The Furniture Doctor Newsletter Back Issues Part 2

The Furniture Doctor Newsletter
10/7/2001

In this issue I will be talking about filling in defects,and the different

techniques that available.


#1- Wax fill in sticks - Good for scratches,and small dings,dents or nicks.

For scratches just rub across the scratch with the stick till it's full.

Wipe off the excess with a cloth.


For dings,dents or nicks,you can also try rubbing across the defect.

Or you may have to melt some into the defect with a burning tool,melting enough

to fill just above the surface,then shaving the excess off with a cabinet

scraper,or sandpaper.

Note if working with a finished piece,protect the surface with balm,

or paint thinner.
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#2- Lacquer sticks - Or Burn-in sticks - These have to be melted into

the defect.The surfaces need to be protected with balm also,plus

the excess need to be removed with the burn in tool.

This technique is a little more difficult to master.
__________________________________________________________________

#3- Wood puddy - This is easier to use,but harder to finish.

You can either use as is,apply it to the defect,sand down,then stain

to match.

Or color the puddy first then apply.

You can use regular stain,or aniline dye to add color.
__________________________________________________________________

#4 - Saw dust and white glue.

Sand in a inconspicuous area just to gather excess saw dust,and

mix in some glue,and use this as a filler.

Note;- Old timers have been using this technique for years.
______________________________________________________________

#5 - Boil up the defect with steam.

This technique will bring up the defect some times all the way back,

but not always !!!

How it's done !!

Some people place a wet cloth over the defect and run an iron

over it.Check it often for results.

Some times you can just drop water into the defect and place

the tip of a soldering gun into the defect,always making sure

to have water present on the defected area,till the defect rises

to the surface.DON"T LET IT DRY OUT.!!!!!
___________________________________________________________________

#6 - Hot Glue Gun.

YES ! You read it right !!

I discovered this technique by curiosity.

I just wanted to try it to see if it would work.

Last week I was working on a dresser top,that had a missing corner that

I had to rebuild about 1/8 inch deep by three inches long of missing wood.

Corners can be difficult to rebuild using other methods.

I glued a straght edge on both sides,and applied oil so the hot glue

would not stick.

Next I applied hot glue to the defect and let it cool off.

Next I removed the straght edges,and applied masking tape to the surounding

finish area to protect the finish.

Next I started to reshape the hot glue,using a sharp knife,to remove

most of the excess.

Next I switched to some # 80 grit sand paper and removed the masking tape

and sanded the hot glue along with the rest of the molded edge of the

dresser top edge to draw some of the saw dust into the hot glue defected

area.

This automaticly added or draged color to the hot glued area,and blended

the hot glued damaged area perfectly.
__________________________________________________________________________

#7 - Sometimes you can cut out the damaged area,and replace it with new

wood of the same species.Expecially of corners or edges of dresser tops.

Then you can reshape it and stain it to match.
____________________________________________________________________________

#8 - Surfaces - Some times you can use a plug cutter,to drill out a small

defect,and insert a plug,then plan off and stain to match.

Using this technique you would choose a wood as close to possible to matching

the color and grain of the defected area.

Plus you would use the surface of the wood to drill your new replacment plugs.
_______________________________________________________________________________

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The Furniture Doctor News letter

10./15/2001

First my view on the attack on america is horrible.My heart goes out to all those

involved.The people over there must have been brainwashed.

I for one am sick and tired of our government pussyfooting around.

I have been very busy with my web site lately.and have added

a few new items.

I will be adding Illustrated projects to my web site soon.


I have received many e mails asking what I charge to reglue chairs.



Regluing chairs has become my specialty.When I get chairs that no one has

tried to reglue,the price can average from $55.00 to over $100.00.It depend

on the style,and the fit,and if there are any broken or missing parts.etc.

On the other hand if the chairs have been worked on before,the price will

sometimes double.I have learned the hard way,I got burnt to many times.I had

customers bring me chairs in plastic bags and boxes.Sometimes the chairs

were put back together wrong.and I didn't catch it in time.

