Furniture refinishing tips,tricks of the trade,techniques,and trade secrets

This page is a sample of my Questions and Answer page where I answer all my e-mail questions on furniture refinishing and repairs

Question- What type of glue do you recommend to reglue chairs. I reglued a chair and it did not stay glued.

Answer- It may be because you didn't clean the joints well enough, or your joints didn't fit properly.

Question - How do I find out if my grandmother's dining room set (purchased in the 1920's) is worth restoring? I live in a suburb of Detroit, Michigan.

Also an appraisal from an antique dealer.

Question -I have furniture in good shape except a couple of pieces have mold/mildew in
a few small places. Can you tell me what I can use to clean the pieces off
without hurting the finish?

Answer -

How to get rid of mold and mildew

mix 10% household ammonia with water in a Qt. spray
bottle, spray it on wipe it off.

Repeat if needed.

Stubborn areas rub lightly with fine steel wool.

As a added extra

Wipe on Restore-A-Finish.

to follow up and protect the finish.

Just follow their directions when using.

If you can't find the product go to

http://www.constantines.com

Question

I have a question I'm hoping you can help with. I have a couple of Oak chairs (part of a 6-chair dining set) stored in a

storage unit that was recently re roofed without our knowledge. When I recently went to my storage unit the sloppy roofers had dripped a tremendous amount of tar all over these two chairs. The roofers returned to view the damage and told us that the tar can be removed relatively inexpensive. Can you tell me if this is true?

Answer -

Is this covered by insurance?

Paint thinner or Turpentine will work in most cases.

But the tar may leave discoloration of your finish, and may need touch up or even refinishing in severe cases.

Try the paint thinner first.

If that doesn't work then use the turpentine.

I would try the paint thinner or turpentine treatment in an inconspicuous area if any, and note the results.

Just apply with a cloth and rub lightly, then let dry completely.

Question -

> I hope you can give me some advice. I had a plastic foam-backed table pad
on
> my pine dining room table under the table cloth. The foam rubber has
> deteriorated and is now stuck on the finish of the table. We can rub off
the
> top layer of the foam rubber, but there is still a coating on the table.
We
> have tried mineral spirits, goo gone, and Afta. Can you give any advice
as
> to how to go about removing this mess?
> Thanks for your help.

Answer -Paint thinner would of been my first suggestion.
But you say you tried it.

Well !!!!!! I would try it again.
This time soak the top with it and keep it wet, while rubbing with # 002
steel wool.
If #002 isn't doing the job, switch to a coarser grade.
Use light pressure.
Clean up with clean cloths.
Repeat till results are met.
Remember to keep it wet while rubbing.
When all is removed, apply paste wax to bring back luster.

Question - > I have an old credenza I am looking to refinish. The problem is it is
> covered with some veneer. I cannot decide if I should attempt to strip it
> with some type of stripper or sand it. It also has some water and warn
spots
> on it. I guess my question is can I use stripper on veneer or will it
damage
> the credenza?

Answer - The stripper won't do any damage IF the veneer is in tack.
Make any repairs on your veneer before you strip.
You DO NOT remove the finish with sandpaper.

Any water damage will need to be treated separately, after stripping.

Worn areas can be touched up also after stripping.

Extra care is needed when working with veneer.

There are many factors involved in refinishing that must be followed, in
order to produce professional results.
Each step in refinishing needs to be completed thoroughly, before moving to
the next step, or your going to run into problems. Problems that are difficult
to correct.

Refinishing with out a guide to follow and learning by trial and error can
be frustrating.

I can attest to that, I learned by trial and error and went through some
frustration times.

When I first started this business over 20 years ago, I could not find any
books or guides that were thorough.
They just did not give me enough information.
If I had any questions, I had no one to turn to.

As I learned by trial and error I started to put everything down on paper, so
other people could benefit from my experience.

I decided to write these reports about 10 years ago.
I write them in easy to follow step-by-step DETAILED instructions, with FREE
consultation e mail support. click here for a list of guide available

So YOU have some one that you can turn to when you have a question.
To local viewers I also offer one-on-one refinishing clinics.

Question - I am considering refinishing our kitchen cabinets, have done some
> anitques in the past, but am looking for any hints, and debating having
> a local stripper do the doors while I concentrate on the cabinet faces
> (I do not plan to remove the cabinets).
>
> Is there a way to "lighten" the wood any. Our cabinets are about 25
> years old, are solid oak, and have the oringinal dark oak finish. I
> tried one door, but need to get some wire brushes, etc. so I can do a
> more thorough job.
>
> I would appreciate any hints you could pass along.

> Answer - You will need to strip it more than once.
After the first two coats of stripper,
mix in 50% regular house hold bleach with your stripper.
Use #2 steel wool to work the stripper in.
Wipe up with denatured alcohol mixed with water 50% each.
Don't use wire brushed!!!!
Use plastic brushes or old tooth brushes.
After everything is stripped and before finishing,
wipe down everything with paint thinner to reveal the true
color of the wood.
If there are areas that need attention they will be noticeable.
Repeat the paint thinner process if necessary. more info.

Question - I have a dresser that I rescued from the Neighbor's garbage. It
had several layers of paint, but in great condition. as I began to strip it,
I noticed three things: First, the back was extremely oxidized, When I
scraped it with my fingernail, it lightened.I know this means it's an older
piece. The second thing I realized as I stripped is that The bottom layer of
paint was actually a laquer of some sort, and it had black stripes detailing
the sides, and accenting the drawers around the periphery of the front. The
last thing I noticed is that the nails have square tops (hand made?)I am not
sure if It would be a piece better left in the hands of the professionals as
I am afraid I may take value from the piece. Do you have any advice?
>
>Answer - Have a pro strip it BUT It should be hand stripped only.

Question - What should I put on a raw maple butcher block, and how do I
apply it?

Answer - There are many products to pick from, that will do the job.
My choice would be two or three coats of poly.
Put the coats on thin.
Buy a good quality brush.
Flage your brush, to remove any loose bristles.
Sand between coats.
Pick-up with a tack cloth.
Before you start!!!!
Before you apply your finish pick a day that is going to
be suitable for applying poly.
No. or low, humidity
Temperature should be between 65 to 75 degrees.
Work with a light source in front of you.
Don't have a fan blowing.
If possible, work with a movable light source.
Keep moving your light source so you can see the finish
going on the wood perfectly.

Make sure your working area is clean.
Make sure your piece is ready for finishing.
Sand lightly with 150 grit sandpaper.
Make sure that your piece is clean.
Clean the piece first with a wood cleaner.
Or use paint thinner ,as a wood cleaner in a pinch.
Use clean rags to apply and wipe up.
Let dry 24 hours, before applying your poly.
Most Important!!! Read all manufactures directions.
When your all done, take the time to clean your brush
with a good brush cleaner.
Let the brush dry for a day, then wrap with saran wrap, or plastic wrapping.
Take your time, don't rush, and you shouldn't have any problems

Thank you for your question!
I hope I have been helpful
Please e mail me if there is something that you are not sure of.

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