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2/22/2001

I see a lot of chairs come into my shop
that someone has glued before.

If the joints are all disfigured, and ruined
it's going to either cost extra to repair
or the regluing is a waste of time.

If you can't do it right,
don't do it at all. BECAUSE.......
It's going to cost you more in the long run.

While I'm on the subject of chairs.
Chairs made of teak wood, do not glue well.
This is because of the oil in the wood.

Also chairs with only four legs for support
with out any leg bracing( or rungs) do not
hold up as well as chairs with extra bracing
or rungs.

I have refused many jobs because of butchered
repairs to chair joints.

I would suggest before you attempt to reglue
any chairs to read up on it first.

You don't want to learn by trial and error.
Then have to pay extra to have a pro do it.!!!

Consider my guide to regluing chairs.
It will teach you the correct way.

I write these reports so you won't
have to learn the hard way.

Take advantage of my mistakes.

2/30/2001

Here is one more tip on making your glue last longer.

It's so simple I wonder why I never thought of it before.

Just turn your glue bottle upside down and place it in

a container or holder to support it.



This will keep the air out and keep your glue fresh till

your ready to use it.

**********************************************************

Where do you get your glue brushes???????

I get mine from Leichtung Workshops

144 pieces for under $15.00 is a great deal

Plus if you clean them, it may be the first and last time

you will need to order glue brushes.

They are also good for other uses.

Their number is 1 800 321 6840

Ask for a catalog.
************************************************************

If your near a lumber mill you may be able to get sawdust or

shavings free.

You can use this to spread over your piece to help pick up the old wet

finish, in place of rags or steel wool.

When your ready to remove the old finish, just sprinkle the sawdust

or shavings over the piece and work it in.

When your done just sweep it up and store it till the next job.

You can reuse it over and over again, till it doesn't absorb any longer.

It's easier to dispose of also, and it does help to mask off the odor.

This Tip is intended to be the first step in removing the finish.

You still need to go further then this, but at lease you will

have most of the old finish off, and there will be less of a mess

reaching your final goal.
*****************************************************************

Ever wonder what you would save by refinishing your own furniture ???

Check it out  here

3/7/2001

This issue I will discuss Proper Lighting.

To do a good job, you need to see what your doing.

This holds true in all aspects of refinishing.

I'll tell you the technique I use and you can adapt it

if you want to.

When I first started this business, I made a lot of mistakes.

And I had to learn by trial and error.

I use to place the piece of furniture I was working with on

a work table, and moved around the table as I worked.

One of the biggest problems I discovered was I did not have enough

lighting.

There were to many shadows.


Well I solved that problem, and here is what I come up with.

I built a four foot round lazy Susan, and placed it on my work

table, and now I place ALL my work on this lazy susan.

Next I Bought two quarts lights on stands, and placed them in

back of me, about five to eight feet apart, and about four to six

feet away from my work table.

You can adjust them as needed.

Now when I work on a piece, using the lazy Susan, and the lights in back of
me

I can see clearly, and I just rotate the furniture around as I work.

There are no more shadows.

With the over head lighting that I already had, it works great.

My work table is two and a half feet high, and it's on wheels.

The turn table is made of 3/4"regular plywood.

I cover the top with cardboard and just tack it on.

When it gets to dirty, I replace it with a new covering.

I have added new reports, and new prices to my website,

including FREE legal forms, check it out.

http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/index.htm

3/15/2001

Tip on glue containers.

I use a lot of glue, and I'm always loosing the tip to the container, plus
I find the end of

the glue bottle always gets a glue build up. Plus the hole always gets
plugged up.

It's a real pain.


Well I have tried using a regular plastic mustard container as a glue
bottle, and found it to

work great.

Plus I no longer have a glue build up and I never loose the tip.

Try it!! I know you will use it too !!!


If you use Gorilla Glue or plan on trying it, here's a tip for you.

I have been using it for six weeks now and at first I did not like it.

I just had to get use to it.

The glue expands quite a bit, and I found that if you wait till the glue
hardens up,it"s

easier to remove and with NO MESS!!

After gluing the joint, try applying a little Vaseline around the
joint, the glue won't stick

to it, and you can remove the excess by inserting a sharp blade between
the wood and the

excess glue and pry off the excess glue.

If you need a extra strong glue, then you should really try this gorilla
glue. I use it 80% of

the time, and it only takes a little to get the job done.


If you have a tip or experience please share it with others by posting
it on my forum.

March/22/01

Hand Caning.



Hand Caning can cost you anywhere from $70.00 to $85.00

and up.


Need a better price?


Find out if there are Work shops for the blind located

in your area.


Here in Chicopee,MA. The work shop for the blind is

located in Springfield,and they charge

around $40.00 to $45.00 to hand cane a chair.


You may have to wait a little longer to get

your chair back, BUT !! You can't beat the price!!!!


An other outlet is Prisons!!

If your located near a prison, They will cane the chair

for even less. Probable $20.00 to $30.00,or less.


You could always take a course at your local school!!

Then you just have to buy the cane.


I got to tell you, It's VERY time consuming,

But very relaxing to some people.


In this is something you choose to do yourself,

check out http://www.wsi-dist.com

They carry the caning supplies.


I believe some workshop for the blind shops,and prisons

also do chair rushing,

You might want to check that out too....
*******************************************************

Glazing..


I've gotten a lot of e mail on the subject.

Glazing is a thick stain,or paint that has many uses.


Glazing can be used to highlight furniture.

Anytime you see a piece of furniture that has different color

highlighted, usually in the detail work of the furniture,that different

color is applied using glazing stains.


