY,before regluing.

You can use liquid hide glue to reglue your loose joints.

If required-My guide to regluing chairs is available on my website

Question - #19

I hope that I have found help!!!

I have nice, solid, sturdy PLAIN pine kitchen cabinets. Is it possible to lighten old and yellowed pine to the light , white pine? I think that these were built in the '60's. They are very sturdy and solid still and I hate the thought of painting over the wood.

Is this a bad idea????
Answer -

If your cabinets are made of yellow pine,then the color will be in the wood.

I would suggest test stripping in a inconspicuous spot to see what the color of the wood will reveal.

After stripping,wipe some paint thinner over the stripped area,

this will simulate a clear finish,plus reveal the true color of the wood.

If the color is unacceptable,then you have the option of bleaching,painting,antiquing,or replacing.

Sometimes,replacing the doors and draw fronts will solve the problem.

It depends on what your looking for.

Sometimes the color is in the finish.

You won't know for sure till you test strip.

If you do decide to refinish your cabinets,order my guide to refinishing kitchen cabinets.

It contains 15 pages of detailed step-by-step instructions.

and comes with free consultation to answer any gray areas.

If you need any more help please feel free to contact me.

Question #20 - Hi--
I have a mahogany bedroom set that is in very good shape except for some trim
around the top of the dresser. The dresser is curved and at the top on the
front of the piece, there is a a very thin laminant type strip about 1&1/4
inch that is coming off. Actually, there is a piece about 2& 1/2-3 inches
that is already off & another much smaller section right next do it that
looks like it wants to do the same. Can this be fixed and how? I do have
the piece that came off so if it's a matter of gluing it back on with the
proper adhesive, I can do that.

Any advise would be greatly appreciated. We are looking to sell the set and
I don't want to do so without repair. It's a beautiful set.

Thank you for your time.

Answer -

The proper glue to use would be veneer glue,BUT you can use Franklen regular white glue.

Clean both surfaces well with sandpaper or scrape off the old glue with a sharp knife or razor blade,

what ever will do the job,then wipe up both surfaces with a tack cloth.

Apply your glue to both surfaces,and place in position.

Wipe up all excess glue.

Place wax paper over the repair,and place weight on it or clamps or tape it.

NOTE:-Glue won't stick to waxpaper.

Let set for at lease a few hours,or over night to be sure.

Question - #21

Hello, I have a question? I have a heat spot on my dinning room table and would like to know how to remove it from the finish? It is round and is faded white in color. Any help would be greatly appreciated. By the way, It is mahogany. Thank you and have a great day.

Answer -

The spot is caused by moisture that is trapped in your finish.Try to find a product by Howard called Restore-A-Finish,and just follow directions.

Their # is 1 805 227 1000 if you have problems locating it.

Question - #22

I have a table that has a veneered surface over a poplar plank core. Water damage has peeled the edges in places on one half of the two piece expandable table and warped and split the planking. This table is approximately 90 years old. I am trying to restore it.

I have tried warm water unsuccessfully to soften the glue. Do you have any other suggestions for how I might remove the veneer without destroying it as I would like to save the antiquity of the piece.

Answer -

It depends on the type of glue.

Try the following techniques.

HOT water

Heat Gun

Vinegar

One of these should do the job.

Paid subscriber can go to Furniture Refinishing Online Clinic then to my Refinishers Diary for more tips

To subscribe, click here

Question #23 - I have a cedar chest that needs the finish to be restored. It was built
in
> the 1930's and was kept in an attic. I would like some hints on how to
> revitalize the finish. Thanks for your help in this matter. The finish
has
> fine crack in it and is very dull.

Answer - To restore it all that is required is to clean it up,and apply a compatible
finish right over the old finish.

In the cracks are in the finish,they will less noticeable after the new
finish is applied.

If your intention is to preserve it's antique value,I would leave the cracks
alone.

If you intend on repairing the cracks by refinishing ,it may destroy the
antique value.

For detailed step by step instruction on How to restore furniture check out
my Guide To Restoring Furniture.
at my website.

You will also receive FREE one year consultation with purchase.

