Answer - Never tried to refinish rubber wood. I think the problem here would be sealing it .You may need to apply more then one coat of sealer. Then you should be able to finish it just like any other wood.

Question - #66

Answer - To be sure I would have it dipped. Nothing will live through that. Then your safe.

Question # 67- Dear 'Doctor':

I purchased A lovely old (not sure how old) chest of drawers.  It is
tiger oak with curved legs that sit 6 or 7 inches from the floor and has
a swinging mirror.  The mirror has side arms (shaped like the legs)
which attach it to the top of the chest.  Some pieces of veneer are
missing from around the curved face/frame of the mirror.  The mirror is
in very good shape.  The drawers all fit and are not warped.  I need to
add a spot of glue to one joint at the base and secure one of the center
drawer supports that is loose.  some one tried to refinish it darker
than the original color and stained the sides and backs and insides of
the drawers.  It has wooden wheels and though they show signs of
'arthritis' seem to roll well.  the estimates I have range from $500 to
800 to refinish the old beauty but in reviewing the books and techniques
used to do the work i think I can do it myself.  I need to replace one
of the keyhole lock faces on one drawer and would love to find a key
that would work.  Any advice?

Thank you.  Gwenn Asher

Answer - As far as the key ! A lock smith would be your best bet. As far as refinishing it your self!!! Go for it. If you need help!! I offer consultation with any purchase of my guides.

Question #68 -> I am interested in refinishing my kitchen cabinets.  They were custom-made
> when the house was built approximately 45 years ago.  The doors are
slatted
> which I really like.  At some point a previous owner put a coat of shellac
> on them to spiff them up which complicates things.
> How difficult will it be for us to sand it down.  I have only sanded a
time
> or two so am not an expert.  I might be interested in purchasing your
> information for kitchen cabinet restoration if we decide it's worth it to
> pursue this.  Thanks for any info.  Joanne Shaver
>
Answer - Dear Joanne,
Thank you for your interest.
If the tables were turned, and I found someone who wrote step by step
detailed instructional guides on refinishing kitchen cabinets, plus was
offered free consultation for one year, to answer any questions that I may
have, I would at lease order it and check it out. THEN !!  if I decided it
was a waste of money, I would ask for a refund.

My guides are the results of over 20 years of trial and error. I do not write
these guides to get rich. I write them because what is out there now as far
as how to guides, leave you hanging plus they don't offer any support as far
as consultation, Plus they don't get into the details. But I can't simply
give them away. I put to much time into it.      So order the guide and check
it out. At this time I am offering a FREE guide to stripping and finishing
interior wood work with purchase of my guide to refinishing kitchen
cabinets. Take advantage of this FREE offer while it's still available.
Regards,
Phil M Beaudet
http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

mailto:phantom2@charter.net

Question #69 - My son had a friend whose house burnt a few weeks ago.  While he was helping
them to clean up he noticed that there was an old upright piano in the living
room that hadn't burnt but did have alot of soot from the smoke.  He asked
him what they were going to do with it and he said they would just dump it,
too.  I had been looking for one for my Grandchildren to learn to play on and
didn't want to put alot of money in one until I knew for sure they were
serious about learning.  My son asked if I could have it and the next thing I
knew, here was this piano.  I did wipe down a small spot in an inconspicuous
place and the wood is beautiful and it still has some of the shine.  What I
would like to know is the safest way to clean this off and there is also some
melted candle wax on the top where she had some candles.  I have carefully
cleaned  the most part of it off except there is still a fine layer that
would keep any type of cleaner from getting through but I didn't want to
scrape to the point of scratching.  A man that just happened by when they
were unloading the piano stopped and said the wood looked like "Tiger eye
Maple"...????  This I am not sure because I have never heard of it.  He
suggested that I take "Dawn" dish detergent and spread it over the entire
piano and let it sit for 3 days then wipe it down and all the smokey damage
will come off.  It turns out that this piano is beautiful and if there is any
way it can be saved I would like to try.  There are a few keys that are
sticking and I am told that can be remedied and my son didn't know to close
the cover over the keys while they were transporting it and a few of the
ivory pieces blew off. (The heat loosened the glue holding them on.)  Of
course it will need tuning again, though it doesn't sound too bad now.  We
did WD-40 the strings to keep them from rusting and I got that advice from
the tuner.  They found a date on the inside that said 1848.  If there is
anything you can tell me to help...I don't want to do anything until I'm sure
I won't damage this piece. 

          Thank you  for any advice

Answer - I would saturate the wood with paint thinner and clean cloths. Repeat till results are obtained.

Next- If the results prove favorable would apply a light coat of paste wax. However   If the results are not favorable, you may need to refinish it. If the finish just needs sprucing up, I would purchase a product called Restore-A Finish, just follow the directions ,and you should be all set.

As far as using DAWN, I have never tried it and mainly because if it contains any water it could create other problems, plus because I already know that paint thinner will work, why should I take the gamble.

As far as the strings, I would apply a light coat of sewing machine oil, and wipe up the excess, after removing any possible rust with WD-40.

As far as removing any smoke odor, I would look into purchasing or borrowing a O-Zone generator.

As far as any keys that came loose, I would scrape off all the old glue from both surfaces and apply gorilla glue, and clamp till glue sets up.

Next  day-Clean off all excess glue from keys.

If I can be of further help please contact me.