Glazing comes in six different colors,and sometimes are used

by re finishers to touch up and cover defects.


The technique to using glazing is to first (usually) seal the wood.

Then apply the glaze with a brush and cloth.


Wipe off the glaze with a cloth,leaving some on in the detail

area of your work.


Take off only as much as you want to get the effect that

you desire.

In you mess it up!!!!

Do it again!!! till satisfactory results are obtained.


I will be writ ting a more detailed step by step report

on glazing in the near future,and in your interest,you may

purchase a copy on my web site.
***********************************************************

I have added four new reports on my site,that may interest you.

They are...

Finishing Pine Furniture.

Finishing Oak Furniture.

Stripping Furniture ( Dressers-Tables-and Chairs)

My Re finishers Diary -

And a GUEST Book -( ALL feedback is welcomed.)...

If there is anyway I can make this web site better!!!

I want to know !!!!!!

Regards:

Phil

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/index.htm

3/30/2001

It's a beautiful day here,hope the weather is favorable for you also.

I have just finished a 13 page report on how to finishing pine.

It will be available on line soon.
________________________________________________________________

For those of you that are interested in promoting,marketing and

submitting, I found a site with loads of info on these subjects.

Check it out at http://www.selfpromotion.com

_____________________________________________________

Here are this issues tips

You know those wooden buttons that cover screws!!

You need to glue them in,or they won't stay.

O.K. !! So maybe you already knew that.

But what type of glue do you use ???

You don't need a strong glue,It's not a stress joint.

So I use WHITE elmers glue.

Mainly because it dyies water clear.

Makes a much neater job then a yellow glue.

Use the tapered buttons,they hold better,plus they are more

forgiving in case you drill a slitely larger hole.

Note:- Stain the buttons first,because if you happen to

get any glue on them,the stain won't penetrate.

I usually dip the buttons in a small container of stain,

and remove them with needle noise pliers.

Place them on a cloth,rub out the excess stain,and they

are ready to install.

Note:- If the button holes are to large,just load up the

button hole with the white glue,and press them in.

Wipe off the excess glue and your done.
____________________________________________________

Enlarged Screw holes.

Some times loading the hole with tooth picks isn't

the best solution,especially if the hole is extra large.

If this is the case your better off drilling the hole

out to a larger size and glue in a correct size dowel.

After the glue sets,

Re drill the hole the proper screw size.

Some times there are no quick fixes.
__________________________________________________

I have received many question on glazing,

of which I will cover in the next issue.

4/7/2001

My Newest Report Now Available

My Re finishers Diary includes

over 100 hints,refinishing rules,

trade secrets,and special reports.

You will be receiving information that took me

over 20 years of trial and error to perfect.

The following is what you will receive in my

Re finishers Diary.

1- The same rules that I use when refinishing furniture.

2- Trade secrets - Answers to questions like

1-How to remove water marks # 89

2- How to prevent water damage Rule # 61

3- How to remove scratches on maple furniture # 100

4- How to repair bubbled veneer #96

5-Using wipe-on stains Rule # 14

6-Stainning Pine Rule # 16

7-Using Cabinet Scrapers Rule # 25

8- Using penetrating stain Rule # 40

9- Sanding- How to keep from scratching your work Rule # 47

10- Applying finish Rule # 52 # 56

11-Mixing stains/finishers Rule# 53

12-Test that I use to make sure that my piece of furniture

is completely clean before I stain. Rule # 60 Rule # 58

13-How to avoid tacky finish Rule # 59

14-Restoring cedar closets # 74

15-Nail polish spilt on table ?? # 84

16-Regluing chairs! Where do you start?? # 85

17-Cleaning black lacquer furniture ?? # 86

18- How to make your unused container

of finish last longer # 91

19-What I add to my finish to remove it's odor # 93

20-Removing odors from your shop # 92

21-Worn out screw holes ?? 94

22-Cleaning chrome # 101

23-Tip on refinishing kitchen cabinets

Where do you start # 95

24-Removing Paint-Read this before you start # 104

25-Stripping NEW kit.cab.Tip #105

26-Broken bed solution # 107

27-How to clean antiques # 110

29-What to use to remove shellac/lacquer/varnish/

paint/milk paint/ # 111

30-The best way to remove a broken dowel,with out

damaging the joint. # 112 Special Report

31-Furniture buying tips -With answers to

questions you should know ahead of time.

With over 20 years experience I know what

to look for and now armed with this information !!!

SO WILL YOU.!!! #113 Special Report.

32-Rushing chairs - Some tips that will help

you # 114 Special Report

There are rules that I follow when refinishing furniture that I will pass
along to you.

The first rule to follow before stripping a piece of furniture is to wash
it down

with paint thinner.

Repeat at lease three times,

Use clean cloths each time

This will remove any wax and most of the dirt.

This step helps prevents the wax from getting into the wood,which will
then be harder to

remove.

=============================================================================================

Have you tried the new Gorilla Glue??

They advertise it to be the toughest glue on planet earth.

Well!! To each his own!!

I tried it and found it to be hard to clean up.

I guess it takes some getting used to.

$15.00 for an 8 once bottle is pretty high.

I use it mostly for joints that don't show.

If you use it! Let me know what you think of it!!

==================================================

Here is a tip on installing pressed cane.

After getting the cane into the grove,I cut it off right in the grove.

Cut it about a 32 nd of a inch from the surface.

Use a new blade in your utility knife.

Blow out the grove to remove any small pieces of cane that may of

landed in the grove,apply your (WHITE GLUE) in the grove,

and install your spline.