Question#24 - > Hello Phil!
>
> Well I say my furniture is in good condition but I am not an
> expert. It has some type of corrosion or substance that was
> spilled onto the dining table and I believe that area will
> actually have to be sanded and refinished. Here is a question for
> you, On my buffet table down on the edge of it the wood is coming
> up almost like it had become wet. it is not buckled but actually
> peeling or crackling. More like its split. Will your guide or can
> you tell me the best way to repair that? Someone advised me to get
> the wood filler but then again this is actually my first furniture
> project and like I said I want it done correctly. What do you
> suggest? Well I will add myself to your list and Will be ordering
> soon. I will be looking forward to the reupholstering instructions
> as well. Thanks again for your help..

Answer - Sounds like the top of your buffet table is veneer.
and what you see on the edge is the veneer lifting up.
That's no problem,it's easy to fix.
Do not use a filler.

You are correct in assuming that you WILL need to
refinish the top of your buffet.
It may be water damage.
What does the damage look like?
What color is it?
Does it look white and hazy?
Is there a build up, or is it level with the surface.

I'll try to write that report on Reupholstering Chair
Seats this week end.
It should be on my website by Monday.

Best Regards,
Phil

Question#25 - > Hello! I have recently acquired a very old dining room table and
> chairs along with a buffet table. They are in serious need of
> refinishing but I am not sure as how to do this the proper way. I
> looked at your website and the guides avaiable but am not sure as
> to which one would better suit my needs. Could you please advise
> as to which guide or guides I may need. Also do your offer any
> help on reupholstering the chairs?

Answer - What has to be done as far as upholstery?
Are we talking about just the seats of the chairs?
If so!! That's no problem,I'll write a report to guide you through.

One thing I want to mention,before I go any further is
please keep in mind that I do offer FREE consultation by E-Mail to answer
any questions you may have,once you order the reports.

I DON'T leave you hanging!!!!!

Here are the reports that I feel you may need.
#A6-Finishing Pine Furniture
OR A7-Finishing Oak Furniture

#A11-Stripping Dressers and Tables
#A4-Stripping Chairs
#A3-Regluing Chairs (Only if they need regluing).
Plus The guide on reupholstering chair seats,I'll write it up and place it
on my website within the next week.(If you need it)

That just about covers it.
Looking forward to working with you.
Any questions....E-Mail me.by replying to THIS E-Mail.
If you haven't done so already !! Sign up to receive my newsletter.It's
FREE.

Best Regards,
Phil M Beaudet
http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/index.htm
phantom2@charter.net

Question - #26

Hi!

I have 4 ladder back chairs with seats that I believe are "rushing" type seats.. the type of twisted material.. We bought these chairs at a yard sale for minimal cost.. but the seats in some spots have stains and are also a very light color. Is there a way to darken up the seats without ruining the "rushing"? I thought about applying a stain but didn't know if it would ruin it.

Any info you could provide is appreciated.

Thank you for your time,

Answer -

Most rushing is finished with either a clear or amber shellac.

You mentioned stains on the rush.

How dark are the stains?

What caused the stains?

Are they paint stains?

I think that you can forget about stripping off the stains

the stripper will most likely ruin the rush.

SOOOOO!!!!!! Here are your options.

You can have a shellac tinted with a stain or paint at a paint supplier,

and apply this over the rush.

You can have the rush replaced.

If you choose to have the rush replaced,find out if there are workshop for the blind outlets in your area.

If there are,they should charge you $45.00 to $80.00

I don't think you will find a better price.

You could get an estimate from a local furniture repair shop.

You could sell them.

And lastly, you could rush the chairs yourself.

They do have classes in some areas that will teach you.

If you can't find someone to teach you, check out my guide on Furniture Repairs,

which includes a guide on Rushing chairs along with 29 other guides.

To view info. click here

And that's about it for your options.

Question - #27

Trying to strip and refinish an oak railing and banister with spindles. Going from dark stain to natural finish. What can be done to make this simpler than sanding!!!!?

Answer -

You picked a tough one there.

After you have it all stripped

I would try mixing 50% Clorox bleach with your stripper,

and working it in with #2 steel wool.

Change your steel wool often.

Open up the pad of steel wool and tear it in two or three strips.