Question - #70

Answer - Restore-A-Finish would be the product that I would recommend. Just follow directions. There are many old timer remedies to try, BUT some could prove to be risky. Restore-A-Finish usually does the job satisfactory, with very little risk involved. Personally I would use DENATURED ALCOHOL,-But you have to use the proper technique, and it could be damaging especially if you have never attempted it before. If you do not want to take the chance !!!!  Have a pro do it.              However !! If you want to try the denatured alcohol technique, here it is.     Make a ball out of a clean cloth and pour some denatured alcohol onto it. Then with your other hand pat the ball of cloth till most of the alcohol is removed from it. Then with a pendulum motion, swing the ball over the spot just barely touching the area. Repeat till results are obtained. Finish up with a light coat of wax.

Question #71 - What is the average price to reglue chairs?

Answer - Regluing chairs has become my specialty. When I get chairs that no one has
tried to reglue,the price can average from $55.00 to over $100.00.It depend
on the style, and the fit, and if there are any broken or missing parts.etc.

On the other hand if the chairs have been worked on before, the price will
sometimes double. I have learned the hard way, I got burnt to many times. I had
customers bring me chairs in plastic bags and boxes. Sometimes the chairs
were put back together wrong. and I didn't catch it in time.
After a few experiences like this, you take the time to really inspect all
chairs for any possible problem. Sure !! I charge the extra, I call it my
aggravation fee.
Sometimes I'll get chairs where no one messed with, but the joints poorly
matched. I'll point this out along with any thing else I find to the
customer. And I won't guarantee this particular chair.
There is no easy way to reglue a chair.
As far as just squirting any type of glue into a joint, and expecting it to
stay ! Well  - If you can be sure that you can clean the joint and clamp it
properly, it may stay. But I wouldn't guarantee it. I just wouldn't take the
chance. I don't want it coming back, It makes you look bad.
Sometimes if the customer has 5 or 6 chairs and they are all basket
cases, they tell me they will just buy new chairs, unless I drop my prices. I
tell them if I drop my prices, I will have to cut my time, which means I won't
be able to guarantee the job, and in which case I won't accept the job. After
explaining this to the customer, I end up getting 80% of the jobs, ON MY
TERMS. Plus I get the reputation where if I can't do it my way, go somewhere
else.
The average there is that word again) chair takes me from 20 minutes to 1/2
hour.
Basket cases can take up to an hour or more.
Caning and rushing I charge an ave. of $150.00
Refinishing chairs I charge $150.00 and up,regluing is extra.
Hand caning I farm out to the workshop for the blind. They charge $45.00 to
$55.00.
Stripping chairs only  I charge $95.00 to $135.00

If you would like detailed step by step written instructions on the techniques I use to reglue chairs, I have written a guide on the subject, and it is available on my web site.

Question #72 - Hi there. . .   so glad I found you on the net!  I have 2 questions
regarding old furniture if I may.  The first - I have discovered two
pieces of old furniture in our "barn" that I would like to restore and
bring into the house - the first thought is how do I check for any
insects/bugs in the wood?  or is there a product that I could put on the
base of the wood (it's a table top base that I am referring to) to
ensure that any parasites are killed?

my 2nd question:  I found an old 4 drawer dresser that I am very fond
of, however, I discovered when opening the drawers that the mice in the
barn were also fond of this piece.  I planned on knocking out the
existing drawer bottoms and replacing them with new wood but what kind
of cleaning/disinfecting product can I use to rid the piece of any smell
or parasite?

Thank you so very much for your help.  I look forward to your response.

Lisa

Answer - My first thought is to have them dipped.

That will kill anything.

You could go to your garden center and purchase a insect bomb, and place a plastic drop cloth or large plastic bag over the furniture and place the bomb inside.  Leave it undisturbed for a day.

Baking Soda and water wash should remove any smell.

Applying Cedar Oil after washing is an other idea.

An O-Zone generator is an other thought. They are great for removing odors.   Check them out on my web site, listed as Removing Odors.

Question #73 - Hi - can you pls tell me how to repair scratches (some light, some heavy) on
black lacquer furniture ?  Thanks for your help.

Lalig

Answer - 

Removing Scratches.

This information addresses the problem ONLY if

If the damage is not into the substrate.

If the damage is through the finish and the color,

you will need to use fill in sticks, or lacquer hot melt sticks,

and that will be found in an other report.


There are many techniques used to remove scratches.

At this time I will be addressing one of them,

called The Aerosol Technique.

If the scratch is to deep to be rubbed out with steel wool,

and you can feel it with your finger, then it will need to be filled.

If the color is not missing, you can use Aerosol Sanding Sealer.

Start by spraying over the area, using short even strokes.

The lacquer base sealer will fill in these scratches.

Once filled, Let Dry!

Sand with 400 grade free cut paper wrapped around a sanding block.

Sand with the grain being carful not to sand through any color.

Clean the area with a dry clean cloth.

Rub with 0000 steel wool to remove the patterns left by the sandpaper.

If the pattern of the sandpaper show up! Repeat the process.

When ALL signs of the pattern are gone, reestablish the proper sheen.

Use the proper sheen of aerosol spray.

If required, use 0000 steel wool to correct any over spray.
______________________________________________________________

BRUSHING TECHNIQUE 

You can apply sanding sealer by brush.

You a FINE artist brush.

Spray a little aerosol sanding sealer into the cap of the can of

aerosol sealer, using it as a small container.

Dip your brush into the container and pick up a little sealer,

wipe off the excess on a piece of paper, rolling the brush to a sharp point.

NOTE: - You want to apply a little at a time. You can