I use white glue because it dries clear.

================================================

Got a question!! Or a problem with your refinishing project?

Post it on my forum,and I'll answer a.s.a.p.

Best Regards;

Phil M Beaudet

http://thefurnituredoctor.net

4/15/2001

Stripping Paint

Possible problems
*************************

If the piece was painted originally by the manufacturer,you may run into
problems



Problem #1

The manufacture wasn't that particular in the grade of wood used to

make that piece.

Why should he,if its going to be painted!!

That's a problem for YOU if you plan on refinishing it.

You may find mixed grades and types of wood,or even wood filler

to conceal defects.



Problem #2

Depending on the type of wood.

The paint may come off very hard.

You may end up having to bleach out stains.

You may end up with heavy sanding as a last resort.

On oak and mahogany the paint will be imbedded right into the grain.

Maple should be easier to work on.

Pine?? The toughest of all to work on.



Problem # 3

If the piece has veneer!!!

The stripper may attack the glue.

This is true especially if you have it dipped in a hot dip tank.

Also if you decide to strip the veneer your self,you may find

the veneer breaking apart while you are are trying to remove the paint.
************************************************************************

Note: If the piece has varnish underneath the paint,then the paint will

come off easier,because the varnish will have stopped the paint

from direct contact with the wood also from filling the pores of the wood.


Note: If the piece had varnish missing in areas,and someone painted the
piece,

then the paint will be in direct contact with the wood in these areas,

making it difficult to remove.
***********************************************************************
***********************************************************************

REMOVING PAINT

1- Cabinet scrapers

Cabinet scrapers are pieces of metal that come in different shapes.

They can be sharpened with a file,and burnished with a burnishing tool.

A good quality set will last a life time.

I have used cabinet scrapers to strip paint right down to the wood.

Once you get the hang of it,it goes pretty fast.

If you would like to try cabinet scrapers and you can't find them

go to http://www.constaintine.com

They may also have instructions.
******************************************************************

2- DIP TANKS

Dip tanks will remove most every type of paint.

A cold tank is pretty save,if the piece is not left in to long.

If the piece has veneer,and the veneer is loose in areas,the veneer

may curl or break off.

Also if the piece id dipped the stripper may raise the grain.

Other then that,a cold tank is pretty save.

A hot tank I would stay away from.

A hot tank WILL attack the glue.
*******************************************************************

3- Heat Guns and torches

They will remove paint BUT you will need to final strip with

a chemical stripper.

Personally- I would stay away from.

Heat guns would be good as a starter if your stripping a door with

many coats of paint.BUT the fumes can be deadly,especially

if the paint is leaded paint.

I suggest you take it to a pro strip shop.
*******************************************************************

4- Chemical strippers

This would be my choice.

There are many chemical strippers to pick from.

Ask for the strongest stripper that is available,and take safety

precautions just follow directions.
******************************************************************

5- Glass

Old timers used to use glass to strip off the finishes.

They would keep breaking the glass till they came up with a

piece that was the right shape.
**************************************************************

Tips 4/30/2000
*********************************************

I have added a three page report on stripping dressers

to my web site.

Check it out.

Go to my web site and click on sneak Peak!
***************************************************

Here is a tip on re gluing chairs.

Where do you start?

I Start with the bottom.

Take the chair,and place it on a table up side down.

Clamp the chair to the table.

Make your repairs,if any!

Glue your legs.

Let the glue dry.

Take the clamp off.

And your half done.

Now!! use a web clamp and clamp the chair up right

to the table and do the top!!

It works for me!!!
******************************************************

Cleaning Black Lacquer Furniture.

Try a solution of strong tea.

Buff with a clean cloth.
*****************************************************

Chair legs wobble!!

Try adding a spacer under the glides.

You could use tape,or even a washer.

Plug the hole with a tooth pick and

drive the chair glide back in.
********************************************************

Paint thinner as an all around cleaner?

Yes!! I use it all the time.

It will remove dirt and wax build up.
********************************************************

Denatured alcohol - What is it good for !!

Well I use it for many reasons.

For one thing ! I use it to remove water marks.
*********************************************************

Stripping Problem !!!

How do you clean out the holes in draws that the screws

go through to hold the knob or pulls ?

I use pipe cleaners.
*****************************************************

How to make your container of finish last longer!!!

Try dropping marbles in,till the finish comes to the

top on the container,then go ahead and put the top on.

This will get rid of all the air.
******************************************************

Here is a tip for heavy smokers!!!

Since I am a heavy smoker,I tried many ways to remove

smoke odor from my shop.

I spilt some vinegar by accident and noticed that

I couldn't detect any smoke odor.SO!!!!!!

I pour some vinegar in a shallow container and place it

out of the way, and so far it works.

There probably other ways to remove smoke odors

If you know of any !! Let me know...

I'm always trying different things.
******************************************************

Speaking of odors !!

I use vanilla extract in my finish when I spray.

Just a few drops will do it.

Hey ! It works !!

And it doesn't harm the finish.

AND- I don't get any complaints from the neighbors
***************************************************

NOTE:- If you have any tips you would like to share !

Drop me an e mail at webmasters@thefurnituredoctor.net

******************************************************

5/7/2000

Tips From The Furniture Doctor
*******************************************************

The following information is a sample article from my guide

to buying furniture



Beds:

Note: If your in the market for a new bed,consider buying

one that comes with a metal rail support system.


Many times I have had customers bring in beds that were

broken where the rails fit into the head board and foot boards.

I use to repair them,but now I don't bother with these types

of repairs,Because beds take a lot of abuse,and the repairs just

don't last.