After a few experiences like this,you take the time to really inspect all

chairs for any possible problem.Sure !! I charge the extra,I call it my

aggravation fee.

Sometimes I'll get chairs where no one messed with,but the joints poorly

matched.I'll point this out along with any thing else I find to the

customer.And I won't guarantee this particular chair.

There is no easy way to reglue a chair.

As far as just squirting any type of glue into a joint,and expecting it to

stay ! Well - If you can be sure that you can clean the joint and clamp it

properly,it may stay.But I wouldn't guarantee it.I just wouldn't take the

chance.I don't want it coming back,It makes you look bad.

Sometimes if the customer has 5 or 6 chairs and they are all basket

cases,they tell me they will just buy new chairs,unless I drop my prices.I

tell them if I drop my prices,I will have to cut my time,which means I won't

be able to guarantee the job,and in which case I won't accept the job.After

explaining this to the customer,I end up getting 80% of the jobs,ON MY

TERMS.Plus I get the reputation where if I can't do it my way,go somewhere

else.

The average(there is that word again) chair takes me from 20 minutes to 1/2

hour.

Basket cases can take up to an hour or more.

Caning and rushing I charge an ave. of $150.00

Refinishing chairs I charge $150.00 and up,regluing is extra.

Hand caning I farm out to the workshop for the blind.They charge $45.00 to

$55.00.

Stripping chairs only I charge $95.00 to $135.00


If you have a project that you want included on my web site ?

Let Me know !!!!


Lets pray that we get out of this Attack on America with as little

loss of American lives as possible.

I for one vote to flatten who ever is responsible PERIOD !!!

OR - They are just going to keep coming back.

Take Care,

Best Regards,

Phil M Beaudet
 

10/20/2001
The Furniture Doctor News Letter

This Issues Tip:

Sagging Cane.

To tighten up sagging cane sponge soak with hot water

and vinegar 50% each,and let dry in the sun for a day.

Soak both sides of the cane.




For more tips,subscribe to my on line clinic FREE

one week trial.You may cancel at any time.

To subscribe click here


Subscribers to my web site receive everything

featured on my site plus ALL my Illustrated

Project Guides FREE !!!

To view my latest Illustrated Project Guide which

is not completed yet

click the following link.

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/wss2.htm

Best Regards,

Phil M Beaudet

http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/

The Furniture FREE Newsletter
Date = 10/28/2001
Issue#3009
Subject Regluing


Dear Subscribers,

In my business I get to do a lot of regluing,and I

Charge a pretty price to reglue,especially if the piece

has been reglued by a amerture,mainly because I have to

remove ALL of the old glue,which is very time consuming.

Most lay men do not understand that when regluing,you MUST

remove ALL of the old glue,or the joints will not hold up.

I prefer to scrape off the old glue.However there are other ways to

accomplish this.A sharp pocket knife will do.

Sometimes Hot water and vinegar will dissolve it,but it is messy

plus you have to wait till the joint dries before you go any further.

I have tried all the different ways,and ended up dry scrapping.

You got to be carful to remove only the old glue and not the wood.

There are other chemicals out there that will also dissolve the old

glue BUT again they are messy.

I sometimes use a file to finish up.

Also I use wire brushes pipe cleaners that the plumbers use to

clean up the insides of their copper pipes.They work pretty good.Get

ALL the sizes,

You WILL use them all at one time or another.

If the joints fit loose !!! tighten then up by adding thin strips

of veneer or cut up your own.

Thread wrapped around the joint,don't work.

Those metal strips you see advertised are useless.

Till next Issue.

Happy Gluing.

You can now view my FREE Newsletter Archives,

plus my tips archives page.