Protect all surrounding areas with tarps

Weather permitting,open some windows

Place a fan in the closest window.blowing out.

Have a window opposite the fan for cross ventilation.

Wear gloves,and respirator.

Get yourself a small brass or plastic brush,and use it also to work out the stain.

You will need to repeat this often before you start to see results.

You should be able to pull most of the color out with the bleach.

For a final step I recommend washing down EVERYTHING

with denatured alcohol and clean cotton cloths.

Repeat this step till there is no evidence of stain showing up

on your cleaning cloth.

Use your small brushes in all inside corners to pull out any

residue that you can't reach with your cleaning cloth.

Sand only to achieve a smooth feel.

Use your denatured alcohol again to pick up the dust from sanding.

Let me know how you make out.

Question #28 - we just brought our first home and the kitchen cabinets are a little worn in
certain area. we can't afford to put a new kitchen in but would like to fix
the old one that are only ten years old. please if there is anyway to fix
them please e-mail me the information thank you for you time
in reading my problem

Answer -

In response to your question.You can either restore them,or refinish them.

To restore them you clean them up and touch up the worn areas and apply a finish to them.

To refinish them you remove the old finish and restrain and apply a new finish to them.

Besides being in the furniture refinishing business,I also write reports on the subject.

I charge a very modest fee,plus offer free consulting with purchase.

click here for information on my guide on Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets.

Question - #29

Hey Furniture Doc!

I am an artistic and one of my clients owns a Union National China Cabinet out of Jamestown NY, she purchased in 1960, from Joseph Hurns in Pittsburgh, PA. All her other pieces have an antique gold trim around draws & other accent areas. This piece was the display model. She is 91 years and wants it to match. I don't want to charge her too much and I am looking for the proper paint to apply to this furniture. Do you have any suggestions, that would make this affordable for her. She cannot afford restoration costs, but I want to make sure I use the proper product to adhere to this piece. Its yellowish-white antique finished with the gold stippled and raged off. Then the trim areas are solid antique gold. Do you have any recommendations for this dear women.

Thanks so much for your time

Answer -

You should be able to apply a regular Gold Leaf Paint as long as you clean the wood first.

If you need to tint the paint to match,your local paint supply should be able to help .

Question#30 -

I have just inherited a old pie safe with the top doors being made of 3 panels (per door) of punched tin. I have stripped the paint from them and now I need to know how to clean and shine them. Could you help me? If not could you tell me where I might get the info I need?

Thanks

Answer -

Is it tin or is it copper.

Most are made of copper.

If it's copper you can pick up a copper cleaner at your local hardware outlet.

If it's tin!! You can clean it with denatured alcohol and fine #000 steel wool.

This will work with copper also.

Question #31-I have a question about refinish vs. cleaning. I have a piano I estimate
to
be appx. 100 years old. The finish is crackled. Is there anything other
than totally refinishing I can do to restore the paino? Thanks.

Answer - I would try to Restore it first.

For a preview with before and after pictures click here

More info. will be found on my Online Clinic

For a list of guides contained in my Online Clinic click here

Question #32 - > I am looking to restore an old french amorire. The hindges that go on the
> cabinet doors I believe they are made by stanley and are called pivot
> hindges. I think the cabinet is about 50 years old. Is there any
information
> you can provide to help me fix this cabinet I am unable to locate the
pivot
> hindge that connect upper and lower to the cabinet and the door.
> Thanks

Answer - Go on line at http://www.wsi-dist.com
or http://www.constaintine.com

Question #33 - > Hi
> Can you advise me?
> I have bought an old dome lid chest which is leather with wood and metal
> fixings.
> Trouble is it has been painted with gloss paint!
> I can pick away some of it but areas are stuck fast.
> Can you advise me on the best way to remove the paint? I realise that the
> leather probably won't look all that great but it's better than it is!
> Thank you for your help
Answer - Use a paste stripper like Zip-Strip and let the stripper do its job.
Put a good heavy coat of stripper on and let it set for 15 minutes.
Then put a second coat on and let that set for 10 minutes.
Remove by using #2 steel wool to loosen the paint.
Then use cloths soaked in lacquer thinner.
The cloths are used instead of steel wool to keep from scratching the
leather.
If it doesn't come off clean,put an other coat of stripper on.
If you let the stripper do its job,the paint will come off a lot easier.
Work a small tooth brush into hard to reach areas.
When most of the paint is removed,wash everything down with lacquer thinner
to remove the remaining paint.
You will need plenty of cloths or rags.
Change to clean cloths often.
Repeat till clean.
Treat the leather with saddle soap.
If necessary color the leather with paste shoe polish.