So I Tell all my customers to consider replacing the present support

system with a metal rail system.

They come adjustable and with wheels, and have installation plates

where you can install your head board and foot board to.

If you shim your head board and foot board up off the floor a little

all the stress will be on the support system only.

The good part about this metal rail system is,it should last a long time.

I have had one for over 20 years,and never had a problem.

Where do you get them?

Call your local bedding supply house or any where that sell furniture.
***************************************************************************

Sticky draws!!

I have tried soap,to make the draws slide easier,BUT I find candle wax

to work much better.
****************************************************************************

Candle wax also works better then soap when driving in screws.
**************************************************************************

Loose joints!!

I am sure that you have seen those adds that claim to work on loose joint!

Chair Lock is one of the products that I am referring to.

Well!!!!!! It doesn't work for me.

Some times there just isn't any quick fixes.
***************************************************************************

Many people love to wax their furniture.

Well it does offer some protection BUT!

You should remove the wax every so often,or else your just creating
problems

down the road.

Personally I don't believe in waxing furniture,BUT!!

If you are one that loves to wax your furniture I would recommend using

FORMSBE Products.I think it's probable one of the safest products
available.
*****************************************************************************

Furniture made of particle board with a plastic laminate top!!!

When your putting together this type of furniture DO NOT use a drill.

Use a screw driver,and drive your screws in slowly,OR you may risk

driving the screws right through your top.

Driving the screws by hand offers you better control.
***************************************************************************

Storing files

Don't just throw them in a draw,cut up some old water hose,and place them

in these to keep them working right.If you have to,cut the hose length wise

to make them fit.

You can do the same thing with your wood chisels.
***************************************************************************

Here is a tip on stripping/refinishing chairs or tables or any else

that has legs.

Drive a nail at the bottom of the legs,to keep them up and away from

the work table.OR you could use screws!!

Remember to pre-drill first!! If you use screws,or if there is no hole

there to begin with.
***************************************************************************

5/15/2001

Shopping for a kitchen set

Things to consider.


Chairs:- Construction:

Look for nails in the joints.

If there are any! I wouldn't buy them.




Look for spaces around the joints.

Again!! I wouldn't buy them.



Solid oak or maple would be my choice


I would pick chairs with at lease 3 to 6 rungs,attached to the legs

to hold everything tight.

Chairs with out rungs need to depend on one joint only.

They will not last as long,


Stick chairs opposed to spindle chairs.

I would pick stick chairs,they will stay together longer.

Spindle chairs have more parts that can loosen up sooner.


Colored finishes opposed to natural finishes.

Many chairs as well as other type of furniture have a colored

finish.

This means that the color is mixed with the finish and is sprayed on the
top of the wood

and doesn't penetrate into the wood.


A penetrating finish is applied differently.

First the light sealer coat is applied,to control the penetration

of the stain.

Then the stain is applied,to add color.

Then the top coats (3 to 6) are applied to seal in the color.

This finish will last longer.( If you can find it).


The table:

Again- Pick a good hard wood


The top

I would lean towards FORMICA

Veneer top? If it's done right should last,BUT!!! I Would stay

away from it.

I would pick a solid wood top.


The leaf adjusters underneath your table top that allow you to install

your extra leafs if you have them, should have metal gears,NOT WOODEN

slide type style.-- These won't last as long


Finishes:

There are many new finishes available.

It's hard to keep up with them.

Just make sure that you get you guarantee in writing.

Conversion varnish - Would be a good choice.



Note: Advertising lingo:

When they tell you that the furniture has selected hard wood

or cherry or walnut finishes, IT DOSN"T mean that it is made of

cherry or walnut wood,IT MEANS that they are referring to the

finish it's self ONLY!!!!



Check underneath the legs of the chairs and table.

What is there for glides???

Sometimes you will find metal or plastic glides.


Sometimes these glides will mar your floor,depending

on what kind of floor you have.

If you have a problem with the glides marring your floor?

Take them off and clean and sand the ends of the legs

and wipe with paint thinner and just wax them.

This will protect both your floor and furniture.


Inspect the legs once a year and clean and wax again.


Need more tips on buying furniture?

Purchase my guide to buying furniture

It's loaded with tips that will help you make the right decision.

5/22/2001

Stripping conversion varnish.

Conversion varnish is used on newer furniture,mostly on kitchen cabinets.

It is very difficult to remove.

You need to keep working at it.

Chances are you will end up scrubbing it off,and stripping it

more then once.

It will be a experience that you will not want to experience

again.

Stripping conversion varnish is best left to a pro.stripping shop.

If your piece is fairly new,!!!! do your self a favor.

Test in a inconspicuous area to see how the stripper will work.

If the finish remains tacky!! or slippery,It's probably conversion varnish.

******************************************************************

If you are about to refinish one lone chair,that doesn't belong to

a set or doesn't match any thing,BUT you want to duplicate the same

color,here is what you do.

Turn the chair up side down and strip under the seat.

Apply different stains to this area till you find one that matches

the original color,then you can go ahead and strip the chair.

********************************************************************

Broken Bed solution-

Instead of trying to repair a broken rair support on your head or foot

board,why not get your self a metal rail support system.

They come adjustable to fit any size bed,and it will relieve all

stress from your head board and foot board.PLUS it will last a life time

Call or visit your local bedding outlet supplier and see for your self.

**********************************************************************

Need a small clamp in a hurry???

Try a clothes pin it makes a excellent small clamp.

***********************************************************************

Computer Tip.....

My computer is located in my shop,which gets pretty dusty at times.