Check it out.It is included in this e mail.
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The Furniture FREE Newsletter Date = 11/17/2001 Subject The Furniture Doctor Newsletter Subject Spraying Tips. Dear Subscribers, This Issue is for those of you who spray. There are rules to follow,to avoid problems. One rule is to keep your instruction booklet handy at all times.Plus a tech's phone number. The following are problems that I learned through trial and error.Mainly because I couldn't find my instruction book or my tech.s phone number. Note:Whenever I solve a problem I write it down and place it on my computer.I also found my instruction book and placed that on my computer too. #1-Dribbles- This problem drove me nuts for a whole day. I tried everything I could think of,till I placed a few drops of W-D 40 on the fluid rod,which solved the problem. The problem was that the fluid rod was sticking,and the oil loosened it up. #2- Dusty Finish- This problem was caused by dust in the air while I was spraying.So here is how to avoid it. I my case just before I was ready to spray,I put the exhaust fan on and with a air hose I blew off all the area where I was to be spraying. BUT !!! I didn't wait long enough for the dust to settle. So now I wait an hour after blowing all the dust out before spraying. Also tack cloth before you spray will help. #3- Gun would not spray right away,after taking a break. Problem was caused by a build up of finish at the tip. Problem was solved by removing the cap and pressing the trigger slightly to blow out the build up and then wiping the tip with lacquer thinner. Also when I am done for the day I remove the cap and ring and soak it in lacquer thinner.Next time I want to spray,the gun is clean and ready to spray. Got a spray problem? e mail me and I will do my best to help you. ========================================================== To view my Newsletter Archives,click link below http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/index/nlbi1.htm ===================================================== To Subscribe to my web site click link below http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/sub.htm ========================================================== Any referrals would be appreciated Regards, Phil http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/ The Furniture Doctor Newsletter Date = 11/23/2001 Subject: Tips Dear Subscribers, #1-Here is a tip on how to protect your floors from scratches made from draging your chairs. Clean the bottoms with a scrapper or knife,then wax them with a paste wax like bowling alley wax. Your chairs will glide along the floor,leaving no scratches. Inspect the bottoms every six months or so,and clean and wax them again. You can do the same with your table legs. ============================================== #2-To keep legs of chairs and tables clean when stripping,etc,drive screws into the bottoms of the legs. ==================================================================== #3-When applying your finish,put on several thin coats,instead of heavy coats.Thin coats will sand easier.This is true for brushing as well as spraying. ======================================================================= #4-When staining pine,use a wood conditioner to controll the penitration. In a pinch you could use paint thinner.Just apply the thinner just before putting on your stain.Let the thinner soak into the wood for a few seconds before applying the stain.For more info.on working with Pine,check out my report on Finishing Pine. ===================================================================== #5-If your spray cap gets a build up,DO NOT try to clean it with a sharp pointed object,instead soak it in lacquer thinner till your ready to spray again,brush it with a soft brush and blow off the thinner before putting it back on the gun. ==================================================================== NOTIC: To Paid Webscribers.- I just finished my latest Illustrated Project Report.This Report is on Rushing Chairs,with 24 Illustrations. To view report go to my password protected area and enter your user name and password.Thank You for your support. ==========================================================

The Furniture Doctor Newsletter
Date = 12/10/2001

Subject: Repairing broken rungs on chairs.

Here is a new technique to repair rungs that

broke off where they enter the leg.

First dig out most of the broken rung in the leg 

using a awl.The reason is there may be nails present.

Drill out the remainder.

Drill a pilot hole in the center of the rung,then insert

a one inch screw,leaving just 3/8 to a 1/2 inch exposed.

Next fill the hole in the leg with hot glue.

Next put the joint together,working fast.

Hot glue dries pretty fast.

Clamp the joint with a web clamp,

Also use a pipe clamp if you have one.

NOTE: You can also use auto body filler.

It is a matter of preference.

Make sure the joints are clean before gluing.

NOTE: Use the tan colored glue sticks,they are stronger.

NOTE: Use the proper size drill bit,or you may risk 

splitting the rung if the bit size is to small.

Test on a scrap piece of wood,if you are not sure.

NOTE: You should check out all the other joints

under the seat,and glue these also.

NOTE: Wax the screw threads, to make them go in easier.

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