Question #34 - HI, MY NAME IS BECKY. I FIND THAT REFINISHING WORN OUT FURNITURE IS RELAXING & REWARDING. HOWEVER I AM AT A STANDSTILL WITH MY CURRENT PROJECT. I HAVE A SIX FOOT TALL, EIGHT DRAWER DRESSER MADE OF KNOTTY PINE. THE PREVIOUS OWNEW NOT ONLY SCREWED ON THE HARDWARE, BUT ALSO GLUED, AS WELL AS PAINTED IT ON. PROBLEM? HOW DO I REMOVE THE HARDWARE WITHOUT DAMAGING THE WOOD? ALSO THE HARDWARE (KNOBS) ARE MADE OF BLOCKS OF WOOD. YOUR ADVICE WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED

Answer -

If you can get to the screws,try heating them with an iron,then hit them using your screw driver and a hammer.

As far as the wooden knobs,try placing a chisel at the joint and lightly tap them.

Tap them at the bottom of the knobs so they won't show.

Replace them in the same position.

Let me know how you make out.

Question #35- > How do you remove the legs and rockers from an old rocking chair?
> We do not want to damage the wood.
Answer - Use a dead blow hammer.
If you do not have one, use a regular hammer with a block of wood wrapped
with a piece of old rug or cloths to protect the wood.
Check for any hidden locking brads or dowels,where the legs go into the
rocker,and remove.
On stubborn joints,inject vinegar

Question #36 - > To The Doctor,
> I stumbled across your site after doing a Yahoo search for restoration and
> bannister. I was wondering if you would mind answering a few questions
for
> me, as I do not know who to ask. I have recently purchased an older home
> (c. 1895) that is in very good condition. However, instead of washing any
> woodwork I believe the previous owners just painted everything when it was
> dirty. The bannister is lovely but we are thinking of having it dipped
> instead of stripping it ourselves as we do not have the time and we have a
> million other little projects in the house to work on. I don't know if
you
> can answer these questions sight unseen, but any direction you can give me
> would be helpful. The bannister is straight, with about 20 steps. The
> newel post (I think that is the word) at the top goes straight down to the
> kitchen door down below.
>
> Do you think we can remove the banister? Do we remove the whole unit as
one
> piece or do we take out each spindle, etc. The bottom post does not
appear
> to go into the basement but it is very solid. We are afraid to try to
pry
> it loose because we don't even know how banisters are attached. I know,
we
> sound pretty pathetic, but all our work is slowly paying off in the house,
> and we are enjoying the process....
>
> Lastly, I have been told that some wood should not be dipped as it could
> disintegrate. Is this a factor of the age of the wood, the species?
>
> Thank you for any advise or direction you can provide. And thank you for
> your useful website.
>
Answer - My first choice would be to refinish it on site.
It will take more time to refinish it,BUT you would save time and
aggravation putting it back together again.
Plus you could damage it by taking it apart,creating more work for yourself.
If the paint was applied over a existing varnish,the paint should come off
clean.Use plenty of drop cloths.
Mask off everything.
Use a paste stripper like ZIP-STRIP.
Do a small section at a time.
You may need to apply two coats,one after the other.
Put the first coat on HEAVY,wait about ten minutes,test to see how the paint
comes off.
It should come off cleanly,if not STOP and apply a second HEAVYcoat.
Work with a good light source positioned to one side,but not blinding your
vision.
Wear gloves of course.
When the paint is really ready to be removed,loosen it up with #2 steel
wool.
Then switch to clean rags soaked with lacquer thinner,and remove the paint
all the way down to the raw wood.
This procedure should remove 99% of the paint,depending on how fancy your
spindles are,and how thick the paint is,and how long you leave the stripper
on.
REMEMBER to ONLY do a small section at a time.