I use to cover it with a plastic covering to keep it clean.

Well!!!! I was told NOT TO cover it because the computer has to breath.

And by covering it would trap the heat.I guess I wasn't so smart!!!

SO!!! I ended up inclosing my computer area completely from all the dust.

*********************************************************************


To clean antiques or old wooden furniture that has a dull or discolored

SHELLAC finish,use a solution of equal parts mineral oil,turpentine,

and white vinegar.

Rub the solution in with a sponge,then wipe it off with a clean rag.

As you work,continually stir or shake the solution to keep it well mixed.

***********************************************************************

Have a question,or a solution to a problem!!

Please post on my forum and share with other viewers.

**********************************************************************

5/30/2001

Restoring cedar closets.

If your closets no longer smell like one,lightly sand it's surfaces.

Sanding opens the wood's pores and restores cedar odor.
****************************************************************

Prevent paint spatter.

When replacing the lid on a can of paint,drape a cloth over the lid,

then hammer the lid back on.
***************************************************************

Painting draw knobs.

Remove them from the dresser and set them screw end down into empty

soda bottles.

Spray paint,or paint with brush.

No missed spots or painted fingers.
******************************************************************

Removing paint on clothes.

Use Pine-sol or any pine base cleaner on clothes spotted with

dried-on latex enamel paint.

Apply it directly to each spot,then wash.
******************************************************************

Removing Mildew from wood.

Wash the wood one or more times with a solution of

2/3 cup of trisodium phosphate

1/3 cup of detergent

1 quart of house hold bleach

Enough water to make a gallon

Caution; Wear rubber gloves
*******************************************************************

When moving furniture around,(especially large pieces) make sure that all

four legs touch the floor at the same time.

This prevents the frame from twisting,which weakens wood and joints.
*******************************************************************

If your wooden chairs are in a room with wax floors,scrape off the bottoms

of the chairs feet and apply wax to the bottoms,so that they will

slide easily along the floor.

This protects both the chair and the floor.

Check the bottom of the chair's feet every so often.

Clean off dirt with paint thinner,and apply more wax.
********************************************************************

Notice to subscribers;

Over the years I have collected a large file of helpful hints

on other subjects NOT related to refinishing.

I would like to include them in my regular news letter.

New topics will include everything from home repairs,home improvements.

computer related,home work shop,my personal experience,and every thing

in between.

Feed back would be appreciated
********************************************************************
June/3/2001
NEW-HELPFUL HINTS

From my personal files

Ever seen a computer charge?

If the weather is cold and dry,you can build up a charge of static

electricity just by walking around,especially on carpets.

A good shot of static electricity to your computer can cause it to crash.

So before you begin work,touch a door knob or metal cabinet-anything

metal will release the charge.

If static is a serious problem,consider in investing in a special

desk or floor mats that control static.

These are available from your computer stores or from mail order

computer supply companies.
*******************************************************************

When you stop working on your computer for a few hours,go ahead and

turn it off,even if you plan to return to it later in the day.

The heat build up from leaving it on will do more harm then the act of

turning the machine off and then on again.
********************************************************************

Printer help...

If you want your printer to last,be sure to use good quality paper

made for computers.

Cheaper paper made for copy machines tends to shed more dust,

which can shorten the printer's life.

Finer papers with a high rag content also sheds a lot of dust.

Save these to use with your fountain pen.
********************************************************************

From the files of The Furniture Doctor

Phil M Beaudet

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/

June 10/2001 

Table Of Removers


Shellac

Denatured alcohol. (Sold as "shellac solvent")

For gummier shellacs,used in the Victorian era,add

1 part lacquer thinner to 4 partts alcohol.

No rinse necessary.
===================================================

Lacquer.

Lacquer thinner will dissolve this quite easily.

Job will go faster if you add one part of

denatured alcohol to every four parts of lacquer thinner.

No rinse necessary before staining or applying new finish.
==========================================================

Varnish.

Best thing is a water-rinse paint and varnish remover

of the TTM-4 or stripeeze type.

Some varnishes are quickly and cleanly removed with a mixture

of half lacquer thinner and half alcohol.

Lye,ammonia and T.S.P will eat varnish but also darken

and chew up the wood underneath, so are not usually

used on a single layer or two of clear finish.
===========================================================

Paint.

For a single coat of ordinary paint,read as above

for varnish.

Enamel paint is just varnish with ground pigment in it.

( The enamel on kitchen stoves is actually a thin coat of

baked-on glass.)
=============================================================

Paint
(many layers)

Here we resort to strong chemicals.

Lye is first- It will turn wood brown,and will raise fibers

on the surface,and must have a final rinse with vinegar to

stop the action of the lye in the wood.Also T.S.P.a milder

version of lye.
===============================================================

Milk Paint.

Ammonia works better then anything else on these,regardless

of cost.

Be prepaired for unpleasant fumes.

Also turns wood dark,but oxalic solution will bleach quickly.

Then just rinse with water.
=================================================================

Linseed Oil.

Reads the same as varnish.
=================================================================

NOTE:- All of the removers mentioned above are commonly available

through paint,hardware,and grocery stores.

There aren't any secret chemicals.

It's just knowing what to use,and when.
================================================================
Answers to last issue

#1-Before stripping
#2-Wipe with paint thinner
#3-Pack the joint with veneer
#4-Drill out the dowell and install a new one
==============================================


If you spilt Nail polish on table.

Here are your options:

#1- You can hire a touch-up pro.to touch-up the spot.

If he's any good he should do a good job of repairing the

missing finish.

This should cost you anywhere from $25.00 to $50.00.

========================================================

#2- You can have the top refinished by a pro.

Most re finishers charge from $20.00 to $30.00 a square foot.

If you can figure out the square feet,X what ever they charge,

you would know what they would charge you for the job.

=========================================================


#3-You could touch it up your self.

Touch-up is a trade by it's self.

It's not an easy thing to do,without guidance of some type.

The suggestion I am about to give you for touch-up

is NOT what a pro would use.BUT it will give you results.

To do your own touch-up....Purchase a small can of OIL STAIN

as close to the color of your table as possible.

DON'T shake the can......Wrap a cloth around your finger and tap

it into the damaged area.

Repeat till satisfied results are obtained.

NOTE: - If you can't get the spot dark enough!

Stick a screw driver or small thin stick down

to the bottom of the can to pull up the thick

pigments.

Use this to tap into the damage area.

NOTE:- You may have to play around with this till

you get satisfactory results.

If you don't like the results!! Wipe it off and

start over again.


When you are satisfied with the repair job!!

Cut a hole in a newspaper the size of the damaged area

and lay over the table,exposing just the damaged area.

and tape the newspaper to the table.Also place weights

around the cut out,to hold the news paper from lifting

when your spraying.

With a spray can of shellac,lightly spray across the area.

Use light spray ONLY.

Lift newspaper to check results.

Repeat spray if needed.

Try to match the sheen of the table.

==========================================================

#4- Have a piece of PLATE GLASS cut to fit your table.

Plate glass comes clear and with different color tints.

If you want to try to hide the defected area,choose the

darkest tint.

If you want to still be able to see the grain of the

wood,choose the clear glass.

NOTE:- Some people choose to put pictures of their loved

ones under the glass,or even colorful leaves,or what ever

you choose.

Using the glass solution, you have extra options.

If you choose to put pictures or what ever under the glass!!!

You don't even have to touch up the damaged area.

Or!!!!! If you choose to touch up the damaged area,and it just

doesn't look right,You can conceal it by using tinted glass.

=============================================================

I hope you found this report helpfull.

For more available reports

click here

Saturday, 17 June, 2000

The Furniture Doctor Newsletter

In this issue you will find a series of questions pertaining to furniture
restorations.

Test your skills!

The answers will be revealed in the next issue.

Question # 1

When is the best time to re glue chairs that you plan on refinishing?

Answer:

Before stripping
After stripping
Before Staining
After staining
Before Finishing
After finishing

Which answer did you pick?
_______________________________________________________

Question # 2

You chairs don't need refinishing,but they do need to be re glued
So you re glued them.

My question is: How and when did you remove all the excess glue
that oozed out around the joints?

Answer:

I wiped it up with a dry cloth.
I waited the next day and scrapped it off.
I wiped it all off 20 minutes later with a dry cloth.
There was no excess glue to wipe off.
I wiped it up with denatured alcohol.
I wiped it up with lacquer thinner.
I whipped it up with paint thinner.
I whipped it up with mineral oil.


______________________________________________________

Question # 3

Your re gluing chairs and find that one or two joints fit very loose.
So the question is:

What do you do about it!

Answer:

Pack the joint with glue.
Wrap a cloth around the joint.
Wrap string around the joint
Nail the joint.
Pack the joint with sawdust.
Pack the joint with body filler.
Pack the joint with tooth picks.
Pack the joint with veneer.


_____________________________________________________

Question # 4

You find broken dowels
Question is what do you do about it.

Answer:

Drill a hole and put in a smaller dowel in the center of the broken one.
Install a mending plate to hold the joint together.
Install a screw through the joint.
Use the same size drill bit and drill out the old dowel,and put in a new
one.
_______________________________________________________

When stripping,the most difficult part is getting into the inside corners.

I usually use a small brush to work in the stripper.
A tooth brush,or small plastic brush will do the job.

Clean your brush often by wipping it across a stiff wire brush.

Lately I have been using a electric tooth brush and its been working out
great.

Wear eye protection,and a apron,to protect your self.

Use plenty of stripper,and have plenty of rags handy.

After you remove ALL the finish,clean up with clean rags,and plenty of
denatured alcohol.

Wipe dry with a rag with alcohol on it.

Try wrapping a rag around the small brush,to pull out any old finish.

Wait for the wood to dry,then inspect it.

Repeat if needed.

Welcome to My Tips From The Furniture Doctor

July/3/2001

Published once a month by
P.M.B. Publishing
Editor/Publisher: Phil M Beaudet, mailto:webmasters@thefurnituredoctor.net

http://thefurnituredoctor.net

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

2. Refinishing Sources EXCEL Polyurethane Glue

Waterproof glue ups...The ability to bond wood and virtually any other
material. For more info visit them online at http://www.excelglue.com

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

3. Refinishers Diary

Last week I took on a job involving stripping wood interior parts from a
boat.

The finish on the parts was Spar Varnish,on teak wood.
Let me tell you!Spar varnish is one tough finish to remove.
After applying the stripper,I ended up scraping off the finish with a
cabinet scraper.

Forget using only steel wool,(which is what I usually use).

Spar Varnish is also used on exterior doors,SOOOOOOOOOOO Point is Keep
this
message in mind.Plus!!! Get your self a supply of quality cabinet
scrapers.

If you have trouble finding them contact me.