What ever remains after, can be removed with steel wool and some picking
tool,like dental tools.
Do one section COMPLETELY before moving on.
You got to get it off WHILE ITS WET.....
After every thing is stripped,
the next step is to wash every thing down with paint thinner,then let dry
for a day.

I realize that you did say that you did not have the time to do it your
self BUT just in case you change your mind.
I have included enough information in this e mail so you will know what your
doing.

You know the old saying,(If you want something done right you got to do it
your self.)

As far as applying your finish coat,I would apply the first TWO coats with a
cloth.
Put it on as if you were dusting.
The third coat (if needed),can also be applied with a cloth or by brush.
Or you may even put all coats on by spraying.
I would use POLY.
I hope this has been helpful to you.
Any questions !!!!! E Mail me.

Question #37 - Where are you located? or is the clinic online in some way?

Answer - My On Line Clinic is a new service that is available to Paid subscribers
to my website,that will be added soon.
For more info on Paid subscriptions click following link
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

I also offer a One-On-One In Shop Clinic to anyone who wants to learn.This
service is available by appointment only.and mostly to local residents.
For location of my in shop clinic,click following link
http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index/about.htm

Question #38 - > hi I live in brooklyn and found your site via Yahoo. do you know of any
folks in NYC that give classes or clinics in refinishing furniture? I'm
coming up empty-handed with the yellow pages...
>
> thanks!
Answer -

I have come up empty handed too.

Sometime there are trade schools that offer classes.

Check with your colleges,they may be of help.

You could always work part time in the trade to get a feel of it.I don't think they will pay much.

Then there is the option of working part time for your self.

That is what I ended up doing.

I could not find any school or training,so I learned on my own.

But I got to tell you,learning by trial and error takes time.

Today,You got the internet.Take advantage of it.

Read every thing you can find,then apply what you have read.

When I first thought of having a In Shop Clinic,I just assumed that there are other shops out there that are also offering the same service.

I guess I was wrong.

Since you can not come to my In Shop Clinic,The next best thing I have to offer is a subscription to my website,with e mail support. Check it out at http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

I wish someone had this opportunity available when I first started.

It would of saved me a lot of time,and frustration.

But back then,there wasn't any internet,and nobody was giving away their trade secrets.

When I had a question,I couldn't send a e mail and receive help with my problem.

Wishing You Success

Best Regards,

Phil M Beaudet

http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net

>Question # 39 - My husband and I have done some refinishing and basic gluing with good
> results. We want to tackle a victorian sofa with a carved mahogany frame
> that is broken in several places. Because it has three curves along the
> back and in at least one place some of the wood is missing where the break
> is, we would like some help or suggestions. Could we send you a sketch
and
> get you to design a guide for us? Please let us know the price for this
and
> we could include it with the sketch. Thanks. Cindy

Answer- Hi Cindy,
Yes I agree to write up a guide for your project.
I would need lots of close up shots of the damage.
And As much info as possible on the piece.
You can send the info by e mail or to my mailing address.
My fee for this service will be $79.00.
Included is one full year of free consultation.
If your not satisfied with the report !!!!
You get your money back,no questions asked.
My mailing address is
Philip M Beaudet
The Furniture Restoration WorkShop
348 East Main St.
Chicopee,MA. 01020
Please include this E Mail with payment.

Question # 40 - Hi, I purchased an old oak dresser and mirror from a friend of mine. I have
heard that you can work with the old finish sometimes and not have to strip
the piece. The finish is original and also the pulls appear to be original.

There was an old piece of linoleum glued to the top of the dresser, which I
removed. Some of the glue remains, but the top doesn't seem to be damaged at
all.

I would like to restore the dresser and pulls also. Could you recommend one
of your books that would help me with this project?

I have enclosed a couple of pictures of the dresser, so you can see what I
will be working with.

Thank you,
Roselie

Answer -

If the piece can be saved,I would recommend guide # A-10.

This will only work IF the piece is in good condition.But it is worth trying to save the old finish.

I would try to save it first.