---------------------------------------------------------------------------

4 . Tips & Techniques

When stripping try using sawdust or shaper chips to pick up the old
finish.You should be able to pick it up free at a Lumber Mill or any where
where they work on wood.
I have tried it,and it works fine.When your done,just sweep up the mess
and throw it away.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------


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If there is a way to improve this newsletter,send your comments to
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PHIL M BEAUDET
Publisher/Editor
PMB Publishing
Owner/CEO
The Furniture Doctor
Restoration Workshop
350 East Main St.
Chicopee,MA.01020
Phone#1 413 592 6925
Fax# 1 413 592 1969
webmasters@thefurnituredoctor.net/

http://thefurnituredoctor.ne/

t

Welcome to My Tips From The Furniture Doctor

July/21/2001

Published once a month by
P.M.B. Publishing
Editor/Publisher: Phil M Beaudet, mailto:webmasters@thefurnituredoctor.net

http://thefurnituredoctor.net

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mailing list, please see the instructions at the end of
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In This Issue
---------------------------------------------------------------------------


1. Feature Article
2. Refinishing Sources
3. Re finishers Diary
4. Tips & Techniques
5. Subscription Management
6. Feedback
7. Contact Information
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
1. Today's Feature Article

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/scraper.htm

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

2. Refinishing Sources

Back to Nature Products Co.has a new product that is worth consideration

Their Multi-Strip is a unique,environmentally safe paint and varnish

remover designed to remove 15+ layers in a single application.

It is biodegradable,nonflammable,contains no methylene chloride or

caustics.

Multi-Strip is virtually orderless,cleans up with water,and comes in brush-

on, spray-on,flow-over,and tipping formulations.

Contact Info.

Back To Nature Products Co.

1 800 211 5175

Fax (732) 409 1144

Web site http://www.backtonatureprod.com

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

3. Re finishers Diary

I often get e-mails from people who have started to refinish their kitchen

cabinets,then run into problems.

Folks!! I can't help you if the damage is already done!!

These people think they have all the answers,but when they get into trouble

they look for a way out!!

Folks!! The reason I wrote the report on Refinishing Kitchen Cabinets was

to avoid these problems...

If you don't do your research,you are going to run into problems.

There are all kinds of ways to botch-up a job.

I have people who have e-mailed me,who were upset because I couldn't help

them.These people Tried it on their own.

You have to use the right material.

You have to use techniques that work.

You can't guess.

Before I can help you,I have to know ahead of time just how you plan

on refinishing your cabinets.

The best way I know of is that if BOTH of us are following the same plan.

Unless you know more then I do about refinishing Kitchen Cabinets,

Lets use my plan.It Makes since to me!!

This $20.00 price for the report is just a test run.

I am not getting rich from it,so while I am at the testing stage,you should

take advantage of it.

Free e-mail one on one consultation for one full year

15 pages of the most detailed instructions you will ever find.

It is actually a training manual,backed up by 20 years experience!!

All this for $20.00!!!!!!!!

Even if the price was $200.00 It still would be a bargain.

I have read a few how to books in my day,NOTHING comes close to what I
have

to offer.

---------------------------------------------------------------------------

4 . Tips & Techniques

Did you know that yellow glue has a shelf life of one year?

How old is your glue!

If you don't use glue often,you are better off to purchase a small amount

at a time.


Tip--- Wax paper will protect your piece when gluing up.

Just apply between your wood and your clamp.

Glue wont stick to wax paper!

---------------------------------------------------------------------------


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5. Subscription Management
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TO UNSUBSCRIBE SEND BLANK E-MAIL WITH UNSUBSCRIBE IN
SUBJECT BOX
---------------------------------------------------------------------------
6. Feedback
If there is a way to improve this newsletter,send your comments to
<ahref="mailto:feedback@thefurnituredoctor.net"</a>



---------------------------------------------------------------------------
7. Contact Information
---------------------------------------------------------------------------

PHIL M BEAUDET
Publisher/Editor
PMB Publishing
Owner/CEO
The Furniture Doctor
Restoration Workshop
350 East Main St.
Chicopee,MA.01020
Phone#1 413 592 6925
Fax# 1 413 592 1969
webmasters@thefurnituredoctor.net

http://thefurnituredoctor.net

The Furniture Doctor Newsletter
August/4/2001

In this issue I will be talking about filling in defects,and the different

techniques that available.


#1- Wax fill in sticks - Good for scratches,and small dings,dents or nicks.

For scratches just rub across the scratch with the stick till it's full.

Wipe off the excess with a cloth.


For dings,dents or nicks,you can also try rubbing across the defect.

Or you may have to melt some into the defect with a burning tool,melting enough

to fill just above the surface,then shaving the excess off with a cabinet

scraper,or sandpaper.

Note if working with a finished piece,protect the surface with balm,

or paint thinner.
----------------------------------------------------------------------

#2- Lacquer sticks - Or Burn-in sticks - These have to be melted into

the defect.The surfaces need to be protected with balm also,plus

the excess need to be removed with the burn in tool.

This technique is a little more difficult to master.
__________________________________________________________________

#3- Wood puddy - This is easier to use,but harder to finish.

You can either use as is,apply it to the defect,sand down,then stain

to match.

Or color the puddy first then apply.

You can use regular stain,or aniline dye to add color.
__________________________________________________________________

#4 - Saw dust and white glue.

Sand in a inconspicuous area just to gather excess saw dust,and

mix in some glue,and use this as a filler.

Note;- Old timers have been using this technique for years.
______________________________________________________________

#5 - Boil up the defect with steam.

This technique will bring up the defect some times all the way back,

but not always !!!

How it's done !!

Some people place a wet cloth over the defect and run an iron

over it.Check it often for results.

Some times you can just drop water into the defect and place

the tip of a soldering gun into the defect,always making sure

to have water present on the defected area,till the defect rises

to the surface.DON"T LET IT DRY OUT.!!!!!
___________________________________________________________________

#6 - Hot Glue Gun.

YES ! You read it right !!

I discovered this technique by curiosity.

I just wanted to try it to see if it would work.

Last week I was working on a dresser top,that had a missing corner that

I had to rebuild about 1/8 inch deep by three inches long of missing wood.

Corners can be difficult to rebuild using other methods.

I glued a straght edge on both sides,and applied oil so the hot glue

would not stick.

Next I applied hot glue to the defect and let it cool off.

Next I removed the straght edges,and applied masking tape to the surounding 

finish area to protect the finish.

Next I started to reshape the hot glue,using a sharp knife,to remove

most of the excess.

Next I switched to some # 80 grit sand paper and removed the masking tape

and sanded the hot glue along with the rest of the molded edge of the

dresser top edge to draw some of the saw dust into the hot glue defected

area.

This automaticly added or draged color to the hot glued area,and blended

the hot glued damaged area perfectly.
__________________________________________________________________________

#7 - Sometimes you can cut out the damaged area,and replace it with new 

wood of the same species.Expecially of corners or edges of dresser tops.

Then you can reshape it and stain it to match.
____________________________________________________________________________

#8 - Surfaces - Some times you can use a plug cutter,to drill out a small

defect,and insert a plug,then plan off and stain to match.

Using this technique you would choose a wood as close to possible to matching

the color and grain of the defected area.

Plus you would use the surface of the wood to drill your new replacment plugs.
_______________________________________________________________________________

 

To receive FULL benefits click below

http://thefurnituredoctor.net/pp2.htm

The Furniture FREE Newsletter
Date = 10/28/2001
Issue#3009
Subject Regluing


Dear Subscribers,

In my business I get to do a lot of regluing,and I

Charge a pretty price to reglue,especially if the piece

has been reglued by a amerture,mainly because I have to

remove ALL of the old glue,which is very time consuming.

Most lay men do not understand that when regluing,you MUST

remove ALL of the old glue,or the joints will not hold up.

I prefer to scrape off the old glue.However there are other ways to 

accomplish this.A sharp pocket knife will do.

Sometimes Hot water and vinegar will dissolve it,but it is messy

plus you have to wait till the joint dries before you go any further.

I have tried all the different ways,and ended up dry scrapping.

You got to be carful to remove only the old glue and not the wood.

There are other chemicals out there that will also dissolve the old 

glue BUT again they are messy.

I sometimes use a file to finish up.

Also I use wire brushes pipe cleaners that the plumbers use to 

clean up the insides of their copper pipes.They work pretty good.Get

ALL the sizes,

You WILL use them all at one time or another.

If the joints fit loose !!! tighten then up by adding thin strips

of veneer or cut up your own.

Thread wrapped around the joint,don't work.

Those metal strips you see advertised are useless.

Till next Issue.

Happy Gluing.

 

===========================================================
To Subscribe to my web site click or high light link below

http://www.antique-furniture-restoration.com/sub.htm

==========================================================

Any referrals would be appreciated

Regards,
Phil
http://www.thefurnituredoctor.net/

The Furniture FREE Newsletter
Date = 11/06/2000

Subject: Working with gorilla glue

The first thing to do when working with gorilla glue is to READ the

directions.

It is not like other glues,if you do not apply it properly it will not

work correctly.

The directions say to apply glue to one part of the joint and to wet

the other part with water.

The water activates the glue and makes it expand,filling any gaps.

It is a very strong glue,but it does cost more,so store the container

upside down to preserve it.

As far as storing upside down!! this works for all stains,finishes,ect.

I discovered this by accident. Hey !! It works.

Because gorilla glue cost more,I mainly use it for joints that do not

fit correctly,like corner blocks found on some chair seats,or on stress

joints.

Wipe up with Denatured Alcohol.

When the glue hardens,it is easier to remove then regular glue.I just

scrape it off with a cabinet scraper.

I find that it also accepts a stain better then regular glue.

Till next issue:

Stay Well

11/17/2001

The Furniture Doctor Newsletter

Subject Spraying Tips.



Dear Subscribers,


This Issue is for those of you who spray.

There are rules to follow,to avoid problems.

One rule is to keep your instruction booklet

handy at all times.Plus a tech's phone number.

The following are problems that I learned through

trial and error.Mainly because I couldn't find my

instruction book or my tech.s phone number.

Note:Whenever I solve a problem I write it down and

place it on my computer.I also found my instruction book

and placed that on my computer too.



#1-Dribbles- This problem drove me nuts for a whole day.

I tried everything I could think of,till I placed a few

drops of W-D 40 on the fluid rod,which solved the problem.

The problem was that the fluid rod was sticking,and the oil

loosened it up.


#2- Dusty Finish- This problem was caused by dust in the air

while I was spraying.So here is how to avoid it.

I my case just before I was ready to spray,I put the exhaust fan on

and with a air hose I blew off all the area where I was to be spraying.

BUT !!! I didn't wait long enough for the dust to settle.

So now I wait an hour after blowing all the dust out before spraying.

Also tack cloth before you spray will help.


#3- Gun would not spray right away,after taking a break.

Problem was caused by a build up of finish at the tip.

Problem was solved by removing the cap and pressing the trigger slightly

to blow out the build up and then wiping the tip with lacquer thinner.

Also when I am done for the day I remove the cap and ring and

soak it in lacquer thinner.Next time I want to spray,the gun is clean

and ready to spray.

Got a spray problem? e mail me and I will do my best to help you.

This concludes part one of my newsletter archives

For part two click here

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