The guide only cost $3 95.plus a little of your time.

Then if the results are not satisfactory, and it has to be refinished, then I recommend guide # A-11.

Question #41 - i recently inherited an oak table from my great-grandmother. however she had
kept a vinyl tablecloth on it for about 50 years ... so now that it has been
removed, it has started to eat away at the wood. i am scrubbing it down with
Murphy's oil soap to try to get rid of the residue from the tablecloth ...
but it is not completely successful. if you could offer any other tips in
restoring this precious heirloom it would be enormously appreciated. Thank
you.

_-Georgia-_

Answer - Use Paint thinner,Keep the surface wet at ALL times. NEVER Let it dry out This is very important. Rub Lightly with # 0 steel wool. Increase pressure ONLY if neccesary.Wipe up with clean dry cloths. Repeat till satisfactory results are obtained. NOTE You may have to repeat this technique several times.By keeping the surface wet at all times insures that you not scratch the surface. When all is removed and the surface is scratched,apply some paste wax such as BRIWAX. OR a thin coat of varnish.or bulls eye amber shellac.

Question #42 - I have an old wood chair that I don't want to sand or stip . I want to
> keep the overall character of the chair. I just want to clean it up a
> bit as it has stains etc. what sort of product would you use?
>
Answer - Check out my guide to restoring furniture.http://thefurnituredoctor.net/wd50.htm

View this guide along with over 100 other guides FREE for one week.

This is a special time limit offer. Take advantage of it while it is available.

To subscribe to my one week free offer to my Online Clinic click here

This free offer will be discontinued at any time

Question #43 - > I have a pine chest of drawers that is fairly new. The top is stained and
> evidently not sealed or not well sealed anyway. I placed a mexican painted
> clay pot with water & flowers. The water eventually seeped thru, leaving a
> ring. Is it possible to remove the stain, or draw as much as possible out
of
> the wood prior to trying to sand the top?
>
Answer -

Check out my guide to restoring furniture.http://thefurnituredoctor.net/wd50.htm

View this guide along with over 100 other guides FREE for one week.

This is a special time limit offer. Take advantage of it while it is available.

To subscribe to my one week free offer to my Online Clinic click here

This free offer will be discontinued at any time

Question #44 - I recently bought an old armoire with some damage to the left front leg.
> The leg runs the length of the piece, and has been hit hard enough to
> splinter off an eight inch section that , in the middle, is over .5 inch
> deep. It was glued back in place, but not fitted properly. What is the
> best way of getting this splintered wood off? Eventually, should I
re-glue
> this piece in place or just cut it out and fit a new piece in its place?
Answer - You may not be able to remove this glued up piece with out damage.SO my first thought would be to try to reinforce it by installing some screws and countersinking them then plugging the screw heads,and sanding flush.------When sanding the plugs,apply tape around the plugs to protect the surrounding surfaces.-----Fill in any imperfections with a wax fill in stick.OR Lacquer stick.-----OR----- You can apply Hot glue and sand down. I have tried the hot glue and it works great !!!!!

Question - #45

Do you have any ideas on how to get cigarette smoke out of antique wood furniture. I have a dresser and chest of drawers. I tried lemon oil, cedar chips, dryer sheets, and sitting it out in the sun. When I open the drawers, I still smell it.

HELP!

Answer - An O-Zone Negative Ion Generator would do the job. If you know someone that has one,ask to borrow it for a day or two.----To learn more on O-Zone Generators go to my Online Clinic page at http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm, You can also wash all exterior surfaces with paint thinner and apply a thin coat of finish to trap the odor.----On ALL the interior you will need to wash everything down with paint thinner then let it dry OR force dry it then seal EVERYTHING inside with a shellac.That means EVERYTHING inside including the insides and outsides of the drawers and the whole carcass.

Question #46 - Hi,
I have an old "mission oak" type rocker with leather seat and back. I just
happen to have some leather and would like to attempt covering this myself.
Do you have any suggestions on how to go about it? The chair itself does not
need to be refinished. Sincerely Nancy

Answer - Hi Nancy, I would very carefully remove the old leather,without damaging it and simply use it as a pattern for the new leather.<